1965 Top Frame Adjustment

[Gary J.]

Re: 1965 Top Frame Adjustment

I would also suggest studing the "Assembly Instruction Manual" for a job to be done correctly. I would think that all of the "correct" measurements would be there.

Do you still have your old orginal top? If so take pictures of it to use as a reference.

Since you have a Al Knock top you will need to change the windlace at the top of the windshield. The one that Al supplies is totally wrong. Why he can't do this right is beyond me. If you have your orginal top you will see the difference.

I am sure others will chime in on what else to correct.

[Michael G.]

Re: 1965 Top Frame Adjustment

Gary B., no slack is left when putting the top on. Should this be done will only leave you with a top that appears "loose". When fastened into place want the top taunt. Snap into place and let top "naturally" relax.

Gary J., Assembly instruction manual doesn't have "jack" regarding measurements that would aid in assembly of new top. Old top isn't a great deal of help as it's a 45 year old that's well worn out. I'm not avocating use of Al Knoch tops however the reference points they have furnished placing the pads makes it somewhat "bullet" proof in locating positions of bows. The windlace furnished with my top wasn't too difficult to emulate the original "tucked" corners. It's all in how you position the windlace at the leading of the header....slightly, progessively start tucking the windlace at the corners. Mine passed NCRS muster as of late.

[Gary B.]

Re: 1965 Top Frame Adjustment

Gary B., no slack is left when putting the top on. Should this be done will only leave you with a top that appears "loose". When fastened into place want the top taunt. Snap into place and let top "naturally" relax.

Thank you. I thought I remembered somethig about when the cars were delivered the top was a bit loose and did flop. That is for the first year as it did tighten up.

I wonder id original owners remember back when....... ?

[Chuck G.]

Re: 1965 Top Frame Adjustment

George,

To echo what Chuck had to allow, the new strips are narrower....no big deal as they still fit in the channels. In my case used 3M Weatherstrip glue, sold most auto supply stores. Strips for the header are much thinner than original. Play with it before you cut and glue....as stated before, measure twice. Lastly, we used a Arrow T-50 (fairly heavy duty stapler) to staple pads into place. You will want to tamp the staples down flush, if not they will show through the top.

And to add yet ONE MORE THING (just like Columbo on the old TV series ) I'd also suggest that you use a heavy duty electric stapler.

I'm not familiar with the model that Michael cites. Could be that's what it is.

It's very tough to try to staple with one of those hand held jobbies that you use to tack insulation to 2x4's and furring strips. You need the power of a HD electric stapler. Makes things MUCH easier.

Don't ask how I know this.

Chuck

[Michael G.]

Re: 1965 Top Frame Adjustment

I'd also suggest that you use a heavy duty electric stapler.

Chuck

Chuck,
I burned up my electric stapler within the first 50 to 60 staples . Switched to the Arrow T-50 HD manual stapler. Be prepared to have your hand over the head of the stapler (pressing downward) to aid in driving the staple into the tack strip. Small hammer to tamp staple flush.

[George C.]

Re: 1965 Top Frame Adjustment

Chuck, Michael, Gary and Gary,
Wow, great responses from all, thank you for all your help. I won't have all this in correct order, but here is some additional information.
I ordered the tack strips from Wilcox Corvette, the same folks I got my Al Knoch top kit from. The tack strips are correct repro, and are a fiber board, pressed cardboard makeup. They really do like like the originals. I will find out more about their size when I try to install them in the morning. I have both contact cement and weatherstrip adhesive so I should be good to go with that.
I have an air stapler with 3/8 & 1/2 inch stainless staples, purchased for the Wife's Beetle top project I mentioned early in this thread. I also have the AK video on the way, borrowed from a CF member, and have been reading the Rowley instructions available on-line. And I have also read the assembly manual and the service manual as suggested. I didn't find any dimensions, but good information.
The two things I am striving for is getting the rear bow to sit tight on the deck, I have been adjusting that and have it pretty close now. The other thing is the windlace for the header. The one on my old top stuck out like airplane wings. I just dug out the old Winter 07/08 Restorer and drooled over the pictures of that original top 67, I am assuming the 65 should look the same. I am not sure how many hours I am away from getting to the windlace, but if I can get it to fit like yours Micheal, I will be more than happy.
Thank you all again, I 'll keep you posted.
George

[George C.]

Re: 1965 Top Frame Adjustment Updated

Hi Guys.
Well here is a quick update. The frame adjustment is complete, the top pads are installed, and I have the top about 1/2 installed. This is an Al Knoch top and a forum member was kind enough to loan me his video to learn how to do the install. So far things are going well, but much more slowly than thought, due to other activities
I am ready to attach the front of the top to the header bow and have a question;
In the Al Knoch video the top is not glued to the header bow, merely pulled over and stapled. In the Rowley instructions, available on-line, the top is glued to the header bow and the header tack strip. What is your preference and experience?
I really want to do this just once, and really want to see what others are doing.
Thank you,
George

[Timothy B.]

Re: 1965 Top Frame Adjustment

George,

Wait and see what others say but I would be concerned about the glue bleeding through discoloriing the top material.

[George C.]

Re: 1965 Top Frame Adjustment

Timothy,
Thanks for the response. I am also leaning towards just stapling it, even though the Assembly manual and the Rowley Corvette instructions say to glue it.
In todays market Al Knoch is the leader, I think, in top replacements, he says staples, so I am thinking his instructions are the way to go.
Thank you again,
George

[George C.]

Re: 1965 Convertible Top Install

Hi Guys
I am making progress, decided to go ahead and just staple the top to the front header bow. I followed AK instructions and the top is completely stapled to the front header bow tack strip. I think it came out very well; I will post a couple of photos tomorrow.
Thanks to all the posts on this and the CF site I think this will be a pretty nice install. It hasn't really taken all that long in actual work time but has been over a month since I started the job.
Now my dilemma turns to the header bow windlace. The one I received in the kit from Al Knoch has 1/2 foam, and seems too short to be able to tuck the ends in even if I take it apart and taper the foam on the ends. If anyone has successfully installed one of these please let me know how.
I guess otherwise I need to wait til Tuesday and give AK a call, and order the "other" type I read about in the archives.
Thank you all for the assistance along the way,
George

[George C.]

Re: 1965 Top Frame Adjustment

Ok, one more update. The top install is mostly complete, all except for the Header bow windlace, and working out some wrinkles with the heat gun. It is pretty bad behind the drivers side glass, but the passenger side is about perfect, and the rear window is wrinkle free. I have posted some photos of the results.
I spoke with Al Knoch today and have ordered the new windlace which is longer and has tapered ends to allow it to be tucked under the top at the corners. I enjoyed talking with him, Al is very down to earth, and apppreciative of his customers. Wow talk about customer service. As a side note Al said he may start shipping the alternate windlace, but he also acknowledged that it does not seal as well as the one he currently includes in the top kit.

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Thanks to all for tips and support through this project,
George