C2 rear struts/bushings
I purchased a near complete restored '65. Total miles are less than 500 on a full mechanical rebuild. Added new rims with radial tires (for cruising) and went to have alignment. Shop is totally reputable and I was there. The front and rear was no where near spec. It appears the car was assembled and this was never done. I attributed the poor handling to repro bias ply tires. The rear strut rod bushings were toast and one was missing all together. The shop feels these were installed and fully tightened unloaded; then wen loaded the bushings twisted. These were the original small end type rods. The shop replaced them with the larger end type from Moog; claiming they are far superior. I kept the small end ones. Any thoughts and comments would be appreciated. I intend to get car judged, will this be an issue?
-
-
Re: C2 rear struts/bushings
They are not the correct parts so you know what that answer is relative to judging.
The small end parts were just fine when the car was built, so if reassembled correctly, they work just fine too.
Then, you say you added radials and then attribute the poor ride to bias ply tires
... radials don't equate to bias ply tires.
Regardless you aren't going to have as good of a ride as a radial but that's not the basis of your problem, its who's doing the work on your car.
Those strut rod bushings won't go out in 500 miles unless they were the non-bonded ones that many here suggest should never be used on the car. If you get the ones the catalog stores sell with the dual metal sleeves, they will last 100k miles unless you are out racing. Then again, when you adjust them its kinda hard to do that at ride height in that you have to take the load off the suspension to loosen the nut and rotate that camber bolt to get the correct position. Again, question if the shop knows what they are doing. -
Re: C2 rear struts/bushings
Philip,
Congratulations on the new '65.
Did they explain why the Moog strut rods were far superior, and how it would noticeably improve your street handling?
Strut Rod Assemblies are worth 5 points for originality and 5 points condition (if you get at least 10% of the originality points?)
The judges should spot the incorrect struts:
"The strut rods are forged and may vary in color from "forging black" to gray or blue-gray. Original strut rods have a 1-1/4-inch diameter steel enclosed rubber bushing in each end. Current replacement rods are bigger in diameter than originals." (1965 JG, p. 157)
It's not a lot of points, but if the rest of the car is pretty much right, I would put the original strut rods back on. They were good enough for the first 46 years
Comment
-
Re: C2 rear struts/bushings
Philip------
The original style strut rods with proper replacement bushings (i.e. GM #3775762) will work fine. However, the shop is correct about the larger bushing strut rods. This style rod and bushing will be far more durable and will maintain rear wheel camber adjustment much better than the original style rods and bushings.
By the way, you don't think that GM changed the design of the rods and bushings for 1975 because the 63-74 style worked just as well, do you?In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
-
Re: C2 rear struts/bushings
Thanks guys.
Ron, car had bias ply when purchased and I thought terrible handling was due to that. I switched to radials because I like to drive rather than show. Kept repro bias for judging.
Scott, intended to get car judged and was trying not to give away any points. It already has added sidepipes and is going to take a big hit there.
Joe, I kept the original small end struts and can have new bushings installed. My dilema is I need originality for judging but I will drive much more than show. If I were to re-install the original type, would the rear need to be aligned again?Comment
-
Re: C2 rear struts/bushings
Philip,
A compromise might be the best of both worlds. I don't know what the Moog struts look like, but a pair of the 1975+ GM Corvette strut rods with the larger ends (and GM/OEM bushings) would give the benefits Joe mentioned, but would still look stock to anyone who doesn't hang out here or at Judging seminars
You would still take a points hit, but probably only a small one on originality (1 or 2 points?), you should still get all five points for condition.
What say ye, Judges?Comment
-
Re: C2 rear struts/bushings
Philip------
If you return the camber adjustment bolt to the exact same position after you re-install the original rods, you should be ok on alignment. However, I'd double-check by placing a level vertically against the wheel on both sides before and after the re-installation. You need to do this with the suspension normalized. The level's bubble should be in the same position before and after re-installation.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
-
Re: C2 rear struts/bushings
Scott------Philip,
A compromise might be the best of both worlds. I don't know what the Moog struts look like, but a pair of the 1975+ GM Corvette strut rods with the larger ends (and GM/OEM bushings) would give the benefits Joe mentioned, but would still look stock to anyone who doesn't hang out here or at Judging seminars
You would still take a points hit, but probably only a small one on originality (1 or 2 points?), you should still get all five points for condition.
What say ye, Judges?
The Moog strut rods are essentially identical to the 75-79 GM strut rods.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
-
Re: C2 rear struts/bushings
Philip - if you get the dual sleeve bushings that go into the original struts, they will be more than adequate for any and all maneuvers you'll ever put your 65 into, unless you start serious racing.
They are just fine.
Now the fast way to do this is a Joe suggested, but one final trick, set it to the same place as you took the bolt out, but you have to get the car out and drive it a half mile or so to normalize things go around a few corners etc, and then if the wheels are squating out, or use the level, adjust the camber in a little more. The race car drivers I know don't use sophisticated alignment machines, they told me how they do it with a long string and its pretty good method.Comment
-
Re: C2 rear struts/bushings
Ron / Joe
Thanks for the info. Two further questions
1) Can the struts be replaced while car is sitting on rear tires (loaded) or does it need to be suspended (off rear tires)?
2) What is the string method?Comment
-
Re: C2 rear struts/bushings
The car needs to be off the ground to remove any suspension part. The string method is a taught string held horizontally against the front and rear tires and is for setting toe in. This is not required if only the lower strut rods are being swapped; only camber is a factor in that case.Comment
Comment