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Re: My Dad's 67, I need lots of advice!
Lawrence,
your body shop should have all the answers on materials to be used. If not then concider him honest and find one that knows fiber glass and how to correctly repair/paint it.
I have favorite products I use and repair methods I use. Others use similar methods and also swear by them.
If glass is not done right you will see it before a year is up. Shrinking, photographing,and spider web cracks re apearing.
I chose to fix what is there but sometimes you need a new panel. Get one that was molded inner and outer with uniform thickness and less resin. The strength is in the glass not the resin. The resin will crack when used for smoothness or strength.
DOM -
Re: My Dad's 67, I need lots of advice!
my advice is to load car on trailer and move to florida where you are so you can keep an eye on work and if problems develop down the line you are near the shop the that did work. Also maybe someone on forum can recommend shops that do great work without costing your retirement fund. good luck and it looks like a nice car you have worth doing right.Michael
70 Mulsanne Blue LT-1
03 Electron Blue Z06Comment
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Re: My Dad's 67, I need lots of advice!
The new shop brought that up actually about the shrinking and cracks. I was just wondering if there was a specific types/brands of material that should be used on the body so that I can tell the body shop. I was thinking about buying a new panel since it looks like the guy prior tried to glass in a replacement lower front panel. My thought was that it might save a bunch of time/labor/cost on the entire job. Is there any vendor you guys recommend that are as close to original as possible? I do have a close friend who I trust watching over it as she gets done. I would trailer it down here but I'm confident in the guys working on it now.
LarryComment
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Re: My Dad's 67, I need lots of advice!
It is important to lock down all repairs with epoxy primer on the whole car. I also have a trick that has worked 100% of the time and has been time tested for 40+ years on my vette. V grind any crack you can't repair from the back side and fill it with JB weld that you get in the auto parts store.
DOMComment
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Re: My Dad's 67, I need lots of advice!
Using a polyester primer is the most important thing when done. Most others including gel coat will not chemically bond to the original fiberglass, a sprayed polyester primer will. Proper cleaning and annealing of the fibgerlass to remove any old fluids that will cause issues is the next most important. That will with polyester primer will ensure you never have any issues down the road for decades.
I would do my best to save the original fender, even if it costs more than a reproduction in repairs.Comment
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Re: My Dad's 67, I need lots of advice!
I've already started with these guys, and so far so good. The other thing in my favor is that I'm an airline pilot so I can jump up to NY anytime I have too. Not to mention that lately JFK overnights are the only thing I've been able to fly lately
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My part in all of this is too find all the correct parts to put her back together. I chose to do that way to insure only the correct quality parts are used. My list so far is;
1. Bolts and hardware for (Bumpers, door handles, locks, gas lid, tail lights, window trim, antena mast, wiper arms) Possibly a complete kit, I'm still not sure if it's worth going original, stamp correctly repo, or just a plain old body bolt kit i've seen sold on the internet.
2. Weather Striping ALL (any recommended vendors?)
3. Re plating Bumpers, door handles, gas lid, ect. (I talked to Richard Fortier about some of this) I know I have the original Chrome and I'm definitely interested in saving what I can instead of new repo stuff.
4. Gaskit kit for all the above
Do you guys have any recommendations of trusted vendors for this stuff?
LarryComment
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Re: My Dad's 67, I need lots of advice!
Let us in on who's currently doing the work for you.Jack Corso
1972 Elkhart Green LT-1 Coupe 43,200 miles
Top Flight 1994, 2018 & 2021Comment
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Re: My Dad's 67, I need lots of advice!
I'm having the body work done by Cannon Collision located by Robert Chevrolet. They have just about finished the front repairs and I'm getting ready for paint. I have a question for you guys. What type of paint should I go with? I'm not planning on having my car judged, but I don't want to take away from it either. I know there are many different types of paint (Polyurethane, Acrylic Lacquer, Water Based). What is the general consensus on paint type for restorations?
Thanks,
LarryComment
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Re: My Dad's 67, I need lots of advice!
Larry, you said in your original post that the car was a 327, but it appears to be a BB. You also talk about it being a survivor, but the engine has been replaced and so has the paint.
With respect to originality, you have to make a decision with the paint. Do you want an original looking lacquer (if you can find it) paint job with all of the orange peel and limited reflectivity? Or do you want a show car base coat/clear coat finish that will show well (everywhere but NCRS). Or do you want something in between? The lacquer will not last as long, especially if it spends any time outside. The BC/CC will not judge well at an NCRS event but will show well and improve the salability if you ever sell it.
All of the types of paint can be made to look original if the painter is talented enough. But I think your first choice is whether you want a single stage or BC/CC finish. I was going to give you some links to the archives but there is just too much to list. Check out the archives for this. There is also a lot of information on the brands of paint preferred.
PaulComment
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Re: My Dad's 67, I need lots of advice!
Hi Paul,
The BB hood was added by my Father, so I'm just keeping it that way. As far as a surviver, that's what I've been told. My goal is to make it a weekend driver and occasional car meet. I want to get the color as close to original as posible to the Lacquer. I'm leaning towards the BC/CC. My biggest fear is making a mistake on paint choice and taking away from the car. I'll search in the archives, thanks for the suggestion.
LarryComment
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Re: My Dad's 67, I need lots of advice!
Your painter may need to tint the paint to match the original color.
https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...color&uid=1282Comment
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Re: My Dad's 67, I need lots of advice!
Lawrence,
If you still have the small block hood have the painter paint it also at the same time the car is painted.
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Re: My Dad's 67, I need lots of advice!
I've done several of my cars in the CRAP laquer that's available now over the years and from now on (as it has been for the last 10 yrs or so for me) it's BC/CC all the way. The laquer that's commercially available now is a sorry substitute for what was originally put on the cars. Unlike the original, thanks to the foolishness of the EPA all the lead is removed. Anything you buy now is incorrect. Also, I have yet to see any new available laquer in a metallic that has similar flakes to the originals. If it's going to be wrong anyway it may as well be wrong to the superior side instead of the inferior............... at least that's my thinkin'. 'Course as I've gotten older and grumpier I've gotten to the point of restorin' everything I do to meet my preferences rather than anybody else's.
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