1961 Trunk Lock Problem

[Robert A.]

Old member but a new poster. And I need help!

I cannot open my trunk. Last night, when I inserted the key to open it, the key felt like it would only go into the cylinder about 3/4 of the way. The key will not go in completely "home," and hence, will not turn to the right to trip the lock mechanism.

I've tried spraying WD40 in there and I've tried jiggling the key every which way but loose. And still, the key feels like it is not going in all the way and is unable to turn the cylinder. The key is NOT broken off inside as the key is still in one piece, and there is nothing that got inside of the lock cylinder. I fear that the cylinder has broken inside and/or there is some blockage that prevents the key from sliding all the way in.

I've called several locksmiths in the area and they seem basically clueless except for telling me "the trunk has to be open in order for me to replace the lock cylinder." Well, Hello! I can't get it open! Another suggested I bring it in and he will drill it out for me, but still isn't sure he can open the trunk.

This is a Duntov Award and Bloomington Gold car (1995), so obviously I don't want to have somebody mangle it. Is there a way to remove the trunk lock cylinder and open the lock mechanism without going crazy?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Bob Amon

[Loren S.]

Re: 1961 Trunk Lock Problem

Can you pop or gently drill out the trunk bezel at the three studs (a $34 repro part)? Then you could access the trunk through the large hole when you take the trunk emblem out. Or you could try drilling the lock. I had this problem on my 59, since I was doing a body off and needed a repaint, I ended up digging a little hole right around the lock with a screwdriver and wiggled the lock out. That was pretty bubba on my part, requiring a small fiberglass repair.

[Robert A.]

Re: 1961 Trunk Lock Problem

Hi Loren,

Thanks very much for your reply and for taking the time to try to help me.

Unfortunately, the trunk emblem is an original one. Drilling it off is not a very good option because there is a difference between the real original and the repro... and the judges know it! It's in the emblem itself. I was told at the time I got my Duntov Award that the emblem is probably worth $300 (at that time). I don't even know if you can find an NOS one anymore.

So, I had a locksmith tell me today he could try to drill out the lock cylinder tumbler itself, which is what I'm probably going to have to do. I think if we could do that, then you can insert anything (a screwdriver) into it and turn it (I think). At least I hope that's the case.

This is the weirdest thing though.... the key doesn't want to go in any further than about 3/4 of the way in, yet the key is not broken off. Something in the cylinder itself is not enabling the key to go completely in. I guess was just hoping there was a way to pick the lock itself and release it from the bezel and remove the cylinder that way.

[Gary B.]

Re: 1961 Trunk Lock Problem

... I guess was just hoping there was a way to pick the lock itself and release it from the bezel and remove the cylinder that way.

Robert,

If the key won't insert, it's unlikely that a lock pick can be inserted.

Gary

[Robert A.]

Re: 1961 Trunk Lock Problem

Thanks Gary,

The key inserts up to 3/4 of the way in. I can get a paper clip all the way in there, but not the key. I was hoping somebody has had this same problem recently and can advise as to the least invasive way of doing this.

I actually loved Loren's remedy. If I had a repro emblem on the trunk I'd do it in a heartbeat. You could get your hand in there and trip the mechanism that way. I may still have to do that if all else fails.

Bob Amon

[Rod K.]

Re: 1961 Trunk Lock Problem

Bob,

I had some lock cylinders rekeyed at Carlisle last month by a locksmith from MD who seemed to know what he was doing. I watched as he solved a couple of people's problems with lock cylinders. Specializes in GM and has been at it for years. Might be worth a call.

Pat Kraus, Pat's Locks, Ltd.
Fallston, MD
410 / 879-9647

Good luck!

[Robert A.]

Re: 1961 Trunk Lock Problem

WOW! Thanks Rod. I will give Pat a call in the morning. Thanks a million.

[Chuck W.]

Re: 1961 Trunk Lock Problem

If all else fails I believe the suggestion of going through the emblem area is a good one. If you get another emblem bezel you will be able to determine exactly where the 3 studs are located that hold the assembly in place. By carefully drilling out the studs from the outside in you will only damage (ruin) the bezel ring, not the emblem itself. The assembly will fall into the trunk onto the mat and the bezel will be removed from the outside. This will give you access intot the trunk area. find someone with an small arm to work the lock from the inside.

[Steven N.]

Re: 1961 Trunk Lock Problem

I have gone through the gas tank area through the trunk divider and try to trip the lock. it worked for me. I wouldn't drill anything. Steven J.........

[Roger W.]

Re: 1961 Trunk Lock Problem

Did you try squirting lock lubricant or even WD 40 into the lock? I have had problems similar to yours with house door locks. One of the tumblers corodes and usually the lube works.

Roger

[Gary B.]

Re: 1961 Trunk Lock Problem

Bob,

I'm not familiar with the trunk lock geometry, specifically with regard to whether it uses a crimped face cap, but if it doesn't use a crimped face cap and if a new lock core is available as an NOS part that can be recoded, then I would consider drilling the lock core before I'd do anything with the trunk emblem.

Gary

[Valeria H.]

Re: 1961 Trunk Lock Problem

You might want to try a silicone spray to assist in the release of your lock. They do not impose that gumped up aspect of Dw-40 spray.

Just a thought!

Valeria

[Robert A.]

Re: 1961 Trunk Lock Problem

These are all very good suggestions fellas, and I will pursue all the non-invasive ideas first. I'll start first with a call to Pat in MD. I have also located a local locksmith who offered to take a look. If I have to get into an all-out assault on it, I'm probably going to wish I had another '61 or '62 next to mine at the time, but first things first.

Thank you all for your help so far. I will advise this board as to what I had to do and the easiest solution that worked for me. Keeping my fingers crossed!

[Mike E.]

Re: 1961 Trunk Lock Problem

Robert--
If you take one of the seats out, open up the soft top lid, and get the soft top out of the way, you can push the divider cardboard out of the way from the passenger compartment. You then have access to the trunk. Through the hinge/spring area you can extend a very long extension with a socket on it (and possibly a swivel in between) and with a steady hand and a friend shining a flashlight in through the other hinge/spring area, you can remove the two bolts that hold the U-shaped catch that fastens to the lid, and the trunk will open.
It's a "pick your poison" time--emblem/bezel/backing plate or divider panel.
Good luck! It sounds like the tumbler itself is not the issue, but the lock cylinder itself, and if that is the case, then no amount of sprays, etc. will have any effect. You'll have to get inside to begin to rectify things, and now you have several ways to accomplish that.
Good luck!
Mike

[Robert A.]

Re: 1961 Trunk Lock Problem

MY TRUNK IS OPEN!

PROBLEM SOLVED!

This morning, I went to the local locksmith who I had called yesterday. The trip paid off. I knew this guy had been in business for many years and luckily, an old-timer was minding the store this morning. I figured this is a good thing because most of the younger locksmiths today don't know squat about a 1961 Corvette. I got him to walk outside with me and here's what he did:

1) He tried my key in the lock. No luck. It only went in 3/4 of the way. He jiggled it as I had done, still no luck.

2) He sprayed WD40 into the hole (as I had done) and still no luck. We discussed drilling out the cylinder and he assured me the only thing that will be damaged is the lock cylinder. Then he could turn the bar and the trunk should release.

3) But before even going there, he walked back inside and went through his old inventory and found a key blank just like my original 1961 key. Then he cut the blank to my key code and grabbed a pair of vise grips and clamped the new key onto the end of the vice grips. He said he was doing this so that he wouldn't bend my original key. "Uh oh," I thought. "Now the fun starts."

4) Outside we go again and he inserts the new key into the cylinder and this time, with the help of the leverage of the vice grips, he pokes the key back and forth and "forces" it all the way into the cylinder until it was "home." Then he turned it to the right and PRESTO!

I will call Pat this morning and see what he says about a new trunk lock. He may have them and be able to code it for me, otherwise they are available at Corvette Central for $34.00 and the locksmith told me he could code that one for me. I see no reason to hunt down an NOS cylinder if the repro will work just as well... that's IF there are any NOS cylinders around anyway.

MANY THANKS to you guys for all your suggestions! I feel a combination of all of the above was what got me through this and Thank God I didn't have to go any farther than the above.