front seal
Need some help. I have a leak in the front seal, timing chain cover, on my 62 340hp. Need a step by step process to replace it and of course advice on how to make it easier. Thanks,
Bruce
Bruce
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Re: front seal
Is it the timing chain cover leaking or the front seal on the oil pan?
Terry -
Re: front seal
Bruce
If it is the front seal of oil pan, it is pretty simple. Drop the exhaust crossover pipes, drain the oil from the pan and then drop the oil pan amd replace with new gaskets. If it is indeed the timing chain cover, it involves supporting the engine and removing everything off the front of the engine. A step by step for that would be more typing than I can do. Did you refer to the ST-12?
Terry
If all else fails you can call me and I can explain it better than I can typeComment
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Re: front seal
If the leak is at the front of the oil pan, first question is what pan do you have? There are two different seals for the front of the pan, a thinner seal used on the originals, and a thicker seal used on service replacement pans. Much on this in the archives if you do a search, but first step is determining if the timing cover or the front of the pan is your leak source.Bill Clupper #618Comment
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Re: front seal
Bruce------
IF the leak is actually originating from the front seal which is mounted in the timing cover, then you need to do the following to repair it:
1) Remove the oil pan;
2) Remove everything on the front of the engine, including waterpump, all pullies, and harmonic balancer;
3) Remove the timing cover.
Once the cover is off the engine you need to press out the old seal. To do this without distorting the timing cover you need to properly support the area of the seal before you press it out. After you get it out, you need to completely clean the seal orifice in the cover to remove any rust or other contamination. Then, press in the new seal while properly supporting the cover. You absolutely don't want to distort the cover in any way. If you do, you'll have a leak---guaranteed.
Also, and very important, you must check the seal contact surface on the snout of the balancer for wear. Usually, this will appear as a narrow groove where the seal has worn away metal on the seal surface. If there is ANY groove, then you must address that. There are several ways of doing this:
1) Replace the balancer. If the balancer is otherwise questionable, this might be the best thing to do;
2) Install a repair sleeve on the balancer snout. This is a thin sleeve that presses on over the existing snout and provides a new seal surface. It's a little larger OD, of course, but the seal will accommodate this. The sleeve is available from just about any auto parts stores. You must use green Locktite on the snout before installing the sleeve and the sleeve MUST be driven on "straight-and-true" with absolutely no "buckling";
3) Install a special front seal with a displaced seal lip. This puts the seal lip on a fresh, non-worn portion of the snout.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: front seal
It is the seal not the oil pan gasket. It is the original pan not a replacement. it has the thinner seal. how do you support the engine since taking off the water pump requires taking off the front motor mount I think?any Idea on how mauc time this job takes? thanks for your help.
BruceComment
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Re: front seal
Bruce------
You could support the engine by first taking off the oil pan. Then, you can build a rather simple wooden cradle and support the engine from the forward main bearing cap or the oil pan surfaces using the cradle and a bottle jack. With the engine thus supported, you can remove the front engine mount.
I'd say this whole job is going to take you the better part of a day. It would take less if you were experienced doing it but it sounds like you're not and, thus, you'll have to take it slow.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: front seal
Joe,
thanks. Is there a suppoprt stand that i can buy? you are right I have some experience but have never tackled this job.
BruceComment
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In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: front seal
First, drain the coolant, then Unbolt the motor mount bolts on the front crossmember, NOT the ones holding the water pump to the block, that comes later, Pull the pan, use a block of wood and a floor or bottle jack to relieve the pressure from the crossmember, drain the coolant, and unbolt the water pump and the crossmember from the engine, remove the crankshaft pulley and the damper from the crankshaft, At that point you can inspect the area where the oil seal rides on the damper snout and likely will see a groove worn into the snout. remove the bolts from the timing cover and the timing cover and seal will come off. Get the replacement seal recommended above to move the contact point of the seal to a "good" surface, then reverse the above procedure.
St-12 is available from the NCRS store, and is a good general reference for Solid axle Corvette repairs.Bill Clupper #618Comment
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Re: front seal
Bill,
Just what I needed thanks for your help.
BruceComment
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