Trailing arms help

[Wayne P.]

I have decided to get my trailing arms refurbished over the winter.
before I have a problem not sure if they were ever looked at.
Before I take them out should I reference the drive shaft yoke with the trailing arm spindle . (Sorry if I don't have the correct name.) example place a couple punch marks ? Or can the rear drive shafts be installed on either side. I would also make sure the u-joints are good at the same time. I will also make note of the shims.
Any other advice on what to look for in advance would be helpful.
Thanks in advance.
1964 drum brake

[Gary R.]

Re: Trailing arms help

Make note of the shims,inboard and out to get back close but with new T/A bushings installed this will change.
No need to witness mark the 1/2 shafts to flanges, those are not balanced and can go back either way. Look for crushed tubes near the yokes as a sign someone worked on them in the past. With the old joints out you want to check the yoke bores as well.

This thread I wrote will help you as well

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76752

Here is one on the T/A's

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77000

[Joe L.]

Re: Trailing arms help

I have decided to get my trailing arms refurbished over the winter.
before I have a problem not sure if they were ever looked at.
Before I take them out should I reference the drive shaft yoke with the trailing arm spindle . (Sorry if I don't have the correct name.) example place a couple punch marks ? Or can the rear drive shafts be installed on either side. I would also make sure the u-joints are good at the same time. I will also make note of the shims.
Any other advice on what to look for in advance would be helpful.
Thanks in advance.
1964 drum brake

Wayne-----


I would never re-use the u-joints, especially if they've been in the car for a long time. If even slight brinnelling is noted on even one of the trunnion bearing surfaces, the u-joint is scrap. I think you'll be amazed at just how bad the u-joints are when you get the shafts out and remove the bearing caps.

[Wayne P.]

Re: Trailing arms help

Gary. Great advice . Do you still recommend Spicer ? I noticed the product number is 5-799x. Would this be the one to order. I can get hold of a lathe
to make the fixture. THX

[Gary R.]

Re: Trailing arms help

Yes, I still only use spicers. They went up on price with the last sets I ordered for carlisle but the few dollars extra is still worth it- just don't break the rings. I still have the extra rings as well. Use 5/8 or 3/4 flat stock if you make a fixture.

[Wayne P.]

Re: Trailing arms help

Gary. I called a local Cheve dealership and asked if they would look up the u-joint for the half shafts. He did the number flipped a few times. He said it was a spicer no grease nipple price 149.50 FOR ONE !!!
I told him I could get a half shaft including u-joint for that.
It is no wonder why I hate to go to a dealership for parts . Part guy agreed. he would knock 20 off. I think the average price would be 27$ plus.

[Joe L.]

Re: Trailing arms help

Gary. I called a local Cheve dealership and asked if they would look up the u-joint for the half shafts. He did the number flipped a few times. He said it was a spicer no grease nipple price 149.50 FOR ONE !!!
I told him I could get a half shaft including u-joint for that.
It is no wonder why I hate to go to a dealership for parts . Part guy agreed. he would knock 20 off. I think the average price would be 27$ plus.

Wayne-----

A GM dealership is definitely not the place to buy u-joints. However, there is one thing to keep in mind: Spicer makes several different series u-joints. The ones that come in GM boxes are the "top-of-the-line" and not usually the ones you get from a Spicer dealer or auto parts store. I THINK (but, I'm NOT sure) that Spicer even has more than one line of u-joints without grease fittings. The less expensive line looks somewhat like the original u-joints and has a standard, forged steel body. The more expensive line (and, I believe it's the one that GM sells under their part number) has a much different configuration. It's manufactured of forged, powder metal and, consequently, it's a lot stronger. Of course, as I say, the configuration of these u-joints is a lot different than original and, from that perspective, they might be less desirable from a "restoration" perspective.

In any event, I think one can purchase any of the available Spicer u-joint lines for less cost from a Spicer dealer or auto parts store. However, if one compares the cost of Spicer's top-of-the-line u-joints from a Spicer dealer/auto parts store versus a deep-discounted price from a GM dealer (like GMPartsDirect), I think the price spread would narrow considerably.

[Gary V.]

Re: Trailing arms help

I have decided to get my trailing arms refurbished over the winter.
before I have a problem not sure if they were ever looked at.
Before I take them out should I reference the drive shaft yoke with the trailing arm spindle . (Sorry if I don't have the correct name.) example place a couple punch marks ? Or can the rear drive shafts be installed on either side. I would also make sure the u-joints are good at the same time. I will also make note of the shims.
Any other advice on what to look for in advance would be helpful.
Thanks in advance.
1964 drum brake

Wayne
Looks like the info has been given on the shims and u joints but you should also take a look at the brake hardware, springs,Em cable, drum and cylinders while the arm is out of the car. It is a lot easier to replace these Items during the rebuild.
Check also what the arm rebuilder is quoting to do. Generally the arm / bearing rebuild does not include any brake hardware and it is and extra charge. We have done a lot of these at www.Vtechcorvette.com

Gary V.

[Wayne P.]

Re: Trailing arms help

I thought I would give an update. I got the a-arms off having to use a air chisel to cut the nut .
I didn't realize how bad both bearings were.
I marked the half shafts left and right.
The bolt was also driven out with the air chisel with a long punch attached.
I marked the shims ( look like originals with bolt hole. ) .
I t looks like I need new bushings in the strut. It was mentioned to mark the washer for re installation.
I think I will upgrade struts. VBP has a what looks to be a good set up.
I don't have a numbers matching car. Would it be advisable to replace drums with disks at rear ?
I replaced the front with disks and duel master with vacuum .
I was also thinking about replacing the rear spring with a fiberglass spring..
This car will be a driver .
My other question is the rear end yoke moves in and out by had. I guess I need to put a dial indicator on it to determine
end play.

Thanks for all the advice
Thanks Sorry for the long post.

[Gary R.]

Re: Trailing arms help

Wayne
If the pinion yoke moves in/out you have a problem. If you're referring to the side yokes then they will have some, over 050 is no good and should be checked to see if the yoke or posi is the problem.

I setup a 64 with Disc brakes last year, I can put you in contact with the fellow. He did all the research and selected the parts, I fit them for him. I had to do some minor machine work.

[Wayne P.]

Re: Trailing arms help

Thanks Gary.
I will check end play of the side yoke. I have a starrett dial indicator with a magnetic base. Thanks for any contacts or info.

[Gary R.]

Re: Trailing arms help

No problem Wayne, you can call me with any questions and check my threads on DC for reference. Be sure the Mag base is secure. With the 1/2 shaft out you should be able to mount it and gently move the side yokes in/out. If you find 050 endplay it may not be the yokes. They would have to be removed to check. I just did a 72 diff where the problem of 090 endplay was in the posi case. Once I machined and fit the case with a 12 bolt cross shaft it was reusable and 1/2 the cost of a new loaded eaton. It also is a lot better then a new eaton.