Re: Engine paint using DP90 primer
I have to admit it's been awhile since I painted an engine. Paint specs have likely changed to please Big Brother...the result is probably aerosol paint that has less pigment and less "hiding" ability. If your only option is water base paint because of where you live, you are truly unfortunate.
Paint manufacturers want to sell you as many products as they can; therefore, the back of spray cans recommend primer, and now, usually a cleaning product too.
Unless I'm finishing bare wood or steel (engine iron an exception), I usually disregard such "instructions" as marketing. I haven't experienced any problems.
Plastikote engine enamel (if you can still buy it), is the exception: their instructions tell you to clean the surface and spray it on directly...no primer. They say it's good to 500 deg. If you're going to use a primer, better use one that's similarly rated. Also...IF you feel you HAVE to use a DP primer (confirm the temperature rating), at least use DP74...it's red oxide color is closer to the final color than black (or gray).
I'm actually not trying to convince anyone not to use primer. But...I feel someone asking the question should be aware of possible consequences if they are having the car judged. My objective was to keep engine appearance as close to factory as possible, and Flint didn't use primer. But, like Gene said, maybe over-restoration is now acceptable as the new "normal", and in that case there are no consequences.
If you are building a custom hot rod engine with aftermarket paint colors...then slicker is better; primer and multiple wet coats are cool.
I have to admit it's been awhile since I painted an engine. Paint specs have likely changed to please Big Brother...the result is probably aerosol paint that has less pigment and less "hiding" ability. If your only option is water base paint because of where you live, you are truly unfortunate.
Paint manufacturers want to sell you as many products as they can; therefore, the back of spray cans recommend primer, and now, usually a cleaning product too.

Plastikote engine enamel (if you can still buy it), is the exception: their instructions tell you to clean the surface and spray it on directly...no primer. They say it's good to 500 deg. If you're going to use a primer, better use one that's similarly rated. Also...IF you feel you HAVE to use a DP primer (confirm the temperature rating), at least use DP74...it's red oxide color is closer to the final color than black (or gray).
I'm actually not trying to convince anyone not to use primer. But...I feel someone asking the question should be aware of possible consequences if they are having the car judged. My objective was to keep engine appearance as close to factory as possible, and Flint didn't use primer. But, like Gene said, maybe over-restoration is now acceptable as the new "normal", and in that case there are no consequences.
If you are building a custom hot rod engine with aftermarket paint colors...then slicker is better; primer and multiple wet coats are cool.

Comment