Things to look for
I have found 2 1969 427/390hp cars that I am interested in. Both were sold in Canada and have Gm Canada docs, both claim to be #s matching cars, and both are automatic, one has side pipes the other does not. But to the point, other than making sure the frames are not rotten, what sould I be looking for that might be a black flag? I have talked with one owner who says the drivers door does not shut right and the car has a stress crack around the hood area and bumps from rivets in the nose. Do the rivets indicate a collision repair or are they something common? The owner of the second car has yet to return my call. If either look decent from a first inspection by myself I would then try and find a member to come have a look with me for a better opinion. Thanks for any info.
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Re: Things to look for
My original un-hit 68 shows the riviets up front.Jack Corso
1972 Elkhart Green LT-1 Coupe 43,200 miles
Top Flight 1994, 2018 & 2021 -
Re: Things to look for
The front end "bumps" are due to corrosion of the aluminum rivets used to join the bonding strip to the metal under structure that mounts the headlamp actuators and such. Although common in the US rustbelt and Canada, it was not visible when the cars were new, and is a major PITA to repair in a acceptable (non-recurring) manner. Depending on severity, not a real problem on a driver, but will get worse with time.Bill Clupper #618Comment
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Re: Things to look for
Everything. One thing is for sure, if you own the car long enough and decide to restore it, you will end up finding all the things you missed during your pre-purchase inspection(s). In the last five years, I've become a real expert on '69 427/390 cars after tearing mine apart and rebuilding just about everything. To think it was advertised as being in excellent condition. The word original was more accurate, and remember these cars are 40 years old. I probably didn't pay too much for mine, just bought it a little early. Good luck and I concur with your choice of vette.Comment
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Re: Things to look for
Thanks for clearing up the rivet issue, are there any other hidden demons to look for? I tend to get over excited about a project and just dive in, so I am really trying to take my time and ask questions before doing something stupid.Comment
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Re: Things to look for
Everything, many 1 year only parts on both 68 and 69 cars, so anything broken or missing can be a hassle, RUST on the metal body structure is more difficult to deal with than the frame, check the door pillar, windshield area and such.Bill Clupper #618Comment
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Re: Things to look for
Ruh roh. Be vewwwy cawful with birdcage rot. Insist that the lower kick panels be removed for a full inspection of the pillar posts. Run away of they're rotted. Slide a business card around the gap between the windshield and inner trim. If rust flakes fall out, run away.
Rot in C3 birdcages cars is extremely expensive and time consuming to fix. Figure on 10K+ if you don't do your own labour. Rustbelt cars (see me waving?) are the worst sufferers.
Where in Canada are you located? (your profile is blank)Comment
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Re: Things to look for
Just outside Sarnia Ontario, in little hole called Petrolia.Comment
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Re: Things to look for
Matthew
A few other items you might check are:
1. The forward wiring harness - Sure not a deal breaker but if you see splicing it might signal a poor level of care.
2. Get it up on a lift.
3. Leaks
4. Interior
5. ExteriorTerry Buchanan
Webmaster / Secretary - Heart of Ohio Chapter www.ncrs.org/hoo
Corvettes Owned:
1977 Coupe
1968 Convertible 427/390 (L-36) Chapter Top Flight 2007, Regional Top Flight 2010, National Top Flight 2011
2003 Electron Blue Coupe
2019 Torch Red Grand Sport CoupeComment
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Re: Things to look for
Suspension can also get very expensive to repair. Especially the rear. It's already been said, but the Bird cage and Rear Frame "Doglegs" can be a killer. I learned the hard way 20 years ago, that finding Rust in the rear frame when you need rear suspension work can sometimes leave a mechanic refusing to repair your car due to liability issues, and you picking it up with a flatbed in pieces. This area is notorious for rust out and can often be covered up with puddy or fiberglass temporarily.
Estimate the cost to replace and or restore what is needed then double it.
Quadruple it if you don't do your own wrenching.
Pay as much as you can for the best car you can upfront. The money you save on projects (while a fufilling accomplishment) can cost you far more in the end than the car is worth.
I should listen to my own advice as I always tear them down.
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