69 4-speed trans rear seal

[Jim M.]

The rear seal (output shaft) is leaking. Does anyone know if this is a seal that can be replaced with the tranny in the car or does it need to come out?

[Edward J.]

Re: 69 4-speed trans rear seal

Jim, The seal can replaced with trans in the car. the problem is its not always the seal, Sometimes the bronze bushing in the tailshaft housing can wear causing a leak at the rear seal area. but certainly wouldn't hurt to try.

[Roger O.]

Re: 69 4-speed trans rear seal

Hope I don't get flamed too bad but I have replaced the bushing without removing the tailshaft.

[Michael G.]

Re: 69 4-speed trans rear seal

All,

As indicated seal can be changed with tranny in car. May be somewhat of a challenge wrangling the old seal out as seal is a press fit. Seal puller tool made for application however if one is careful can be done with screw driver. Regarding comment on the wear of bushing, when placing new seal use some sealant (many types, silcone will do) tamp in.....ready to burn rubber.....

[Edward J.]

Re: 69 4-speed trans rear seal

Mike, the problem I find with seal pullers is they have sharp ends that tend to rip through the metal part of the seals, the screw drivers works best I think. get under the metal of the seal in a few places and pry out.

Don't forgett to add some light grease to lip of seal before installing.

[Gary R.]

Re: 69 4-speed trans rear seal

Hope I don't get flamed too bad but I have replaced the bushing without removing the tailshaft.

Roger did you have the bushing tool made for this? That's about the only way I know of replacing it with the housing in the car.
The seal shouldn't be a problem to do on the car. Check the yoke for grooves if there are any then you need to either srpay weld and turn the yoke( no longer common to find a shop doing this) or replace the yoke $100.

[Michael G.]

Re: 69 4-speed trans rear seal

Mike, the problem I find with seal pullers is they have sharp ends that tend to rip through the metal part of the seals, the screw drivers works best I think. get under the metal of the seal in a few places and pry out.

Don't forgett to add some light grease to lip of seal before installing.

Totally agree with seal puller, I'm a screw driver man......one does need to excercise care using one. Damage to the aluminum tail housing can occur

[Roger O.]

Re: 69 4-speed trans rear seal

Roger did you have the bushing tool made for this? That's about the only way I know of replacing it with the housing in the car.
The seal shouldn't be a problem to do on the car. Check the yoke for grooves if there are any then you need to either srpay weld and turn the yoke( no longer common to find a shop doing this) or replace the yoke $100.

Gary I trimmed down a hacksaw blade to fit between the output shaft and bushing,teeth angled towards rear. Under the bushing is an oil return slot,I drag the blade out to make my cut through the bushing into the slot,once the bushing is cut I grab the bushing with needle nose pliers and slide it out. Shop vac and some kerosene and the tail is clean and ready for new bushing and seal.
Years ago a buddy loaned me a tool supposedly for this that attached to a slide hammer. It was a split sleeve that you slid another sleeve inside to expand to grab the end of the bushing but after I got it stuck a couple times I went back to my surgical method. LOL

[Dick W.]

Re: 69 4-speed trans rear seal

The rear seal (output shaft) is leaking. Does anyone know if this is a seal that can be replaced with the tranny in the car or does it need to come out?

It can Jim, but it is a bear if you do not have the proper tools. Kent Moore had an installer designed to do it. It was included in the dealer essential tools in the early '60's. You can make a driver out of a piece of pipe, or a socket if you have the right size

[Dick W.]

Re: 69 4-speed trans rear seal

Roger did you have the bushing tool made for this? That's about the only way I know of replacing it with the housing in the car.
The seal shouldn't be a problem to do on the car. Check the yoke for grooves if there are any then you need to either srpay weld and turn the yoke( no longer common to find a shop doing this) or replace the yoke $100.

If the yoke is worn, get a C/R Speedi Sleeve and seal. That will take care of that problem

[John H.]

Re: 69 4-speed trans rear seal

Hope I don't get flamed too bad but I have replaced the bushing without removing the tailshaft.

Roger -

Here's the special tool and sleeve to remove the bushing in-car.

[Terry M.]

Re: 69 4-speed trans rear seal

It can Jim, but it is a bear if you do not have the proper tools. Kent Moore had an installer designed to do it. It was included in the dealer essential tools in the early '60's. You can make a driver out of a piece of pipe, or a socket if you have the right size

If you know the right J-XXXXX number, and I don't, you can often find those ole Kent Moore tools on fleabey. They go for cheap now days because few people have a use for them anymore. Try looking in the back of your Chassis Overhaul Manual chapter on manual transmission overhaul for the J-XXXXX number.

[Roger O.]

Re: 69 4-speed trans rear seal

If you know the right J-XXXXX number, and I don't, you can often find those ole Kent Moore tools on fleabey. They go for cheap now days because few people have a use for them anymore. Try looking in the back of your Chassis Overhaul Manual chapter on manual transmission overhaul for the J-XXXXX number.

J 5778 is in the 73 manual but I think it is to be used with a slide hammer but not sure.

[Roger O.]

Re: 69 4-speed trans rear seal

Roger -

Here's the special tool and sleeve to remove the bushing in-car.

That looks much better than the one my buddy loaned me.

[Jim M.]

Re: 69 4-speed trans rear seal

Thanks everyone for all the suggestions. Sounds like it's a job a shade tree mechanic can do but I'm guessing it may take for then a six pack and a few choice words to get it done. I think I'll tackle it anyway but may hold off until winter when the car is going to sit for six months. Regarding that bushing, can I assume that if I don't much end shaft play that the bushing is OK?