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Replacement block

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  • Gordon P.
    Expired
    • April 21, 2010
    • 25

    Replacement block

    Due to running into a cracked engine block during a restoration finding a correct date code block has been almost impossible, due to being rare and one at an unbelivable cost. My car was built in July 1961 and has a casting number 3756519 F. I have located a block and the numbers are in a date range casting # of 3756519 with a K100 (Nov. 10, 1960 date code).
    I need recommendatios keep looking or settle for what is the period correct engine but stretch date code window. The balance of the car is date code correct.


    Gordon
  • Domenic T.
    Expired
    • January 29, 2010
    • 2452

    #2
    Re: Replacement block

    where is the crack in the block.

    DOM

    Comment

    • Gordon P.
      Expired
      • April 21, 2010
      • 25

      #3
      Re: Replacement block

      I'm told it was in the "V" two machine shops have said it could not be repaired. Car was in storage for twenty years w/o anti-freeze.

      Comment

      • Steven B.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • June 30, 1982
        • 3976

        #4
        Re: Replacement block

        Originally posted by Gordon Peters (51712)
        I'm told it was in the "V" two machine shops have said it could not be repaired. Car was in storage for twenty years w/o anti-freeze.
        Gordon, check with Garry Grimes, Grimes Automotive (Twister Engines) in Alpharetta, GA.

        Steve

        Comment

        • Gordon P.
          Expired
          • April 21, 2010
          • 25

          #5
          Re: Replacement block

          I'll give it a try thanks.

          Gord

          Comment

          • Domenic T.
            Expired
            • January 29, 2010
            • 2452

            #6
            Re: Replacement block

            Gordon,
            I have welded cast before and the right guy that doe's this for a living will fix it if the V is under the intake. I have welded 1 sucsessfully and another did not work because I was unable to pre heat the block, it was assembled. I usually stop drill the crack first. The good news is that if the crack is under the intake it is away from the water jacket. One more place to try are head repair people. There was a head exchange place in CA that used to weld heads all day long.

            DOM

            Comment

            • Joe L.
              Beyond Control Poster
              • February 1, 1988
              • 43193

              #7
              Re: Replacement block

              Originally posted by Gordon Peters (51712)
              I'm told it was in the "V" two machine shops have said it could not be repaired. Car was in storage for twenty years w/o anti-freeze.

              Gordon------


              I would not go with a welded repair. However, depending just where the crack is in the "V" (lifter valley) area, I think it could be repaired by "stitching". In this repair method holes are drilled along the crack line and tapped for special tapered plugs. Each hole overlaps the previous plugged hole. This is expensive because a lot of time is involved in performing the repair. However, this is the method most often used to repair cracks in large castings like ship engines, other large diesel engines, etc.
              In Appreciation of John Hinckley

              Comment

              • Domenic T.
                Expired
                • January 29, 2010
                • 2452

                #8
                Re: Replacement block

                Gordon,
                I saw what Joe is talking about back in 1971 and it works. It is not hard to do once you get the hang of it but that crack was not long. I welded one that was over a foot long that ran another inch or so till I stop drilled and welded from out side in.

                DOM

                Comment

                • Gordon P.
                  Expired
                  • April 21, 2010
                  • 25

                  #9
                  Re: Replacement block

                  Thanks guys I've sent your ideas to the restoration shop.
                  I'm surprised no one else has mentioned what I should do about using a date code older engine that has a casting number of 3756519 with a K100 Nov 10, 1960 date code.

                  Gordy

                  Comment

                  • Joe L.
                    Beyond Control Poster
                    • February 1, 1988
                    • 43193

                    #10
                    Re: Replacement block

                    Originally posted by Gordon Peters (51712)
                    Thanks guys I've sent your ideas to the restoration shop.
                    I'm surprised no one else has mentioned what I should do about using a date code older engine that has a casting number of 3756519 with a K100 Nov 10, 1960 date code.

                    Gordy
                    Gordy------


                    Well, it's pretty straight-forward. You could use the replacement block you suggest but it will never achieve full points in NCRS or NCCB judging. It should do better than a non 3756519 block but not as well as a properly date-coded block. You'll also lose credit for the stamp pad. All this is why we have suggested trying to save the original block if, at all, possible. If it turns out to be not possible, I think I'd still keep looking for a properly date coded block, as difficult as that might be. This block is only going to get you a very short "part way" to where I think you want to be. Even a properly date-coded block is not going to get you all the way due to the stamp pad problem but it will be worth the extra effort.
                    In Appreciation of John Hinckley

                    Comment

                    • Gordon P.
                      Expired
                      • April 21, 2010
                      • 25

                      #11
                      Re: Replacement block

                      Ok this is the type reply that I needed and have been looking for. I agree and will keep looking,at repairing or finding the correct replacement, it is very frustrating having worked so hard to keep the car correct to run into this. Body off restoration, new windshield, date code correct, replaced all the wiring, sanded off all the 80 grit paint, re-chromed everything on and on.

                      Thanks,
                      Gordy

                      Comment

                      • Gordon P.
                        Expired
                        • April 21, 2010
                        • 25

                        #12
                        Re: Replacement block

                        Great news a date code correct block was found! The block has a date code three weeks prior to the build date. Due to my searching I was also able to direct another member to a correct date code block that he has been searching for for over four years.
                        I need to go buy a lottery ticket.

                        Gordy

                        Comment

                        • Joe L.
                          Beyond Control Poster
                          • February 1, 1988
                          • 43193

                          #13
                          Re: Replacement block

                          Originally posted by Gordon Peters (51712)
                          Great news a date code correct block was found! The block has a date code three weeks prior to the build date. Due to my searching I was also able to direct another member to a correct date code block that he has been searching for for over four years.
                          I need to go buy a lottery ticket.

                          Gordy
                          Gordy------


                          You'll still lose on the stamp pad, of course. Do you happen to have any pictures of the crack area in the original block?
                          In Appreciation of John Hinckley

                          Comment

                          • Jack H.
                            Very Frequent User
                            • April 1, 2000
                            • 477

                            #14
                            Re: Replacement block

                            3756519 Block F0519 DB F/S $75
                            E180 Cast Date
                            Zip Code
                            49068

                            Noticed it here:
                            http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...f-s-cheap.html

                            Hopefully this doesn't violate rules...but after reading about how hard a block was to find, thought this may help somebody and keep a block from being scrapped.

                            Comment

                            • Dick W.
                              Former NCRS Director Region IV
                              • June 30, 1985
                              • 10483

                              #15
                              Re: Replacement block

                              Originally posted by Joe Lucia (12484)
                              Gordon------


                              I would not go with a welded repair. However, depending just where the crack is in the "V" (lifter valley) area, I think it could be repaired by "stitching". In this repair method holes are drilled along the crack line and tapped for special tapered plugs. Each hole overlaps the previous plugged hole. This is expensive because a lot of time is involved in performing the repair. However, this is the method most often used to repair cracks in large castings like ship engines, other large diesel engines, etc.
                              Joe, if he can find a shop that has an oven large enough to get the block in, and is proficient in cast welding, he should be able to repair it. The trick is finding the oven.
                              Dick Whittington

                              Comment

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