1970 Wiper Door Question
My wiper door does not seem to come up as far as it should anymore. The vacuum system seems to be working fine. Has anybody ever experienced the spring on the wiper door going bad? I'm merely hypothesizing a bit.
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Re: 1970 Wiper Door Question
Stephen-----
I'd look at the control assembly bushings and lubrication of the control assembly pivot points. I've never heard of a problem with the spring, but if there were a problem, I don't know how you'd replace it and/or find a replacement spring. The spring was never available from GM as a separate part, and I don't know of a reproduction/aftermarket source for it, either.In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
Re: 1970 Wiper Door Question
I lubricated the bushing and such. It needs to open around a 1/4" to 1/2" more. I tried feeding the vacuum around the control, and it worked the same. Maybe the canister has become a little weak.
I adjusted the wiper override switch. The wipers work but are about 1/16" from the bottom of the door Too close for comfort. lol.
any more ideas?Comment
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Re: 1970 Wiper Door Question
The typical 'death' of a wiper door actuator (or for that matter HL door actuators) is the rubber boot that surrounds the actuator shaft creating the main vac seal. As the shaft runs in/out, the rubber boot folds back upon itself resulting in a 'sanding' action of the rubber.
Just before a seal fails for good, you might observe a slow down in actuator motion due to 'pinholes' developing in the seal before it rips loose altogether! Replacement seals are available from many of the catalog houses (including Dr. Rebuild) in the $10-15 range. Having a spare on-hand is WISE!
Replacement is a piece of cake. Remove the actuator, pop the old seal out/off. Lubricate the actuator shaft with something like WD-40 to get it slippery and SLOWLY, CAREFULLY slide the new seal over the shaft's threads and down into place. You're trying to avoid enlongating or tearing the upper end of the seal that's designed to 'snap' into place on the shaft's sealing groove.
Once the new seal is installed, consider lubricating the outer surface with something like silicone grease to reduce the rubbber against rubber abrasion that naturally happens when the shaft moves in/out...Comment
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Re: 1970 Wiper Door Question
Steve, one other point when you take out the actuator you can move the rod in and out to make sure the linkage isnt binding, theres alot of piviot points that require lubrication.New England chapter member, 63 Convert. 327/340- Chapter/Regional/national Top Flight, 72 coupe- chapter and regional Top Flight.Comment
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Re: 1970 Wiper Door Question
Good ideas from everyone. I've lubricated the pivot points and even checked to see if the canister is holding a vacuum. With the canister out of the car I put my finger over each of the ports, and the canister could not be moved. I wonder if the canister really needs a new seal with such a good vacuum?Comment
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Re: 1970 Wiper Door Question
Stephen a very long time ago I read an article about replacing the rubber seal that is mentioned. I tried what the article was written about on my 1970 Corvette and it is still working fine today with the replaced seal that was done more than 18 years ago. Did not have to order it, you can go to just about any store like Target, Wal-Mart, K-Mart or even grocery stores and buy package of the old style baby bottle nipples, the kind you can replace in the cap of the old style baby bottles. I splurged for the silicone nipples instead of the rubber ones. Still have not used one of them.
The only modification is to cut a perfect hole in the end to slide over the shaft. I cut the hole using an expended pistol shell casing. You need the hole small enough to make a good seal. The nipple is a perfect fit in the vacuum cannister.
The nipple is not seen with the rubber dust cover over the shaft.Comment
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Re: 1970 Wiper Door Question
Great insight and ideas!!! Thank you. I'll look at my wiper door some more.
I wonder if someone has measured the supply vacuum pressure?Comment
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