Turn Signal Switch

[Brawley M.]

I have installed new electric harnesses from Lectric Limited. The turn signal switch was purchased elsewhere. When the turn signal switch connector is not attached to its mating connector on the dash harness, the courtesy/dome lights function;however, when I plug the two connectors together, I hear a clicking noise (like a turn signal blinker), the courtesy/dome lights flash in sync with the clicking noise,the ammeter needle bounces, and none of the signal lights work when the turn signal lever is depressed. The flasher fuses are new and in the right slots. I removed the turn signal switch, and found the red wire which spans from the turn signal contact to the hazard contact to be crimped flat in two spots (smashed flat). This red wire shows continuity however. Could this wire be the source of my problem? Also, the hazards will flash when I engage the flasher button on the column. Any insight appreciated. Brawley

[Gerard F.]

Re: Turn Signal Switch

I have installed new electric harnesses from Lectric Limited. The turn signal switch was purchased elsewhere. When the turn signal switch connector is not attached to its mating connector on the dash harness, the courtesy/dome lights function;however, when I plug the two connectors together, I hear a clicking noise (like a turn signal blinker), the courtesy/dome lights flash in sync with the clicking noise,the ammeter needle bounces, and none of the signal lights work when the turn signal lever is depressed. The flasher fuses are new and in the right slots. I removed the turn signal switch, and found the red wire which spans from the turn signal contact to the hazard contact to be crimped flat in two spots (smashed flat). This red wire shows continuity however. Could this wire be the source of my problem? Also, the hazards will flash when I engage the flasher button on the column. Any insight appreciated. Brawley

Wow Brawley,
That sounds like a problem in the the harness, or in the switch The dome and courtesy lights with the hazard/cigar lighter are a completely different circuit then the stop and tail lights. The hazard flasher circuit, brake lights, and signal light circuits all go through the signal switch in the steering column and with the brakes and signal cuicuit distributed through the little cam on the switch. The hazard switch, when you push it in disconnects the signal circuit and then connects hazard circuit through direct wires in the switch to the front and rear lights.

Here is a schematic of the 67 signal switch:



Somehow I think that something is crossed in the harness or the switch whereby the courtesy lights are being backfed through the signal switch flasher or hazard flasher.

Do you have brake lights on the rear? If not, it is probably that the cam on the signal switch is screwed up. It could also be the hazard switch on the signal switch, or the wires at the harness connection for the switch in the wrong spots.

Do you have any problems with the signal switch before the harness change?

After changing 3 repro signal switches with problems on my 67, my guess is that it is something in the signal switch, or a simple misconnection somewhere (maybe at the signal flasher).

Hope this helps, electrical problems are frustrating.

[Gerard F.]

Re: Turn Signal Switch

Also, take a look at the second archived thread below for the culprit I found in my repro signal switch.

[Brawley M.]

Re: Turn Signal Switch

Gerard, Thank you for taking the time to post the schematic for the switch. I was able to score a NOS turn signal switch on ebay this morning, and I hope this will solve my issues. I figure that even though I paid more for it, the savings in time,cost,& frustration will make it worth every penny. Thank you again for your help and expertise. Brawley

[Gerard F.]

Re: Turn Signal Switch

Brawley,

One thing I learned with my last replacement switch which might be the key to their longevity and proper operation is this:

Don't use the original screw which holds the signal lever onto the cam on the repro switch, especially if you are using your original lever (which is thinner then repro's)

The original screw is too long and is a 3/4" 8-32, self threading or has some sort of locking thread arrangement. On my last switch replacement (the USA made Shee-Mar one), I found that when I used the original screw, the lever was too loose fore and aft, I just couldn't get the screw to tighten down enough. On my previous replacement switches, I could actually jiggle the lever fore and aft to get the signal light to work properly.

So with this last switch, I just used a regular 1/2" 8-32 screw with a #8 lock washer. The lever is nice and tight fore and aft, and it seems to hold the contact tangs on the cam to the contacts on the switch with a little pressure. You also hear that definite click when you pull the lever out of a turn without turning the wheel, like when the car was new.

Well, it has been about three weeks and 1200 miles with this new repro switch and everything seems to be working fine. But I'm keeping my fingers crossed They are a pain in the butt.

[Brawley M.]

Re: Turn Signal Switch

Gerard,
I'm on my way to Home Depot for #8 screws and L washers! My wife is convinced I have a love interest there, as I am always going there for fixtures on the car. Thanks again for all the helpful suggestions. Brawley