1967 power steering

[Timothy B.]

Finished the P/S job on my 67, what a difference!! The control valve from this steering set up must have the 30lb spring, the car is fine but just a bit touchy and I would like to change to the 50lb spring.

Is this spring available from GM or aftermarket, I guess I will need to reseal the control valve to replace this part.

Any suggestions are appreciated..

[Bill W.]

Re: 1967 power steering

Finished the P/S job on my 67, what a difference!! The control valve from this steering set up must have the 30lb spring, the car is fine but just a bit touchy and I would like to change to the 50lb spring.

Is this spring available from GM or aftermarket, I guess I will need to reseal the control valve to replace this part.

Any suggestions are appreciated..

Timothy,
Changing to the higher pressure spring will help, if you change springs you should change the valve seals at the same time. I don't know of a source for the stronger spring.
Another option is to reset your tie rods into the "slow" position. This will require resetting the toe-in. Bill

[Timothy B.]

Re: 1967 power steering

Thanks Bill,

I am really happy with the power steering, it's like driving a different car. I have read about the 50lb spring used in the Corvette and want to try it.

Corvette Carlisle is coming up so maybe I can find one there.

[John H.]

Re: 1967 power steering

Another option is to reset your tie rods into the "slow" position. This will require resetting the toe-in. Bill

Bill -

Using the manual steering ("slow") position on the steering arms for the outer tie rod ends with power steering can result in over-traveling the power cylinder ram, damaging the rod seals; that's why the aluminum plug/rivets were installed in the "slow" holes on power steering cars, to prevent owners from using them.

[Bill W.]

Re: 1967 power steering

Bill -

Using the manual steering ("slow") position on the steering arms for the outer tie rod ends with power steering can result in over-traveling the power cylinder ram, damaging the rod seals; that's why the aluminum plug/rivets were installed in the "slow" holes on power steering cars, to prevent owners from using them.

John,
I read that warning, but have had my '66 in this position for about 20 years and 40K miles. No problems for me, others may not be able to get away with this.
I went to the "slow" position to get rid of a poor handling trait that appeared the day I added P/S. When driving in a spirited manner slight movement of the steering wheel had zero effect on direction of travel. A little more steering input would result in oversteer. The car was NOT fun to drive. The alignment shop here in Albuquerque is run by a old dirt track racer. He kept my car and a friend's '67 with the same symptoms, three days trying differant settings. His first solution was to raise the pump pressure, this helped some, but not enough. The final answer for both cars was the "slow" setting and slightly modified alignment specs. Both cars are now great drivers. His theory was that modern radial tires produce much more cornering grip than our old bis-ply tires, the added grip "over-powered" the stock P/S system. By returning to the slow setting we increased the leverage available to steer. In any case, this system worked for us. Bill

[Timothy B.]

Re: 1967 power steering

Bill,

That almost sounds like steering box play in the center position..

My 67 steers fine but the bias tires are terrible, since I cleaned, lubed and adjusted the steering box the car does not catch a groove in the road and move like it did before. You can still feel the groove with the bias tires, guess who will be running radials soon..

[Bill W.]

Re: 1967 power steering

Timothy,
The steering box is fine. It was one of the first things checked when this problem reared it ugly head. Bill