Rear Main Seal Tool
I started a thread two weeks ago about a rear main seal in a small block (L79) that was hard to get out (think someone RTV'd it to the block). I had started out to change the timing chain but knew the rear main was leaking and since I had to remove the pan thought 'why not'.
I got a lot of good suggestions on removing the top half of the seal but none of them worked and we bunged up one side trying to tap it out (Brass punch, hardwood dowel, etc.). I finally decided I had to drop the mains. That dropped the crank 1/2" front and 1/16" at the rear main. With that I still couldn't get it out. Thought we were going to have to drop the trans, clutch and bell housing.
In desperation I made a tool. 3/8" flat blade screw driver from Lowe's for $5. I flattened the shank and ground it down with a dremel to 1/16" in thickness, shaped it over 2 1/2" pipe to the curvature of the seal and retempered it. Hopefully a thumbnail is attached. I was able to tap it between the groove in the seal and the block and slowly tap it 1/2 around the diameter of the seal and that freed it enough that it started to rotate out as I pulled the tool out and I was able to get vice grips on it.
I just thought that anyone with a leaking rear seal who is thinking about changing it might want to file this away. Hope it might help someone in the future.
Hopefully this story will have a happy ending- I will start the car this weekend. Per everyone's recommendations used a Cloyes double roller chain, FP 2912 flouroelastomeric seal, Ultra black carefully applied and FP one piece pan gasket (yes, if I restore the car for judging I will have to change that but I hate oil leaks). Thanks to all for advice.
I got a lot of good suggestions on removing the top half of the seal but none of them worked and we bunged up one side trying to tap it out (Brass punch, hardwood dowel, etc.). I finally decided I had to drop the mains. That dropped the crank 1/2" front and 1/16" at the rear main. With that I still couldn't get it out. Thought we were going to have to drop the trans, clutch and bell housing.
In desperation I made a tool. 3/8" flat blade screw driver from Lowe's for $5. I flattened the shank and ground it down with a dremel to 1/16" in thickness, shaped it over 2 1/2" pipe to the curvature of the seal and retempered it. Hopefully a thumbnail is attached. I was able to tap it between the groove in the seal and the block and slowly tap it 1/2 around the diameter of the seal and that freed it enough that it started to rotate out as I pulled the tool out and I was able to get vice grips on it.
I just thought that anyone with a leaking rear seal who is thinking about changing it might want to file this away. Hope it might help someone in the future.
Hopefully this story will have a happy ending- I will start the car this weekend. Per everyone's recommendations used a Cloyes double roller chain, FP 2912 flouroelastomeric seal, Ultra black carefully applied and FP one piece pan gasket (yes, if I restore the car for judging I will have to change that but I hate oil leaks). Thanks to all for advice.
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