clutch change in the car ?

[Martyn T.]

Any tricks to doing a small block clutch in the car or is it easier to remove the motor and all ? I heard getting the tranny moved out of the way can be tough.
Thanks
Marty

[Terry M.]

Re: clutch change in the car ?

The answer depends on your circumstances. How high can you get the car? Do you have a lift with access to the center of the car? What kind of engine hoisting facilities do you have?

The lift with center access makes the job a whole lot easier. I did when I changed the noisy release bearing on my 1970 some two decades after it started making noise. We followed the CSM (Chassis Service Manual) step by step and had no problems. We removed the prop shaft, trans mount, then the shifter and linkage. Be careful lowering the back of the trans -- note carefully the clearance to the distributor, if you are not too adventurous you might consider removing the distributor, but I didn't. I do think we removed the distributor shielding, but I have the early box-style shield. Note the requirement to pull the transmission to the rear and then rotate it as spelled out in the CSM. That is the part that makes having the lift a hernia saver.

Of course I did it in school with a number of eager young students -- otherwise known as slave labor. One had a broken wrist, so his task was to read the CSM step-by-step out loud to all of us. My job was to curb the enthusiasm. Removing the transmission was a piece of cake under those circumstances. As I recall the job took about three or four hours with time to clean some parts along the way. Lube the trans linkage while you are in there.

[Martyn T.]

Re: clutch change in the car ?

I have a fork lift and adjustable angle engine hauler. I'm thinking just take the whole mess out . Lot easier installing tranny, clutch etc on the ground. Sounds like doing it in the car is a wrestling match overhead. Bad shoulders don't help.
Thanks for the input.
Marty

[Terry M.]

Re: clutch change in the car ?

Pulling the engine would mean a lot more disassembly -- rad, fan, accessory drive components, exhaust, and maybe hood -- but the physical limitations of removing the transmission "on the ground" might make engine removal the path of least resistance. As I said trans removal worked for me, but I had facilities and people available that made that a no-brainer. If I had to do it myself today I might make a different decision, especially given the 25-30 years that have passed in the mean time.