marking balancer
what is the easiest way to mark the balancer at 90-180-270 degrees with fan, belt ect still on the car. I'm adjusting valves on LT1 motor. I take it they should be 20/26 from all the archives.
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Re: marking balancer
I used a piece of masking tape. Mark 0 degrees on both ends and divide the length by 4 and mark the tape. To rotate the engine the easy way, put the transmission in fourth and push on the front tire. Easy to make exact adjustments. -
Re: marking balancer
I'm in the process of doing the same thing on my 63. However, I want my markings to be a little more permanent on the balancer (say 4 or 5 years). I have a Mylar degreed tape to apply (see recent thread). I expect to have to apply it from under the car in order to be up close and personal as far as accuracy and placement. I will then spray it with clear epoxy paint to seal it from the elements. If I proceed from there with the adjustment, rocking the car is not an option as it will be on ramps, so I will attempt to bar the engine over either from above using a socket and flex head bar or possibly below. The later would have me doing a position change (below to top) at least 8 times. Don't know if this old man can manage that in one day. I won't use my remote start switch though.
One disadvantage to not adjusting the valves with the engine running (a minor one at that) is that, if you have an badly worn rocker, it will let you know real quick by punching a hole in your feeler gauge. Don't ask me how I know.
Stu FoxComment
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Re: marking balancer
Stu, I improvised last night on this
I used a cloth tape measure to get the circumfrence from TDC mark. mine came out to 25.5 in. divided by 4 is 6.3/8 every 90dgs.
by pulling the plugs I was able to rotate the engine using the front bolt and some elbow grease. mine is on ramps as well.
for my LT1 I did the exhaust at .026 and intake at .020. hope this is correct,saw lots of different #s on this.
my rockers seemed really loose, some a 1/2 turn. going to run it later today. I've been burning very rich, hopefully this resolves that.Comment
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Re: marking balancer
Vincent;
Some good points. I see that Duke recommend using masking tape too, and perhaps that may be best as it's not as if we do this every week. However, if you are not sure what will work best for you (?) then maybe you will want to re-adjust later. I don't know LT-1's. My 63 with the Duntov always performs best adjusted to .008" (I) and .016" (E). Earlier years they used to recommend .012" and .018", then changed to .008" and .018", but I've always used my values since on my 57 and 58 Vette engines back in the day, and that always worked best. They are quiet, and seem to provide the best performance. I had my 58 fuelie in a 56 chevy post with glaspaks and it would blow smoke rings when idled down. Loved it.
I don't see how a valve adjustment on your LT-1 will cure an over rich condition. Believe you'll have to look to carburetion for that answer.
Stu FoxComment
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Re: marking balancer
That LT-1 info may be in the archives.
I think it's been posted to find the camshaft clearance ramp height and multiply by 1.5, this is correct valve adjustment. That way all the slack is taken up by the end of the ramp..
If Duke reads this he will probably have the figures for the LT-1 cam.Comment
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Re: marking balancer
There was a thread on this subject in the last week.
The proper clearance specs are in the Hinckley/Williams paper - 9/08 revision. A link to it has been posted several times.
DukeComment
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Re: marking balancer
I got it Duke, 021"(intake) 026" (exhaust) my feeler gauge only has 020" not 021", so I'm going with that. Cheap gage I guess.
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Re: marking balancer
No, you don't have it. Those recommendations were NOT in the 9/08 revision.
DukeComment
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Re: marking balancer
how about 016"/023"
the other figures were from your original document, my bad.Comment
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