69 rear wheel stud

[Jim M.]

I have a right rear wheel mounting stud that was broken off when I got the car. Are these drifted in to the flange? And if so, where can I find a new one? If not, any advice on the best way to proceed repairing something like this. Guess I could cut off a proper thread 9?16ths bolt and weld it to the flange but that sure seems like a last solution.

[Jim T.]

Re: 69 rear wheel stud

Not an uncommon thing to happen when impact wrenches are used to tighten lug nuts, for your car I believe the torque is 75# for the rear and 65# for the front.
Anyway are rivets still retaining your rear disc to the spindle? This will make a difference on the repair.

[Chris W.]

Re: 69 rear wheel stud

I have a right rear wheel mounting stud that was broken off when I got the car. Are these drifted in to the flange? And if so, where can I find a new one? If not, any advice on the best way to proceed repairing something like this. Guess I could cut off a proper thread 9?16ths bolt and weld it to the flange but that sure seems like a last solution.

With the brake calaper and rotor removed, you can use a punch to remove the remaining piece of the stud. Insert the new stud thru the hole in the flange from the rear. Use a spacer such as a larger nut or a stack of flat washers over part of the stud that is sticking thru the flange and a good lug nut installed up-side-down. Tighten the lug nut to "Pull" the new stud into the flange.

Be sure to mark the location of the rotor relative to the hub so it can be installed the exactly in the same position it was before you removed it.

Also, use anti seaze or good lube on the lug nut when "Pulling" the new stud in place.

You will have to drill out the rivets if your rotor is rivited to the flange.

You may have to rotate the flange to find a position where you can "Fish" the new stud into the flange. There are parking brake parts in the way that you will have to work around.

Actually, this is not a real big job, especially if the rotor is not rivited to the flange of the hub.

I would not try to weld something to the flange.

I hope this helps.

Chris

[Jim M.]

Re: 69 rear wheel stud

Jim, I believe the rivets are still in place.

[Jim M.]

Re: 69 rear wheel stud

Chris, any idea where I could find a new stud? I tried my local Chevy dealer and they looked up the part number but said it was discontinued. jim

[Michael H.]

Re: 69 rear wheel stud

Chris, any idea where I could find a new stud? I tried my local Chevy dealer and they looked up the part number but said it was discontinued. jim

Try a good parts store like Car Quest, if they stock Dorman hardware you should be able to get it.

MIke

[Gary R.]

Re: 69 rear wheel stud

You can find the studs most places. The studs have a kurl on the shoulder that cuts into the flange and holds it in place. They can be drive out but you'll find the parking brake in the way, removing them is more of a hassle then installing the stud! With the shoe on one side removed, I would block the back of the flange so any impact isn't going to shock the bearings. Then you can drive out the broken stud. Get (1) 7/16-20 nut,a spacer, and a flat washer. Place the stud through the flange and align it with the hole as square as you can. Place the spacer,could be a 1/2 nut just something to clear the stud threads, grease the washer and place it on the spacer,screw the nut on and draw it into the flange until seated. Install the parking brake shoe. Enjoy the car.
FYI, as long as you're not hammering the car hard you can drive with 4 studs without much fear of the wheel falling off.

Here is an 82 arm I did for a fellow corvetter so you can see what you have to work with once you get the rotor off.


Here is top view from another arm I did


When I build HP 31 spline axles I usually step up to 1/2-20 ARP studs. Some guys want stock length studs so I machine them to size. Here is a stock stud and machined ARP. You probably don't need the ARP stud but here is what a good stud should look like.

[Jim T.]

Re: 69 rear wheel stud

Jim, I believe the rivets are still in place.

Jim if you have not replaced the broken stud and rivets still retain the disc rotor to the spindle as installed from the factory you could just wait until you remove the spindle to service the rear wheel bearings. If your rear wheel bearings have never been serviced, after 41 years they may very well need attention. Since special tools are needed to remove and service the rear wheel bearings the complete control arm can be removed and sent to www.bairs.com for rebuild. For many miles and years of driving you will not have be concerned about this control arm/wheel bearings after Bair's rebuilding.

[Joe L.]

Re: 69 rear wheel stud

Chris, any idea where I could find a new stud? I tried my local Chevy dealer and they looked up the part number but said it was discontinued. jim

Jim-----


The GM studs are discontinued. Use Dorman 610-259 or Dorman 98048. Both Dorman numbers are the same; only the packaging is different.

[Michael H.]

Re: 69 rear wheel stud

You can find the studs most places. The studs have a kurl on the shoulder that cuts into the flange and holds it in place. They can be drive out but you'll find the parking brake in the way, removing them is more of a hassle then installing the stud! With the shoe on one side removed, I would block the back of the flange so any impact isn't going to shock the bearings. Then you can drive out the broken stud. Get (1) 7/16-20 nut,a spacer, and a flat washer. Place the stud through the flange and align it with the hole as square as you can. Place the spacer,could be a 1/2 nut just something to clear the stud threads, grease the washer and place it on the spacer,screw the nut on and draw it into the flange until seated. Install the parking brake shoe. Enjoy the car.
FYI, as long as you're not hammering the car hard you can drive with 4 studs without much fear of the wheel falling off.

Here is an 82 arm I did for a fellow corvetter so you can see what you have to work with once you get the rotor off.


Here is top view from another arm I did


When I build HP 31 spline axles I usually step up to 1/2-20 ARP studs. Some guys want stock length studs so I machine them to size. Here is a stock stud and machined ARP. You probably don't need the ARP stud but here is what a good stud should look like.

Great pictures I figured I would have to remove all of the e-brake stuff but that makes since just to pull one shoe. That's my project for tomorrow.

Thanks,
Mike

[Edward J.]

Re: 69 rear wheel stud

Mike, I wonder if you remove the bottom adjuster mechanism, will that give you enough room, removing the one shoe may turn out to be a real hassle for clearance reasons.