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Cast Iron Powerglide expertise

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  • Peter V.
    Expired
    • June 2, 2008
    • 116

    Cast Iron Powerglide expertise

    My '61 Powerglide "seeps" fluid, worst after sitting a bit. Added some dye to the tranny fluid and found several "seepage" points, not all fixable unless the tranny is pulled. Estimate from the tranny shop is $500-$600 to remove and redo the seals. Car has leaked approximately one quart this driving season total (approx/ 1000 miles of use). Easy to keep an eye on by checking regularly, but annoying since the car doesn't leak anything else. Rebuilt tranny (not sure when) performs fine at all times.
    Both shops who quoted warned of future leaks even if the seals were re-done, especially around o-rings.
    Rather not spend the money, but would really appreciate a "dry" garage floor. Any thoughts?
  • Mike M.
    NCRS Past President
    • May 31, 1974
    • 8365

    #2
    Re: Cast Iron Powerglide expertise

    Fatsco tranny shop in norther new jersey cured my PG problems. they add in hemmings.mike

    Comment

    • Peter V.
      Expired
      • June 2, 2008
      • 116

      #3
      Re: Cast Iron Powerglide expertise

      Thanks, Mike. Did they do the work or just sell you the right parts?

      Peter

      Comment

      • Mike M.
        NCRS Past President
        • May 31, 1974
        • 8365

        #4
        Re: Cast Iron Powerglide expertise

        i removed the cast iron pig , for a third time, drove to northern new jersey, dropped the pg off, drove back a week later and brought it home. a local tranny rebuilder, who i consider the best in western md, tried twice to get it right. after the pg grenaded the 2nd time, i pulled it and took it to NJ. 2300 frogskins in jersey and it works great. old 57, the current Restorer cover car,Duntov'd with the fatsco rebuild. Salty rebuild but done right. mike

        Comment

        • Randy G.
          Expired
          • April 1, 2006
          • 358

          #5
          Re: Cast Iron Powerglide expertise

          I just rebuilt my '54 Powerglide myself using Roy Braatz video as a guide and relying on my experience rebuilding our B&J planetary racing transmissions for my TA/FC. I replaced all the seals and gaskets, the vacuum modulator, clutches and steels in the drum, had one band relined and I replaced the front pump bushing. Rather than putting the gaskets in dry like they tell you to do I always moisten them with a thin film of tranny fluid which squeezes itself out in assembly. Suspect areas get DOW Corning 111 non-setting silicon. Seals get lubed with 70wt Valvoline Nitro racing oil that we buy by the drum. Zero leaks, and I don't shut it off in park!

          If it were mine I would check to see if Lucas Oil makes a tranny stop leak and give it a try. I had a power steering leak a few years ago in one of our cars so I threw some Lucas Power Steering pump stop leak in it and it worked.

          Comment

          • Peter V.
            Expired
            • June 2, 2008
            • 116

            #6
            Re: Cast Iron Powerglide expertise

            Randy,

            Thanks. I will see if anyone makes a sealing product that performs well.

            Not sure what you meant by "I don't shut it off in park". Am I missing something?

            Comment

            • Randy G.
              Expired
              • April 1, 2006
              • 358

              #7
              Re: Cast Iron Powerglide expertise

              Originally posted by Peter Vangsness (49065)
              Randy,

              Thanks. I will see if anyone makes a sealing product that performs well.

              Not sure what you meant by "I don't shut it off in park". Am I missing something?
              Early cast iron Powerglides are notorious for "puking" fluid through the dipstick tube after a drive. Especially the 53-54 variety. It is because the valve body allows the converter to dump the fluid back into the reservoir when the engine is shut off. Roy Braatz brought it to our attention. The tranny will throw a quart or more on the ground if the fluid is hot when you turn the key off. It happened to me a few times and it's no fun knowing tranny fluid is flamable and it's dumping on your hot exhaust pipe.

              By shutting it off in drive or nuetral rather than park keeps this from happening because of the position of the rod in the valve body. Just remember to set the parking brake. After it cools you can shift it to park. I don't think a later '61 tranny will have that problem.

              Randy

              Comment

              • Peter V.
                Expired
                • June 2, 2008
                • 116

                #8
                Re: Cast Iron Powerglide expertise

                Randy,

                Thanks for the info - you're right, the '61 tranny is not subject to that "puking' after a drive, but I did see a bit of fluid on the exterior of the dipstick shaft recently. Alsof ound seepage around two or three other locations of seals.
                Lucas makes a product to help "seal" automatic transmissions.
                Do you (or anyone else) have direct experience with this (or similar) product??

                Appreciate your help!

                Peter

                Comment

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