Frame paint sheen
I blasted my frame and put DP90 on it. I liked the sheen. It had what looked to me like just enough gloss without being to glossy. So after a little filling and sanding I put DP 90 on it again for a finish coat. Now it is to dull I think. I painted it early this morning when it was in the low 70s. Suppose to get to 90 today. I guess it could be the humidity. So should I paint it with something else or what? I don't want to get to thick with the paint. Any advice appreciated.
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Re: Frame paint sheen
In my opinion, the gloss level of DP90 is very close to the original gloss...it may be just slightly more flat than the original finish. Just so we're on the same page, cured DP90 has a satin or egg shell gloss after application in a wet coat. I'm not sure of the effect of humidity on its gloss level...the only way I ever got flatter gloss with DP90 was to spray it dry, e.g. behind obstructions, if you are careless, you can get a "shadow" of overspray that is dry and flat.
I say DP90 "may be" slightly flatter than original because, in my opinion, the gloss level of the frames varied from day to day. I have heard other reliable observers say frames were more glossy than what I saw in weather protected areas of my rust-free frame. If you happen to have a frame in very good condition, your best course is to match the gloss that you found in protected areas.
As far as adding another coat of DP90, I would say that you are already at risk of too much paint if you want it to look uncompromisingly original. Originally, the frames had one thin coat of paint. After two coats, you will begin to see accumulation around the weld splatter and loss of detail. I wrestled with this question during my frame restoration, and decided two coats maximum was necessary, originality not withstanding...one coat DP90, one coat acrylic enamel flattened to correct gloss. -
Re: Frame paint sheen
When I restored my first Corvette, 1965, I used PPG DP-90 for all metal priming. The PPG regional representative told me it must be covered by a top coat product. It will break down with exposer to the elements, especially to UV rays. I use a catalyzed urethane with flattening agent. I tried to achieve about a 40% sheen for the frame. I purchased a gallon of the black catalyzed urethane and mixed flattening agent for different sheens. This provided different gloss levels for all the black metal components and black-out process.
RayRay Carney
1961 Sateen Silver 270-HP
1961 Fawn Beige 315-HPComment
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Re: Frame paint sheen
I just went out and looked at it again. It is eggshell to me. The first coat was definatly had more gloss. I was actually suprised at that as I wasn't originally going to use the DP90 for the final finish. I am thinking about PPG Sash black lacquer that I have used on my Camaro inner fenders. My frame was pretty much brown but when I took it apart there were a few places that were covered that were still black and they were definately glossier than it is now.Comment
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Re: Frame paint sheen
Last time I checked frame finish was 1/5 of 13 points so I would start puting parts back on that frame and get-er-done. Don't dwell on the little things or a resoration will take ten years.Lyle
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Re: Frame paint sheen
Keith,
what you had happen is very common with epoxy paint. When you mix it the solids immediatly start to settle to the bottom of the can. So by the time you get everything ready to pour for mixing it you are mostly pouring out the binders along with some pigment (they are lighter that the solids) and then when sprayed will come out to a semi-gloss.
THEN when you go to spray from the same gallon (or quart) the second and third time you are mixing more of the solids and less of the binders. And when that dries it is much flatter. I learned this the hard way 20 years ago when DP first came out.
RichComment
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Re: Frame paint sheen
Hi Keith,
I'd think you could have different levels of gloss on the frames coming to the chassis line and perhaps even different levels of gloss on the same frame.
Not shiny... not flat! What sheen you have might be just right.
Regards,
Alan
71 Coupe, 350/270, 4 speed
Mason Dixon Chapter
Chapter Top Flight October 2011Comment
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Re: Frame paint sheen
That DP epoxy primer is the best stuff I ever used. When I did my frame DP 40 was the only epoxy primer made by Ditzler at that time. Topcoated with durethane, WAY overkill, expensive... Acrylic enamel would be fine flattened with one nice wet coat.
Let it set a few days then scuff and top with enamel but make sure you get the flattening correct before spraying because it mixes differently with hardener.
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