BB shielded plug wires

[Mike R.]

I have heard that the dated repro shielded plug wires are carbon core and are not the most reliable wires. What kind of wire do the Delco sets use? Does anyone sell the shielding separately?

If I use a resistor plug and stock shielding, can I use solid Packard 440 wire without upseting my TI?

Mike

[Joe L.]

Re: BB shielded plug wires

I have heard that the dated repro shielded plug wires are carbon core and are not the most reliable wires. What kind of wire do the Delco sets use? Does anyone sell the shielding separately?

If I use a resistor plug and stock shielding, can I use solid Packard 440 wire without upseting my TI?

Mike

Mike------


The original big block wires were carbon core. So, if the reproductions are carbon core, there would not be any difference in that respect. However, I have heard of quality problems with the reproduction big block wire sets. The GM/Delco wires were discontinued quite some time ago.

At least some of the shielding pieces are sold separately. For a big block, the only shielding pieces necessary are those associated with the distributor "box".

I don't think that the use of solid core wiring will have any effect, at all, on TI operation. It will, however, have serious effects on your radio operation (and the operation of nearby car radios).

[William C.]

Re: BB shielded plug wires

The Delco sets originally used a linen strength member with a graphite-impregnated rayon braided exterior, a system discontinued several years ago in favor of a conductive silicone center core. What the reproductions are using is anyone's guess depending on the supplier for the base cable which the repop outfit prints and cuts and assembles to spec. The strip and fold process used with conductive silicone can be tricky to master.

[Wayne M.]

Re: BB shielded plug wires

.... Does anyone sell the shielding separately? If I use a resistor plug and stock shielding, can I use solid Packard 440 wire without upseting my TI? ...

Mike -- by "shielding" are you referring to the braided covering on the wires themselves ? I've been told that you can re-thread stock replacement plug wiring through old wire shielding, similar to working a Chinese finger trap puzzle. I tried a small portion on one of my wires and can see how it can be done, although no doubt a laborious process.

[William C.]

Re: BB shielded plug wires

The original shielding was actually braided over the completed wire, after the boots and nipples were installed. I don't know of any method available to duplicate that process easily.

[William C.]

Re: BB shielded plug wires

Easiest way is to remove the boot from the sparkplug end, the act like it's a "Chinese handcuff" and slide the shielding off over the sparkplug terminal end. The right angle terminal at the distributor end pretty much eliminates that end from this approach.

[Joseph M.]

Re: BB shielded plug wires

Slightly off the original post, but what is the "life" expectancy of original braided plug wires? I have the original set on my 67.

[William C.]

Re: BB shielded plug wires

As long as they retain continunity at approximately 5000 ohms per foot of length, and are not leaking (misfires under load) they are ok, Life expectancy is related to heat cycles, damage and other issues that on a seldom-driven vehicle do not come into play in the manner that a normal passenger car experiences.

[Stephen L.]

Re: BB shielded plug wires

I "rebuilt" my 67 BB shielded wiring. I purchased a set of new aftermarket wires and the shield was very different... different weave and lustre... easy to pick out. I did install them on the car and subsequently I had a "miss" Evidently the insulation was leaking to the shielding. They went back on the shelf.....

At any rate, I "made" a new set of wires. I purchased some bulk Packard 440 solid wire (not carbon). I reused the grey boots at the plugs and the rt angle black boots at the cap.

Because the original wires were junk IMHO, I just cut the ends off, removed the boots and cut the 440 wires to length. The original shielding slid right off the old wires and, as stated in earlier posts, went on like a "chinese finger".

I did have to purchase a tool (mildly expensive) to properly crimp the new metal connectors onto the wires. The connectors are available from NAPA.

Now I have a great looking set of original wires that do not "miss". If you are patient, you can even "date code" the wires, tedious, but possible.