How can I sychronize my 64 head lights?

[Tim D.]

Is it possible to sychronize both head light buckets so they will go up and down at the exact same time? If so, how do I do it? All parts are new and properly lubed and work very well. They are close to being sychronized but the passenger side lags slightly behind the driver's side.

Thanks,
Tim

[Tom P.]

Re: How can I sychronize my 64 head lights?

You funny man!
It might be easier to swap orbits with the planets!

[Harry S.]

Re: How can I sychronize my 64 head lights?

If they are a second or two seconds apart, they are just about perfect.

[Stuart F.]

Re: How can I sychronize my 64 head lights?

That's about true what Tom says. Mine have not been in synque since new, not either since repaired after I hit a deer. I replaced the motors once as well and, really, now I'm just pleased as punch that I get them to both open fully. Incidently, you won't see many C-3's in synque either. They just go "plop-plop", one after the other.

Stu Fox

[Jack H.]

Re: How can I sychronize my 64 head lights?

Incidently, you won't see many C-3's in synque either. They just go "plop-plop", one after the other.

It's my experience that the C3 vac operated HL's open and close 'pretty much' in sync WHEN the car's vac system components are up to snuff. The vac control line (when to open/close) is common to both the RH and LH buckets. So, both sides get their 'marching orders' at the same time.

It's the vac system's servo side (actual open/close actuating force) that differs between the RH and LH buckets. The LH bucket is driven directly from the vac reservoir. The RH bucket's servo vac runs in parallel with the car's wiper door.

So, any small leaks in the wiper door side of the servo vac will act to reduce the driving force to the RH HL bucket relative to the LH bucket. When there's a noticeable relative delay in RH vs. LH bucket actuation, it's typically the RH side that lags the LH side.

That's a 'give away' symptom telling you to look for servo vac loss related to the wiper door sub-system as well as verifying the vac integrity of the RH HL actuator!

[Mike Z.]

Re: How can I sychronize my 64 head lights?

Tim-if all the parts are new and well lubed (which is usually the problem), the issue is probably the end-play adjustment on the motors. When I restore these motors, I test them on the bench-hooked up to a 12v. battery and a multi-meter in series so I can read the current draw-in both directions. The adjustment of the end play on the mainshaft will apply pressure to the shaft that will cause more or less current draw, thus varying the speed. By checking the current draw, one can tighten up (slow down slightly) or lossen up (speed up slightly) the speed the motor turns. When both motors draw the same current, they should be turning at approximately the same speed-therefore, once installed in the car; open and close at the same rate.
It ain't rocket science and takes a little time, but it seems to work out pretty well. Worked out on my 66 Duntov Award/PV car and 66 National Top Flight cars.

Mike Zamora
#12455

[Pat M.]

Re: How can I sychronize my 64 head lights?

Incidently, you won't see many C-3's in synque either. They just go "plop-plop", one after the other.
Stu Fox

That's exactly how my 70's headlights go up, one just after the other, and my vacuum system is really tight. Oddly, though, they both go down at exactly the same time.

[Michael W.]

Re: How can I sychronize my 64 head lights?

It's my experience that the C3 vac operated HL's open and close 'pretty much' in sync WHEN the car's vac system components are up to snuff.

Agreed. Very few C3 owners keep their vacuum system in top shape though. Most symptoms are misdiagnosed and the incorrect components get replaced without effect.

[Tracy C.]

Re: How can I sychronize my 64 head lights?

Tim-if all the parts are new and well lubed (which is usually the problem), the issue is probably the end-play adjustment on the motors. When I restore these motors, I test them on the bench-hooked up to a 12v. battery and a multi-meter in series so I can read the current draw-in both directions. The adjustment of the end play on the mainshaft will apply pressure to the shaft that will cause more or less current draw, thus varying the speed. By checking the current draw, one can tighten up (slow down slightly) or lossen up (speed up slightly) the speed the motor turns. When both motors draw the same current, they should be turning at approximately the same speed-therefore, once installed in the car; open and close at the same rate.
It ain't rocket science and takes a little time, but it seems to work out pretty well. Worked out on my 66 Duntov Award/PV car and 66 National Top Flight cars.

Mike Zamora
#12455

Mike,

That sounds like a great article for the Restorer... Please put some meat on those bones and send it in!

tc

[Ian H.]

Re: How can I sychronize my 64 head lights?

Mike,

That sounds like a great article for the Restorer... Please put some meat on those bones and send it in!

tc

I agree. I would love to see an article on synchronizing the headlights.

[Pat M.]

Re: How can I sychronize my 64 head lights?

But, where the buckets closely synchronized from the factory? Would that be TFP? I didn't get penalized for not having them in synch all the way to my Duntov.

EDIT: I guess I should have asked is near perfect synchronization TFP. Mine are very close, but not identical, when they open.

[Jack H.]

Re: How can I sychronize my 64 head lights?

But, where the buckets closely synchronized from the factory? Would that be TFP? I didn't get penalized for not having them in synch all the way to my Duntov.

I don't think we know how close the synchronization was and/or where the 'limits' of typical factory production lie. The 'pickiest' we get on this subject is the descriptive text in the Operations Manual & PV Test Guide:

"HEADLIGHT MOTORS

Rotate headlight buckets to open position and note function. Roate headlight buckets to close position. The motors activated by a switch below the left instrument panel, should smoothly, and fully, open and close in a reasonably synchronous movement." (itallics added)

That means there's some subjectivity here... When I judge 'em, I look for open/close action to be reasonably close in time, but NOT absolutely dead nuts on in terms of synchronous motion.

If one bucket completes its open/close cycle while the other side is, say, half-way through its cycle, that's a bit off in my book. It they're within an 1/8th of a cycle apart, that's probably close enough...

In between an 1/8 and 1/2 cycle of relative separation and we're in no-mans-land. Might warrant a comment without point deduction during an Operations Test under Flight.

The acid test is when the car is PV judged. Each NTL has his opinion as do those on their list of qualified PV judges. They'll gladly share their guideline(s) if you ask!

[Tim D.]

Re: How can I sychronize my 64 head lights?

Thanks to all who have posted. I really appreciate your input and you have verified my original thought that they were never fully syncronized. Mine are very close and after hearing all of your comments, I think they are well within specs and I may just leave well enough alone.

Thanks again,
Tim

[Jim D.]

Re: How can I sychronize my 64 head lights?

If the brushes are good, the commutators clean, the mechanism clean/lubed and the wiring good, both motors should be very close in operating speed. Reducing the end play on the armature in order to slow the motor down is not a good idea as they are not designed to operate with a pre-load and it can cause the motor to suffer an early death.

[Tim D.]

Re: How can I sychronize my 64 head lights?

Jim,

Thanks for your input. Considering I just rebuilt everything, I definitely don't want them to suffer an early death. I appreciate your knowledge. After checking them out again, I really think they are working very well and pretty darn close to being in sync. My friend made the comment and then got me to thinking about it. He builds fighter jets for Boeing so he is used to EVERYTHING being very precise. He is not a Corvette guy and is unfamiliar with what is considered typical for a C2.

Thanks a bunch.

Tim

Tim