Correct Wheel Weights

[Michael M.]

Looking for info on correct wheel weight applications for 67 bolt on wheel and ralley wheel applications. Also were the weights installed both inside and out on both applications? It seems ashame to attach a wheel weight to the outside of the bolt ons! I see Paragon claims to have the correct style wheel weights, any input on this would be appreciated.

Save the wave and thanks in advance

[Joe L.]

Re: Correct Wheel Weights

Looking for info on correct wheel weight applications for 67 bolt on wheel and ralley wheel applications. Also were the weights installed both inside and out on both applications? It seems ashame to attach a wheel weight to the outside of the bolt ons! I see Paragon claims to have the correct style wheel weights, any input on this would be appreciated.

Save the wave and thanks in advance

Michael-----


I believe that all 1967 wheel weights were "Micro" branded, but I'm not 100% sure for the bolt-on aluminum wheels. However, the standard rally wheels used different weights than the bolt-on aluminum wheels.

As far as placement is concerned, both rally wheels and bolt-on aluminum wheels used weights attached only on the INNER side.

The use of weights on both sides of the wheel is generally done when a wheel and tire assembly is DYNAMICALLY balanced. However, Corvette wheels were not dynamically balanced. They were only STATIC balanced and, thus, only required weights on one side of the wheel. I think this was also advantageous because it eliminated possible problems with trim ring installation on steel wheels.

Beginning in 1972, GM allowed the splitting of weights if more than 3 oz of weight was required for any assembly. However, I don't know if this was actually ever done. I really doubt that it was.

[Donald T.]

Re: Correct Wheel Weights

I assume the bolt on wheel weights would be the same as for knock offs. Here's a link to an earlier discussion with pics of my NOS examples.

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...47756&uid=2721

[Ronald L.]

Re: Correct Wheel Weights

I asked Paragon about these micro weights, got a you better verify answer.

Who knows if these are absolutely correct for 66?

[Raymond W.]

Re: Correct Wheel Weights

Michael, there's an excellent article on wheel weights in Vol. 31, Number 3, Winter 2005 of the Corvette Restorer. It provides a wealth of information about weights for steel wheels, but only mentions that the weights used for knock-off wheels were different. You still have that issue?

[William F.]

Re: Correct Wheel Weights

I have copy of Best of Corvette News published in 1976 which contains numerous tech articles from past issues of Corvette News, including "all about aluminum wheels." Don't know how it was done at factory but dynamic balancing is always best. Article states that weights for al. wheels are different from those used for steel wheels, primarily in more square configuration of part that attaches weight to rim:1/2 oz. pn3830798;1 oz. pn3830779;2 oz. pn3830801. Article recommends splitting amount of weight BETWEEN front and back of rim when larger weights are required, NOT putting them all on front side as someone else suggested.Wheels shown in article were '65-'66 knockoff/spinner type but would assume(hate to use this word) would apply to '67's as well.

[Joe L.]

Re: Correct Wheel Weights

I have copy of Best of Corvette News published in 1976 which contains numerous tech articles from past issues of Corvette News, including "all about aluminum wheels." Don't know how it was done at factory but dynamic balancing is always best. Article states that weights for al. wheels are different from those used for steel wheels, primarily in more square configuration of part that attaches weight to rim:1/2 oz. pn3830798;1 oz. pn3830779;2 oz. pn3830801. Article recommends splitting amount of weight BETWEEN front and back of rim when larger weights are required, NOT putting them all on front side as someone else suggested.Wheels shown in article were '65-'66 knockoff/spinner type but would assume(hate to use this word) would apply to '67's as well.

William------


Yes, dynamic balance is better than static balance, but, be that as it may, the factory did not use dynamic balance for Corvette wheel/tire assemblies.

As I mentioned, beginning in 1972 GM specified that splitting of the weight was approved if the amount of weight required exceeded 3 ounces. Over a total of 5 ounces of weight was never allowed on Corvette wheels. Inasmuch as the Corvette New edition you described was from 1976, I'm sure it reflected the 1972 and later policy allowing (but NOT requiring) the splitting of weights if over 3 ounces was required. However, I doubt that the factory ever did this. First of all, most factory tire and wheel assemblies did not require more than 3 ounces of weight. Second, if weights had been placed on the outer side of the wheel, it may have conflicted with the subsequent installation of trim rings.

[Ken J.]

Re: Correct Wheel Weights

Does anyone have a good source for the correct weights for the Rally Wheels on the 67's?
Ken

[Michael M.]

Re: Correct Wheel Weights

Ken I have seen mid-year weights with many different markings. Such as Halko, 14 with a circle around it, snuql, Micro, Deka, and MCH. If you know what markings you want and what size weights I have a source for these.

[William F.]

Re: Correct Wheel Weights

I suppose if absolute originality is your goal, you can use static balancing and put all the weight on the back side of rim and don't forget to keep original air in tires while you're at it. If you want the wheels balanced and not shaking or bouncing, you'll use dynamic balancing and split larger amounts of weights front and back. As I said, the article recommending this procedure showed a 65 or 66 wheel for example, not a 72 or later.

[Joe L.]

Re: Correct Wheel Weights

I suppose if absolute originality is your goal, you can use static balancing and put all the weight on the back side of rim and don't forget to keep original air in tires while you're at it. If you want the wheels balanced and not shaking or bouncing, you'll use dynamic balancing and split larger amounts of weights front and back. As I said, the article recommending this procedure showed a 65 or 66 wheel for example, not a 72 or later.

William------


I ALWAYS have my wheel and tire assemblies dynamically balanced. I also have to go to great lengths to mark the wheels to ensure that weights are not placed in the locations of the trim ring clips. Since the clips are quite wide, this places "off-limits" a great amount of the perimeter of the wheel. On several occasions I have had the tire man tell me that there's was no way they could do a proper balance without putting weights in those areas. I just told them to do the best they could.

Just because I always have my wheels dynamically balanced and just because that is the best method does not change the fact that Corvettes did not originally have their wheels balanced by that method. A static balance is all they received and that's the way it was. I can also tell you that when my 1969 was new and its wheels/tire assemblies having only received a static balance, it drove quite smoothly with no shimmy or wheel shake. There have been MILLIONS of other cars only receiving a static wheel balance, either from the factory as well as in service, that had no problems, either.

Also, while it is not a concern for me, personally, the placement of weights on the outer side of the wheel is, as far as I know, a cause for a judging point deduction. Of course, although it might be hard to detect on pre-67 models with wheel covers, it's very easy to detect on 67-72 models with trim rings.

By the way, regardless of whether the wheels in the Corvette News article were 65 or 66, the article was PUBLISHED well after Chevrolet revised its procedures for wheel balancing. By that time the splitting of weights was approved IF the total amount of weight exceeded 3 ounces. Since the use of total weight of over 5 ounces was not approved, the use of split weights was therefore only approved for weight requirements of between 3 and 5 ounces.

[Randy G.]

Re: Correct Wheel Weights

Seems as though big government is banning those dangerous lead weights. I know of a tire shop here in California that is dealing with the issue right now.

Here's an L.A. Times article from a while back.

http://articles.latimes.com/2008/aug/21/business/fi-wheels21

[Mike M.]

Re: Correct Wheel Weights

Although, GM had multiple suppliers, the Micros were predominant throughout the M-Y Corvettes.
These had ounces listed with the decimal equivalents on both ends. Nothing metric on either or both ends.
Yes, the Aluminum wheel application '64-7 used different weights from the steel wheels. These had "AL" cast into the face and had the same decimal fractional identifications on both ends and the profile is different to properly fit the unique aluminum lip.
Check out the Restorer feature by Mark Lincoln from a year or so ago.
I am travelling, so I cannot pinpoint, someone will jump in.
No need to repeat the other responses to your inquiry.
HaND

[Terry M.]

Re: Correct Wheel Weights

Michael-----


I believe that all 1967 wheel weights were "Micro" branded, but I'm not 100% sure for the bolt-on aluminum wheels. However, the standard rally wheels used different weights than the bolt-on aluminum wheels.

As far as placement is concerned, both rally wheels and bolt-on aluminum wheels used weights attached only on the INNER side.

The use of weights on both sides of the wheel is generally done when a wheel and tire assembly is DYNAMICALLY balanced. However, Corvette wheels were not dynamically balanced. They were only STATIC balanced and, thus, only required weights on one side of the wheel. I think this was also advantageous because it eliminated possible problems with trim ring installation on steel wheels.

Beginning in 1972, GM allowed the splitting of weights if more than 3 oz of weight was required for any assembly. However, I don't know if this was actually ever done. I really doubt that it was.

If one can find a skilled operator of a Hunter Road Force balancer a wheel/tire assembly can be successfully DYNAMICALLY balanced using only weights on the inner wheel rim.

C2 & C3 owners with steel wheels can also cheat by using for the outer weights adhesive weights stuck to the road wheels and hidden by the trim ring. This works fine and the judges won't see them.

[Joe L.]

Re: Correct Wheel Weights

If one can find a skilled operator of a Hunter Road Force balancer a wheel/tire assembly can be successfully DYNAMICALLY balanced using only weights on the inner wheel rim.

C2 & C3 owners with steel wheels can also cheat by using for the outer weights adhesive weights stuck to the road wheels and hidden by the trim ring. This works fine and the judges won't see them.

Terry------


If one can find a tire man that can even operate the balancer well enough to achieve a proper balance, one is extremely lucky these days. "Throwing them any curves", at all, and one will have even less of a chance to get a proper balance.