Engine Painting

[Gerald C.]

I'm just about done with my 1963 327 engine.

I have some questions:

1. Is there a primer required under the orange or should I just spray the orange?
2. After the orange is on, is there a clearcoat required?
3. Should I clearcoat the unpainted parts such as the fuel pump, etc.

Thanks for your responses.

Jerry

[Jack H.]

Re: Engine Painting

It all depends on the paint you use, the cleanliness of the part(s) you're shooting and how 'faithful' you want to be vs. typical factory production norms.

At the engine plant, they used NO primer. Plus, parts that weren't present at the engine plant when the motor was painted (e.g. fuel pump, and other bolt-on items) were left natural. Each engine was shot quick and dirty with only a few SECONDS allocated to the painting time.

Coverage varied DRAMATICALLY with a number of original engines known to have little to no paint coverage in the hard to reach areas (e.g. bottom of oil pan).

So, are you making a 'Mona Lisa' that'll probably result in an 'over-restored' classification or are you doing a 'factory concours' job? If the later, then you don't want primer and you probably do want to generate uneven coverage, perhaps replete with drips/sags and thin coverage spots. Also, judges aren't blind...most can spot clear coat coverage over parts that were originally left 'natural'. Expect them to deduct for the 'foreign' finish (the clear coat) on these items...

[Paul J.]

Re: Engine Painting

Like Jack said, what's your goal? If you're going for Top Flight, then you should work toward a factory appearance, with all of the mistakes. If you want something nicer, then you can do a better job.

On my cars, including the one that I'm preparing for NCRS judging, I do not use primer (a lot of attention is paid to cleaning), I do not clear coat the orange (most high temp paints are single stage), and I clear coat all unpainted steel. Clear coating the bare metal pieces darkens them and I know that I'll get a deduction, but in my humid climate leaving them uncoated is not an option.

Paul

[Gerald C.]

Re: Engine Painting

This is a very nice driver that is not going to any judging. I just want the engine to look great and not lose its luster after a few years of driving. I live in New England so there is a humidity issue.

I may just paint the engine without a primer, clearcoat the unfinished parts and go from there.

Thanks

[Larry M.]

Re: Engine Painting

Gerald:

There are some excellent threads in the archives regarding engine paint with the best color, gloss level, durability, etc. You may want to find and read.

Also, EASTWOOD has an excellent SATIN CLEAR for metals. Almost invisible and holds up well. I can provide Item # if needed.

Larry

[Gerald C.]

Re: Engine Painting

Larry,

what is the item # you used?

Thanks

Jerry

[Larry M.]

Re: Engine Painting

Larry,

what is the item # you used?

Thanks

Jerry

Eastwood Diamond Clear Satin # 10300Z. $12.99/spray can. Good stuff!

Larry

[Edward J.]

Re: Engine Painting

Jerry, You can also spray the clear coat first then spray the orange after . leaving some bare spots in the orange to appear like the factory.I have used the eastwood satin clear is great stuff, did many parts on my 72 that were natural. keep in mind the satin clear is not a high temp paint but can be used on the tin pieces without a problem.

[Ricky M.]

Re: Engine Painting

I just bought a qt. of Eastwoods new Ceramic engine paint for my '66 327. It's supposed to be more durable for a driver. Anybody used this? Any thoughts?