Installation of half shafts ?

[Wayne P.]

I have the frame to the point of installing the half shafts. Do I install the torque struts ( camber ) first. The reason I ask is that the half shafts are about 3/4 inch from the yoke. I didn't want to put stress on the diff.
I placed new rubber bushings in struts. ordered new cam bolts.
Thanks in advance for any help.

[Joe L.]

Re: Installation of half shafts ?

I have the frame to the point of installing the half shafts. Do I install the torque struts ( camber ) first. The reason I ask is that the half shafts are about 3/4 inch from the yoke. I didn't want to put stress on the diff.
I placed new rubber bushings in struts. ordered new cam bolts.
Thanks in advance for any help.

Wayne------


I would install the half shafts first. If you install the strut rods first, it will make installing the half-shafts much more difficult.

[Alan D.]

Re: Installation of half shafts ?

Wayne if you're trying to install the half shafts with everything in the air then - here is a little trick; Slide an angled section of wood between the frame pocket and torque control arm (where the shims are) Thus raising the wheels closer to "on ground" position. Things will slide together much simpler.

Oh, there are some bolts which need to be torqued "on ground" Joe will know, I've forgot.

[Wayne P.]

Re: Installation of half shafts ?

I thought this would be a streight foreward job. What a headache. I had to take the shims out to be able to get the half shafts on. Would it be better to put the spring on last ? Now I can rotate the half shafts but it binds part way . Would you know if the 2 large shims are on the inside or the outside of the trailing arm ? Thanks

[Paul J.]

Re: Installation of half shafts ?

Wayne, if it was easy everyone would do it. Take your time and think it through, and try not to invent any new cuss words. If you took it apart, you can put it back together.

When I get frustrated, I just walk away for a while. It really clears your head.

Remember, it's supposed to be fun.

Paul

[Michael G.]

Re: Installation of half shafts ?

Wayne, The shim placement varies from vehicle to vehicle in order to achieve proper alignment. There may be a common configuration amongst the production year, but I'm not aware of it. The diff yoke and half shaft ends will bind if you have not elevated the trailing arm yet. The univeral joint was not designed to rotate at a sharp angle. And yes, the spring will be the last that you install. You might want to get those shims in place now. They may be difficult to install later. Good luck, Mike

[Wayne P.]

Re: Installation of half shafts ?

Thanks Paul : I figured it out. I used ratchet straps to get the trailing arms up to ride height. It all fell into place after that. The half shaft was binding because of the angle. ( will place a wedge in 1" ) I guess I will have to put a lot of weight on the frame to move it . The spring seems quite stiff. Any advice on shims for the trailing arms? This is a new frame . I heard to put two large shims on the outboard side to start with and fill in the inboard. Not sure if this is correct.

[Jean C.]

Re: Installation of half shafts ?

Wayne, I'll get you back to the top of the list in hopes someone responds to your query regarding the shims.
Best regards,

[Bob R.]

Re: Installation of half shafts ?

If the frame is new the shims may not be the same number or location as the old frame. You might be best off splitting the difference between both sides of the trailing arm. You will need a rear alignment at any rate so just install the shims and the alignment shop will have to make adjustments to get a proper alignment.

[Michael W.]

Re: Installation of half shafts ?

The question of shims has no precise answer because of the production variances unique to each vehicle and it's components.

Divide the shims into four equal piles and put a pile on each side of the two trailing arms, then tighten the nut. This will get the toe-in close enough to drive safely to an alignment shop where the operator will move a shim or shims from one side of the arm to the other in order to set final toe.

[Joe L.]

Re: Installation of half shafts ?

If the frame is new the shims may not be the same number or location as the old frame. You might be best off splitting the difference between both sides of the trailing arm. You will need a rear alignment at any rate so just install the shims and the alignment shop will have to make adjustments to get a proper alignment.

Bob-----

...and with the use of these aftermarket, alternate design trailing arms, it's impossible to say what sort of shimming will be necessary. It may have no relationship, at all, to the original shim packs.

[Timothy B.]

Re: Installation of half shafts ?

Wayne,

With the body off the frame, use a thin fishing line and stringline the frame. Run the line from front to back keeping it even with the side frame rails at the box section, (parallel with the side rails).

Put the rear tire on the car and set height at ride height and measure distance from front of rim and back of rim to the stringline. Shim to keep the front and back measurments even. Always shim the inside to get the measurment then stuff the outside, total pack should be 3/4" of shims. You can get close if you set your line carefully, I think total rear toe (both sides) is only something like 1/16" so shim even.

Don't do this with the spring attached.

[Wayne P.]

Re: Installation of half shafts ?

Thanks guys. I think I have enough info to make a reasonable shim install
until alignment. Thanks again

[Justin S.]

Re: Installation of half shafts ?

I too tied a strap around the spring to bring the trailing arm up but still can't get the axle shaft in.

The service manual doesn't mention R&R of strut rod.

What am I doing wrong?

[Frank D.]

Re: Installation of half shafts ?

Not sure I understand what you're doing, the spring nor the bottom end of the strut rods should be connected when doing this; the procedure IS in the shop manual. This is clearly stated. The strut rod is best removed from the shock mount using a "knocker" (although there are other methods and homemade tools) that can be bought several places:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-82-Corvette-Rear-Lower-Shock-Mount-Removal-Tool-/380278715114

You may have to push the trailing arms outward to get the half shafts into place for attaching against the front busing pressure, this is why the spring nor strut rod can be connected while doing so.

There is a "sweet spot" where you can support the trailing arm where the half-shaft is most easily positioned (see picture).