My 67 turn signal has a 'hair trigger', meaning if you turn on the left blinker and then turn it off, there is almost no gap until the right signal comes on. The stalk has to be precisely in the center. Many times I've thought it was off, only to look down and see the dash light blinking. How to fix?
67 turn signal
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Re: 67 turn signal
Sounds like the switch is "going south". There was a thread awhile back on switch repair. New switches are available from "SHEE-MAR"
https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...73117&uid=9106- Top
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Re: 67 turn signal
I purchased what was told to me as the last switch from Shee Mar for 67-68. They are having an issue with the base. Something is wrong with the mold. I tried to buy a switch from Paragon and Corvette Central. They use an imported switch. Both companies have back orders. CC has 26 back ordered and 26 orders! Paragon did not expect order to be filled until mid December. Thi scould be an issue moving forward. I paid nearly double for the shee mar vs import price. There is one on Ebay currently.Keith Burmeister- Top
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Re: 67 turn signal
Larry,
If your signals are fuzzy, you ought to check your brake or hazard lights, they all go through the little cam on the switch.
Take a look at this thread:
https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...witch&uid=6944
You can replace the cam with the switch on the car.
But---, if it doesn't work, you ought to have a replacement switch handy.
I wasn't aware that the new Shee-Mar Switch had a defect. That one, is the third one I've had on my car. For the last year and a half, it has worked just fine.
I think one of the problems related to replacement switches, is the screw which holds the lever onto the cam pivot. If you reuse the original screw, you'll realize that the screw is too long for the replacement switches. The aluminum pivot is just not threaded deeply enough.
Just try a shorter screw and with a lock washer to give it some constant hold down force.
Larry, if the signal lever is loose, and will move fore and aft, that just may be your problem. Maybe it is just a matter of tightening the lever screw.Jerry Fuccillo
1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968- Top
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Re: 67 turn signal
My 67 turn signal has a 'hair trigger', meaning if you turn on the left blinker and then turn it off, there is almost no gap until the right signal comes on. The stalk has to be precisely in the center. Many times I've thought it was off, only to look down and see the dash light blinking. How to fix?
KEN65 350 TI CONV 67 J56 435 CONV,67,390/AIR CONV,70 454/air CONV,
What A MAN WON'T SPEND TO GIVE HIS ASS A RIDE- Top
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Re: 67 turn signal
If a new flasher didn't solve the problem, then you'll need to clean ALL the contacts in the circuits. Don't forget the ground connections thruout the car. That solved many of my dim/slow flash problems.- Top
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Re: 67 turn signal
The blink rate is determined by the flasher AND the lamp(s) installed. You start first with a correct factory original flasher which should be spelled out in your copy of the Judging Guide. Flashers were designed to work with a SPECIFIC lamp as different lamps have slightly different filament resistance characteristics. Do NOT be fooled by modern day 'substitute' lamps advertized as being 'compatible' with the factory originals!!!
Then, you CONFIRM what lamps you actually have installed and compare to the lamp specs published in your copy of the owner's manual. I've seen time and time again, people ignore this aspect since the lamp came as an ASSEMBLY, fresh from GM or they installed an 'equivalent' set of lamps they bought from their FLAPS...
One chapter member BET me I was wrong since his '63 wouldn't blink at the correct rate. Right as rain, when he went through the exercise of pulling a tail light lens and removing the lamp that was installed inside, it was NOT a correct original No. 1034...
Once he 'gutted' the car of its existing lamps and replaced them with real McCoy 1034's, guess what? Yep, the flasher blink rate 'suddenly' became correct! I enjoyed my free lunch and beer...- Top
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Re: 67 turn signal
The blink rate is determined by the flasher AND the lamp(s) installed. You start first with a correct factory original flasher which should be spelled out in your copy of the Judging Guide. Flashers were designed to work with a SPECIFIC lamp as different lamps have slightly different filament resistance characteristics. Do NOT be fooled by modern day 'substitute' lamps advertized as being 'compatible' with the factory originals!!!
Then, you CONFIRM what lamps you actually have installed and compare to the lamp specs published in your copy of the owner's manual. I've seen time and time again, people ignore this aspect since the lamp came as an ASSEMBLY, fresh from GM or they installed an 'equivalent' set of lamps they bought from their FLAPS...
One chapter member BET me I was wrong since his '63 wouldn't blink at the correct rate. Right as rain, when he went through the exercise of pulling a tail light lens and removing the lamp that was installed inside, it was NOT a correct original No. 1034...
Once he 'gutted' the car of its existing lamps and replaced them with real McCoy 1034's, guess what? Yep, the flasher blink rate 'suddenly' became correct! I enjoyed my free lunch and beer...
THANKS65 350 TI CONV 67 J56 435 CONV,67,390/AIR CONV,70 454/air CONV,
What A MAN WON'T SPEND TO GIVE HIS ASS A RIDE- Top
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