Trailing Arm Shims C2.....

[Larry S.]

I have lost some alignment shims ( '64 roadster) on the trailing arms so Ive got to have a realignment done. If after alignment (using the slotted shims) I drill and pin with the cotter keys supplied with the shim kit, will this cost me points in judging? If so, then is there another solution to stop these shims from falling out, assuming I use slotted shims?
Also,I checked my '66 coupe and they are working out too!

[Timothy B.]

Re: Trailing Arm Shims C2.....

Larry, If you are using the slotted shims, push the outer end down inside the frame before tightening the bolt. Tighten the bolt after the weight is on the tires and the shims will fit nicely and should not come out.

[Larry S.]

Re: Trailing Arm Shims C2.....

Thanks Tim,
I will do that. So I guess drilling isnt necessary and probably would not be original as far as NCRS judging is concerned?

[Michael W.]

Re: Trailing Arm Shims C2.....

I know of numerous cases of shims falling out despite being tucked in and tightened properly.

The judging deduction for a hole and cotter pin is minimal if any.

[Michael H.]

Re: Trailing Arm Shims C2.....

I know of numerous cases of shims falling out despite being tucked in and tightened properly.

The judging deduction for a hole and cotter pin is minimal if any.

This problem is usually caused by improper control arm front bushing installation. If the bushings are not compressed properly before the center tube is flaired, the shims will never stay in place because the front pivot bolt is only partially compressing the bushings.
The bushings are supposed to be compressed to their proper dimension when the tube is flaired. If not compressed to the proper dimension, the tube AND shims are allowed to move as the suspension goes through it's travel.

Very common problem.

[Alan D.]

Re: Trailing Arm Shims C2.....

The originals for 64 have the holes at each end - why not just use those?

The Trailing Arm & Support have 5/5 points and as mentioned the loss will be very small. Count up all the stuff in that group - that's divided (so to speak) into the points. I would expect a little note as NTP without a hit, but not a judge.

[Michael W.]

Re: Trailing Arm Shims C2.....

Very common problem.

Agreed Cranky, but in at least one case I know of the bushings had been installed properly.

BWTFDIK

Mikey

[Joe L.]

Re: Trailing Arm Shims C2.....

I have lost some alignment shims ( '64 roadster) on the trailing arms so Ive got to have a realignment done. If after alignment (using the slotted shims) I drill and pin with the cotter keys supplied with the shim kit, will this cost me points in judging? If so, then is there another solution to stop these shims from falling out, assuming I use slotted shims?
Also,I checked my '66 coupe and they are working out too!

Larry-----


I believe my 1969 was originally delivered with at least a few slotted shims in each side. However, assuming my memory is incorrect on this one, I am absolutely certain that it received some slotted shims the first time the rear end was aligned at Central Chevrolet. This occurred within a few years after I took original delivery. About 25-30 years ago, I changed ALL the shims to the slotted style.

My car never had cotter pins for shim retention (although it does have the holes in the frame for them), until fairly recently never had the shims tucked down into the frame pockets, and has 200,000 miles on it.

I have NEVER lost a shim.

[Joe T.]

Re: Trailing Arm Shims C2.....

You posted 12 years ago about a trailing arm(63) issue that I am now having. Passenger side shims have fallen out 3 times. you suggest that trailing arm bushing improper installation is the most common problem. do you still feel this way? I just bought a new bushing kit but removing and rebushing and re-installing trailing arms is too big a job for me.

[Joe L.]

Re: Trailing Arm Shims C2.....

You posted 12 years ago about a trailing arm(63) issue that I am now having. Passenger side shims have fallen out 3 times. you suggest that trailing arm bushing improper installation is the most common problem. do you still feel this way? I just bought a new bushing kit but removing and rebushing and re-installing trailing arms is too big a job for me.

Joe------


You can check to see if the bushings are properly installed but you pretty much need to have the trailing arms out of the car to do it. The bushing retainer (the tube that goes through the bushings) is flared on both ends. One flare is done when the retainer is manufactured. The other end is flared after the bushings and retainer are installed. The flares on both ends should appear the same with the flared ends fully covering the taper in the washers on either side of the bushings. If they appear this way, the bushings should be installed properly. There's no way to properly flare the retainer if the bushings are not fully pressed into the arm.