Another blackout question...

[Tom L.]

After checking the JM and the archives I was not able to determine how the bracket for the wiper door actuator is supposed to be painted. Was it there during the blackout procedure or painted seperately. And if seperate, what paint?

While I'm at it, any reccomendations for cleaning up the actuator aside from re-plating or replacing? Most of the plating is gone and it is pitted or has slight surface rust on the can. It works fine and thought I would do something about it's appearence while it is out of the car.

Thanks!

[Alan S.]

Re: Another blackout question...

Hi Lynn,
I believe the backet had a dipped semi-gloss black finish. Mine had a couple of nice runs and sags in the paint.
I don't think there's any way to paint the actuator and not have it look like paint instead of plating. Eastwood sells a 'Gold Cad' kit that has 4 different color paints in it and instructions. $$
I didn't have my actuator re-plated and this is what I did. I cleaned the actuator of all surface rust and repaired/filled a few blemishes and then put a VERY LIGHT coat of Silver Cad from Eastwood on the whole thing, this paint has a slight bluish tint in the silver. I let this dry well. I then used cans of copper, gold and silver to DUST very, very light amounts of those colors on different parts of the actuator. Some places the base silver still shown through, some places the color was more 'coppery', and some places more gold. I even put some plain silver back on. You want to have the paint be VERY thin, and almost transparent. This mimics the look of plating and doesn't have the build-up that paint has.
To my eye the main thing is to vary the colors and keep the paints extremely thin.
I think you can get a bit of an idea from this picture. It's of my 71 in it's 70 disguise. It's not plating but it's with-in budget.
Regards,
Alan

[Tom L.]

Re: Another blackout question...

In terms of the Eastwood painting process I agree. At $55 plus shipping I'd rather just buy a new actuator.

What you have done is similar in concept without the marketing costs, I'll probably experement on some scrap sheet metal and give it a try.

By the way, while am am trying to avoid unnecesary costs, I do find your comment about being "with-in budget" amusing. There is little about these cars that can be associated with the phrase "with-in budget".

Thanks!

[Bill C.]

Re: Another blackout question...

The aftermarket actuators will not pass judging. The bend in the elbow for late 71 all 72 is not correct (pretty sure).

There are a couple folks on the NCRS forum that do plating and restoration of these. I would rather have the original rebuilt and replated correctly.
I had Bob Demmel do mine and it is PERFECT!


Plus I have heard nothing but horror stories on new repop actuators.
They don't last long, the diaphram tears and it quits working.

[Tom L.]

Re: Another blackout question...

Thanks for the heads up on the repop actuators. Does the rebuilding process use the same parts as the repops or are the diaphrams of a better quality?

I'm starting to think I'll be keeping my rusty actuator for as long as possible!