rivnuts for frame

[Timothy B.]

I wanted to post a picture of the rivnuts I purchased from McMaster Carr for the striped thresds we find in these frames where brake cables and spare tire carriers etc. mount. These are cad plated steel and are 5/16" 24 (fine thread) so hopefully the original style bolts will work.

The instructions say to drill 1/2" hole, insert and pull the assembly together with a grade eight bolt. Can be used on material thickness .030 and up. I will let everyone know how difficult they are to install, they look like a good fix.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone..

[Bob R.]

Re: rivnuts for frame

I wanted to use them on my spare tire carrier but I couldn't find the fine thread. Where did you find them?

[Joel T.]

Re: rivnuts for frame

I wanted to use them on my spare tire carrier but I couldn't find the fine thread. Where did you find them?

Bob;

There is a company on Long Island who sells them, I can dig up the name for you... or you can Google "rivnuts" and there are a number of places you can get them from.. Some are aluminum and some are stainless steel as I recall. I tried installing one on my frame without their special "tool" and it was a PITA. With the tool, it is a snap... needless to say, I have the tool in hand (used once) if anyone needs to borrow it...

Tim, I used a rivnut to mount the RR brake line to the frame on my '63.. great fix which you cannot see...

Have fun!

Joel

[Alan D.]

Re: rivnuts for frame

I've used same style of inserts for many industrial & home door access applications, the stuff works fine. However the hole size was a little too large to make me happy. So off to the web to find another option.
Now HeliCoil is the old standby, but one needs a special drill/tap. Ended up using an E-Z Lok that installs using a standard drill/tap so no special stuff needed and hole was smaller that the HeliCoil. Your main problem will be finding someone who has in stock - take a look at these.

[Timothy B.]

Re: rivnuts for frame

Just wanted to post my results with these rivnuts. I drilled a 1/2" hole which is the correct drill size and installed the four for the spare tire carrier. I had some difficulty with the back spining in the hole but was able to get behind to press down on the nut portion until it caught and tightened into the body.

I am not sure if a impact gun will work better but that's what I will try next time. That is the only problem encountered and it worked me a little but turned out very nice.

Once installed there are a great fix, I will post a pic tomorrow. I used the original indented head fine thread bolts with no problem. Worth the effort IMHO..

http://www.mcmaster.com/#98560A586

[Chuck G.]

Re: rivnuts for frame

I tried to use them in several instances, Tim, but could never stop the gizmo from spinning, thus it would never compress and get a "bite".

Chuck

[Timothy B.]

Re: rivnuts for frame

Here is a pic of the compressed rivnut. I did all four at the spare tire mounting but only the front two were striped.

[Michael D.]

Re: rivnuts for frame

Tim:

I used them in the early 90's to repair the brake line holes on the frame as well on my '64. They work great and of course allow one to keep the original hardware and not have to drill out the brake line clips, etc.

I recall I made a very simple tool which was a piece of flat stock, perhaps 1/4" thick, and perhaps 1 1/4" x 3.0" rectangular. I drilled a clearance hole for the bolt through the center of the flat stock, in your case clearance hole for 5/16". Keep the clearance tight. Still working on a bench, I used a temporary longer 5/16" x 24 bolt through this plate and threaded the rivnut on the back. (suggest a flatwasher and moly lube for the torquing procedure) I then hand tightened the rivnut against the installation tool, then gave it just a little tension so as to make it have a bite but not expand enough to not fit in the frame hole.

At this stage the flat stock is in your hand with a longer 5/16" bolt and the rivnut tensioned just a bit.

Take your beer can and the assembly to the repair hole, install the rivnut in intended repair hole and tighten. Use an adjustable wrench to hold the rectangular stock (across the 1 1/4" side) in place while tightening. The trick is to keep the flat stock stable while you tighten the bolt while compressing the rivnut. 2 people would help but I did mine alone. Once torqued all the way, unscrew the longer 5/16 bolt and you are done.

You get the "installation tool " quality for no cost.

Mike Delehanty

[John H.]

Re: rivnuts for frame

I've found it much easier to use genuine 5/16" Rivnuts (aluminum ones, not steel - the steel ones require a special tool).

I use an Allen-head capscrew and small-O.D. AN washer and some oil or grease on the washer and screw as the "tool", insert the Rivnut and screw/washer in the hole, and hit it with an air impact and hex bit, holding the O.D. of the Rivnut flange with Vise-Grips; the impact spins it up instantly, crimping the Rivnut in place.

Photos below show the same application (spare tire tub bolts into the frame and gas tank support).

[Timothy B.]

Re: rivnuts for frame

Thanks everyone for there good information..

Mike, I think you are on to something.. I am going to use a piece of 5/16" fine thread to go through the rivnut and a plate against the outside then a flat washer and nut to pull the nut portion into the seat.

These things make a great repair and I know others have questioned the best repair method. The key (problem) is to set the nut without anything turning while it's pulled to stop and keep the base flush with the hole edge. The lip on the base is .015.. so it's virtually flush..