1970 Frame dimensions / advice
I have a 1970, LS5. Frame was bent at some point prior to me owning it, and subsequently straightened. I'm doing a body off restoration - my first. Frame had no rust as car mostly sat in previous owners' garages. I had it sand blasted, then painted with epoxy primer and SEMs chassis black. It looks great.
However I'm wondering if I need to bring frame back to a frame shop for verification / tweaking prior to assembly. I got a copy of a frame dimension chart. My measurements with tape measure (so not exact)vs specified:
Dimension Specified My frame
width, outside rail to rail at front horns 32 7/8 32 11/16
front x-member center hole to left, side rail front hole 55 5/8 56
front x-member center hole to right, side rail front hole55 5/8 56 1/4
front x-member center hole to left, side rail rear hole 77 3/4 77 13/16
front x-member center hole to right, side rail rear hole 77 3/4 78 3/16
side rail hole (front, left) to side rail hole (front, right) 53 1/4 53 5/8
side rail hole (rear, left) to side rail hole (rear, right) 53 1/4 53 3/8
upper a-arm mounting surface left to right (front holes)26 3/8 26 7/16
upper a-arm mounting surface left to right (rear holes) 26 3/8 26 1/8
The reason for the rear holes being 1/4" closer looks to be the surface surrounding the hole on right side is 'dimpled' inwards towards center-line of car.
Rear of frame section is pretty much exactly as specified. Front cross member center to hole to chassis rear, left corner vs rear, right corner is 77 13/16" vs 17 3/16", or 3/8" difference.
I'd like to make this car NCRS correct. I called 2 frame shops. Both suggest adding motor and suspension, then bringing it in for measurement and tweaking if needed. They both indicated they could work with a bare frame, but it would be more difficult for them. I have three questions. First, are these measurements typical? Second: If they are too far out, any recommendations for if I should bring chassis in now vs after adding suspenion vs buy new chassis (hate to do this as this is a matching number car and both frame stampings are still there)? Third: Which shop to use? One is old school frame shop, been around forever and indicated they've worked on these cars in past. Other one is a collision center that is computerized and would make measurements with lasers, etc. Person I spoke with there seemed genuinely interested in determining best way to make the measurements with laser if frame was on blocks. Any thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated. Steve
However I'm wondering if I need to bring frame back to a frame shop for verification / tweaking prior to assembly. I got a copy of a frame dimension chart. My measurements with tape measure (so not exact)vs specified:
Dimension Specified My frame
width, outside rail to rail at front horns 32 7/8 32 11/16
front x-member center hole to left, side rail front hole 55 5/8 56
front x-member center hole to right, side rail front hole55 5/8 56 1/4
front x-member center hole to left, side rail rear hole 77 3/4 77 13/16
front x-member center hole to right, side rail rear hole 77 3/4 78 3/16
side rail hole (front, left) to side rail hole (front, right) 53 1/4 53 5/8
side rail hole (rear, left) to side rail hole (rear, right) 53 1/4 53 3/8
upper a-arm mounting surface left to right (front holes)26 3/8 26 7/16
upper a-arm mounting surface left to right (rear holes) 26 3/8 26 1/8
The reason for the rear holes being 1/4" closer looks to be the surface surrounding the hole on right side is 'dimpled' inwards towards center-line of car.
Rear of frame section is pretty much exactly as specified. Front cross member center to hole to chassis rear, left corner vs rear, right corner is 77 13/16" vs 17 3/16", or 3/8" difference.
I'd like to make this car NCRS correct. I called 2 frame shops. Both suggest adding motor and suspension, then bringing it in for measurement and tweaking if needed. They both indicated they could work with a bare frame, but it would be more difficult for them. I have three questions. First, are these measurements typical? Second: If they are too far out, any recommendations for if I should bring chassis in now vs after adding suspenion vs buy new chassis (hate to do this as this is a matching number car and both frame stampings are still there)? Third: Which shop to use? One is old school frame shop, been around forever and indicated they've worked on these cars in past. Other one is a collision center that is computerized and would make measurements with lasers, etc. Person I spoke with there seemed genuinely interested in determining best way to make the measurements with laser if frame was on blocks. Any thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated. Steve
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