1100693 Alternator stator question 110

[Timothy B.]

In the process of cleaning my alternator I used acetone to remove some overspray paint on a portion of the coated stator windings. By accident I removed a very small varnish covering a piece of the copper winding.

Do I have a problem here, the spot is maybe 1/4" that I can see but I don't want to make a mistake.

How can you tell a 51-61 amp rotor/stator parts verses the 37 amp parts?

Thanks for the advice, Tim

[Wayne M.]

Re: 1100693 Alternator stator question 110

....How can you tell a 51-61 amp rotor/stator parts verses the 37 amp parts? .....

Tim -- can't speak to the lack of varnish on windings, but I have examined original stators out of 37 amp and 42 amp 10DN style alternators, and I have an NOS 1959381 (services 37 amp [maybe even Corvair 32 amp] through 42 amp -- I think a real 37 amp stator was production only), as well as a rare NOS 1964122 ('65 C60 w/K66). Tried side-by-side comparisons as well as counting the wires per loop bundle until I got dizzy -- darned if I could see any difference.

BTW, if you decide to touch up the bare copper spots with varnish, don't forget to also do a spritz of black on the exposed laminations between case halves .

[Domenic T.]

Re: 1100693 Alternator stator question 110

Tim,
In high school I worked part time re-winding electric motors. Most were very large and the AMP ratings were related to the wire size and the amount of turns.
There was a limited space for the wire to fit in so the thicker the wire the fewer the windings.
I converted my 37 AMP to 55 AMP by switching stator & rotor from another.
When we burned a motor in the burnout furnace to free the wire of varnish we measured the wire diameter and counted the windings so we could go back the same HP and RPM.
I have a 37 AMP stator that I can measure wire size on and hope the stator wasn't mixed in the rebuild shops as they mixed starter parts.
I will do it today when I go to the shop.

If the acetone didn't penetrate into the windings you should be fine.
You can use varnish but I use clear epoxy and heat it with a heat gun to thin it out and penetrate deep in the windings before it cures.

DOM

[Timothy B.]

Re: 1100693 Alternator stator question 110

Thanks Wayne and Domenic.

I think I will take the altermnator and have it tested before I install in the car.

Wayne, I have a good condition 1100628 alternator that's never been apart, you can still read the dates on the diodes. I seperated the case halves yeaterday to look for this black paint on the stator and sure enough it's there just as clear as can be.. I did the 1100693 alternator like this and it looks real nice.

[Gerard F.]

Re: 1100693 Alternator stator question 110

Tim,

Take a look at this thread from the archives on the subject:
https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...works&uid=1956

(The photos are still in the archives, but the links are gone, I hope only temporarily)

But as described in the thread, I replaced the rotor and stator in my 67 37 Amp Alternator with a higher capacity rotor and stator. The insulation on the original was black, and the exposed rim around the stator was also black.

Dom is correct. Although I didn't notice it when I did the post, the difference is in the wire size and number of windings in the stator. I believe the wire size was heavier in the 61 Amp stator that was used. Don't remember which way the windings differed, but there was a difference in the number of loops.

[Domenic T.]

Re: 1100693 Alternator stator question 110

Tim,
I just got back from the shop with the measurements, and can only say as you have read, this is believed to be a 37 amp and a 55amp that I measured.

It seems that the wire size increases with the amp out put (makes sence).

The 67- 37 amp stator wire size over the varnish was apx .055 and the 55amp was apx .059.

The rotor on the 55amp looks like it has heavier wire than the 37 amp but it is next to impossible to measure.

DOM