C2 clock lube: why not WD-40?

[Gary W.]

3yrs ago I had my original non-working '67 clock restored and it worked a treat right up to the exact time of Operations testing for Flight judging in April '10. Yep, no exageration, I couldn't believe it when the second hand stopped ticking only moments before the judge turned to the clock! A quick 'tap' just above the clock got the second hand moving, phew, no deduction and a 97.9% Top Flight.

Anyhoo, for the following 17mths or so the second hand became less & less reliable so I finally decided to do something about it today (by the way, I use a battery isolation switch and drive the car not as frequently as I'd like). I figured it'd just require some 'lube' so pulled the clock from the dash and jumped on the NCRS Tech Discussion Archives looking for advice (note: no way was I going to send the clock back to the USA all the way from Aussie....cost more in shipping than the service fee!).

I was surprised to read that I shouldn't use WD-40 or similar, only a watchmaker grade lube. Not having any on hand and not wanting to un-crimp the case to expose the mechanism (and likely break something) I went against advice and gave a few small squirts of WD-40 onto the mechanism through the light-globe fitting holes. Well, as soon as I re-connected the clock the second hand jumped into life and hasn't stopped ticking for the last 12hrs!

So, is the clock going to self-destruct after a pre-determined time because I used WD-40?

Cheers, Gary (Perth, Australia)

[David H.]

Re: C2 clock lube: why not WD-40?

... I was surprised to read that I shouldn't use WD-40 or similar, only a watchmaker grade lube. Not having any on hand and not wanting to un-crimp the case to expose the mechanism (and likely break something) I went against advice and gave a few small squirts ...
So, is the clock going to self-destruct after a pre-determined time because I used WD-40? ...

WD-40 is good for water displacement and freeing sticky mechanisms, but it isn't a good lubricant for clocks. WD has the effect of removing the lubricants that are there hence accelerating wear on the mechanism. See link below.

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Clocks-Watches-1747/Clock-Lube.htm

[Michael W.]

Re: C2 clock lube: why not WD-40?

WD-40 is the best thing ever invented for it's designed purpose- displacing water from electrical components. It's a 2nd rate choice or worse for any other purported application. I'm amazed at the recommendations it gets for use as a rust remover, loosening stuck fasteners, lubricant, tall building jumper etc. rather than buying the correct product for the same or less money.

[Joe R.]

Re: C2 clock lube: why not WD-40?

Most lubricants as we know them thicken after days, months or years of use because the propellants used evaporate. That leaves a waxy buildup which is not friendly to a clock mechanism.
Lubricants used by watchmakers do the same thing after years of exposure to the elements as our clocks are open.
WD-40 will make our Corvette clocks run for a short time but they are not good for the long haul.
This is why all the clock rebuilders (I hope) use ultrasonic cleaners and then lube with an oil along the line of the watchmaker.

JR

[Gary W.]

Re: C2 clock lube: why not WD-40?

So if I now add some 'watchmaker' lubricant will the mechanism be OK? And can I apply it simply through the light-bulb holes?
cheers,
Gary.

[Michael W.]

Re: C2 clock lube: why not WD-40?

I'd wait till it stops working, take it apart and do it properly.

[Dick W.]

Re: C2 clock lube: why not WD-40?

Most lubricants as we know them thicken after days, months or years of use because the propellants used evaporate. That leaves a waxy buildup which is not friendly to a clock mechanism.
Lubricants used by watchmakers do the same thing after years of exposure to the elements as our clocks are open.
WD-40 will make our Corvette clocks run for a short time but they are not good for the long haul.
This is why all the clock rebuilders (I hope) use ultrasonic cleaners and then lube with an oil along the line of the watchmaker.

JR

I think that JR has explained it well. And he has plenty of first hand knowledge on the subject.

[Joe R.]

Re: C2 clock lube: why not WD-40?

So if I now add some 'watchmaker' lubricant will the mechanism be OK? And can I apply it simply through the light-bulb holes?
cheers,
Gary.

Gary,

Your clock may run for 1 year, 10 years or 1 day! They are old clocks and old movements.
Just wait until it dies and then get it fixed. In your situation it probably will cost more to ship it than fix it.
The same suggestion applies to any Corvette Clock. If it was possible to replace the movement with a new movement each rebuild they would last thru each owner.
Throwing money at an old clock is a crap shoot at best!
Even though it won't pass tech, a quartz replacement movment is the best spent money for your old antique clock.

JR

[Domenic T.]

Re: C2 clock lube: why not WD-40?

Gary,
If you are trying to nip the problem in the bud, you are right to get it lubed.

FWIW we tested oils on the roof of a metal bldg protected from the wind & rain.

WD-40, Marvel, 3&1, ATF, engine oil, acastor oil, and one other.

The one that didn't turn to gum was ATF.

WHY did we do such a nutty test?

Because I have over 400 model gas engines on display in my living room. As I restored them I lubed them and they gumed up and would not turn over by hand within a year or so. (everyone That picks one up trys to turn them over).

The ones that were frequently turned over only got stiff the others would not turn over unless I put them in the oven and turned the gum back to a liquid or soft gum.

I use ATF and a tooth pic to lube things small like your clock.

I have used ATF as a lube for years with 100%+ sucsess.

I don't know what it does in a freezing condition but works GREAT at normal temps.

A few years back I did about 6 engines and grabbed the red lube that I had in my oil can and lubed the engines.

A year or so later I took one out and it was gumed up.

I found that I used the red marvel oil instead of ATF.

Works great.

DOM

[Terry M.]

Re: C2 clock lube: why not WD-40?

In the 1980s I assisted Ron Dembowski in writing an article about a clock repair business in Wisconsin. I can't recall the name, but at the time they were the only authorized by our clock manufacturer repair facility. They had decades of automotive clock experience. They had been in business long before the first Corvette was made.

Their lubrication story is that the clock movement is suspended on small O-rings. Any petroleum based product will over time dissolve those O-rings and the movement then will be subject to all the vibrations the O-rings were designed to cushion as the car travels down the road. They used a lubricant that was not petroleum based.

[Jim D.]

Re: C2 clock lube: why not WD-40?

I've repaired at least 20 clocks by spraying the innards with tuner cleaner from Radio Shack and then using 3in1 oil to lube the pivot points. It may not be the best way of doing it but I've never had one fail and the clock in my 1960 has worked flawlessly for 30+ years since doing it that way.

[Gary W.]

Re: C2 clock lube: why not WD-40?

thanks a bunch gents for all your valued advice - here's my last questions picking through the replies, promise:
1: what's the difference between ATF & '3in1' oil?
2: are either/both/neither non-petroleum based?
3: is a toothpick dipped in the right lube and poked thru the lightbulb holes to apply lube to the mechanism an ok method?

Cheers, Gary.

P.S. If you think it's a challenge keeping these old girls in tip-top shape, try doing it from Down Under.....the TDB is a godsend for us lonely nuts down here....thanks SO MUCH for all your help!

P.P.S. the clock only has to last 'till April '12 when the '67 gets judged for "International Mark of Excellence".....then it doesn't matter if it stops working as time stands still when you're in an L71 on full song with all 6-barrells wide open

[Domenic T.]

Re: C2 clock lube: why not WD-40?

Gary,
If in fact the clock has O-rings in it then the ATF will swell them. I only put ATF on the pivot points.

Even though engines and automatic transmissions use petrolium based O-rings they are different as ATF will swell regular O-rings in about 6 Mos.

In the old days and for me in this day, I put ATF in old engined to swell the valve seals and rear + front seal.

Also it cleanes the sludge in the older breathing engines that were front to back with the down draft tube.

DOM

[Stuart F.]

Re: C2 clock lube: why not WD-40?

Back in the day we used to just soak a small cotton ball with alcohol and remove the light bulb, stick the cotton in there and let it soak for a day or two. Then, remove it and replace the bulb. Wala, the clock would run perfect for a long time. I don't know how long or whether it was a good idea to do that, but I picked up the idea from a used car lot and they probably didn't care how long it would run just as long as it did until the car was sold.

Stu Fox

[Todd B.]

Re: C2 clock lube: why not WD-40?

3: is a toothpick dipped in the right lube and poked thru the lightbulb holes to apply lube to the mechanism an ok method?

I used to work for a grandfather clock manufacturing company, and the technicians in our movement repair area used pen oiler similar to the one in this link to apply oil to the pivot points only:

http://www.clockoil.com/

One of the problems associated with spraying movements with oil is that it encourages accumulation of dust and other contaminants on the movement - potentially causing premature wear.

Todd