Head Lamp Warning Light & Switch question

[Charles P.]

I am working on a 72. My cluster headlight warning light is staying on when the headlights are turned on. The headlights appear to be fully up but when you peak underneath at the headlight warning switches on each side they are about 3/8 of an inch from the stop that activates them and turns off the warning light. I have checked all hoses and they appear intact and properly connected. I replaced the actuators recently but if I recall the light was on before this. Any ideas of a likely culprit that is causing the lights not to fully open to the switch stop? Thanks in advance.

[Roger O.]

Re: Head Lamp Warning Light & Switch question

The actuator rods could be adjusted wrong or the side arm stops could be out too far.

[Charles P.]

Re: Head Lamp Warning Light & Switch question

If the actuator rods were adjusted incorrectly should the clevis eye be threaded out farther on the rod or threaded down more towards the actuator? I wasn't thinking it could be this since I meticulously counted how many turns it was threaded when I removed it.

[Roger O.]

Re: Head Lamp Warning Light & Switch question

Charles,
To open further the clevis needs to go out.
To adjust correctly , pull the clevis pin , apply vacuum to actuator , now adjust the hole in the clevis to the furthest point out in the slot (slide the pin through to check), turn the clevis out 1/2 turn to preload , reassemble.
Now the outer arm can be adjusted with a 1- 1 1/2 turn preload so when everything locks in the headlight assembly is solid.
Roger

[Charles P.]

Re: Head Lamp Warning Light & Switch question

Thanks Roger- I got it by doing those combination of things. Patience is the key here as you must pull the springs, which are under considerable pressure, off and on a few times. I found that if i wound the clevis eye on the actuator rod out to the edge of the slot the microswitch would work but the door would remain open about a 1/2 inch or greater. If the clevis was wound too far in, the door would close but not far enough to depress the switch. I found a happy medium by backing off the far outside limit screw that has a jam nut. The door is now flush again and the switches on both sides are fully operating. If anyone reads this in a year or two and wants some advice feel free to PM.