Help with Heater Box Part

[Don Z.]

I was wondering if anyone had their glove box out that could shoot and send me a close up photo of the Heater Temperature Idler Cam that sits on top of the heater box. I think they were the same 63 - 67. I have been having trouble with mine. When you adjust the heater adjustment knob ( by pulling it out ) the cable pulls on the top part of the idler cam. This rotates on a plastic sleeve. When I pull mine, my top part of the cam wants to rise up and almost come off of the plastic sleeve. What I really need is a close up photo of the plastic sleeve which is located inside of the top cam in the slot. I think my plastic sleeve may be worn so bad or possibly it may be broken on the top. I could be missing some part all together. Thank You for your help.
Don Zullinger
zully@innernet.net

[Bill H.]

Re: Help with Heater Box Part

Just got done doing some work on mine. Is this what you need Don?
67 BTW.

[Don Z.]

Re: Help with Heater Box Part

Thank You Bill, just what I was looking for.
I think your plastic sleeve in the groove looks like it fits very well. Mine has space and is sloppy. I think it is worn. I may have to see if I can find some sort of sleeve material and put on a new one.
Do you think the slotted grooves on either end of the bracket allows for adjustment for the cable, so it may not bind??
Thanks again

[Bill H.]

Re: Help with Heater Box Part

Don, the plastic sleeve should be dirty (blackish) but show no groove at all.
You should be able to put your little finger on the cable post and move the cam thru it's entire range with zero effort.
No, the 2 slotted holes are there to adjust how the door/gasket fits in the closed position , used to get the gasket square to the housing when the door is closed.

There's something binding if the cam is rising up. Maybe the door hinge or dirt in the housing. Is the door gasket origional? Falling apart?
That door should just flop back and forth with the cable disconnected.

[Don Z.]

Re: Help with Heater Box Part

Bill;
Are you saying that with the cable attached you should be able to open/close the vent with very little effort or with the cable off of the post?
With the cable off the cable slides pretty smoothly, but when attached it pulls rather tightly. I was afraid I was going to break something trying to pull on it.
My plastic sleeve is a dirty white color. With the entire cam off of the top of the box, I can take my finger and turn the door open/closed but I would not say it flops back and forth. Do you think spraying a grease cutter so it runs down along the door arerm will help?

I have never had the heater box off. I do remember the previous owner ( 1997) saying he had to have the heater core re-done.
Is that a job removing? Amatuer person as I am.
Can the box just be removed from the inside or does the heater core come with it?
Thanks for the help.

[Don Z.]

Re: Help with Heater Box Part

Bill;
This morning before a meeting I had, I went out and put a shot of pentrating oil on top of the shaft for the door. I just came in from checking on the door if it was more loose than yesterday. I can say that you can take the top of the shaft between your fingers and flip it back and forth. I still would not say it just flops but it flips back and forth rather easily. Maybe a few more shots of pentrating oil???
If that is the problem, then I'll figure out how I got the cam off the box, then re-install it, grease the sleeve and see if it works any better without binding.
Is there any suggestions / tricks on how to adjust the cam with the end screws.
Bill, other suggestions welcome. Thanks

[Bill H.]

Re: Help with Heater Box Part

Bill;
Are you saying that with the cable attached you should be able to open/close the vent with very little effort or with the cable off of the post?
With the cable off the cable slides pretty smoothly, but when attached it pulls rather tightly. I was afraid I was going to break something trying to pull on it.
My plastic sleeve is a dirty white color. With the entire cam off of the top of the box, I can take my finger and turn the door open/closed but I would not say it flops back and forth. Do you think spraying a grease cutter so it runs down along the door arerm will help?

I have never had the heater box off. I do remember the previous owner ( 1997) saying he had to have the heater core re-done.
Is that a job removing? Amatuer person as I am.
Can the box just be removed from the inside or does the heater core come with it?
Thanks for the help.

Yea, with the cam on or off, very little effort.

The hinge rod is crimped to the dooe, runs thru the fiberglass housing, you could try some solvent there.

Cam off the box? There should be a wave washer that goes on the cam swivel post to hold the cam on (loosely). If it's not there maybe the cam could ride up.

It's a bit of a job to take the box out, mine's been out for a while but you probably have to pull the glove box, maybe radio, I don't remember. Possibly someone else here can tell you.
The box is held in by thru studs that go thru the firewall and the heatercore cover in the engine compartment. If the gaskets are glued in it's not easy to get the box out.

[Bill H.]

Re: Help with Heater Box Part

Bill;
This morning before a meeting I had, I went out and put a shot of pentrating oil on top of the shaft for the door. I just came in from checking on the door if it was more loose than yesterday. I can say that you can take the top of the shaft between your fingers and flip it back and forth. I still would not say it just flops but it flips back and forth rather easily. Maybe a few more shots of pentrating oil???
If that is the problem, then I'll figure out how I got the cam off the box, then re-install it, grease the sleeve and see if it works any better without binding.
Is there any suggestions / tricks on how to adjust the cam with the end screws.
Bill, other suggestions welcome. Thanks

Don't grease the cam post or the plastic sleeve, they were designed to work dry. And grease just attracts dirt.

The only way I know to adjust the assembly is with the box off, you adjust it so the door gasket fits squarely against the housing to prevent air/heat leaks.
BUT, misadjustment there will not cause the binding you have, the door should move easily no matter what the adjustment is.

[Don Z.]

Re: Help with Heater Box Part

Thanks Bill
I will not grease the plastic sleeve or any parts other than the door/rod thru the box itself.
Yes, I do have the complete idler assembly off. The pivot arm is intact and the cupped washer is also there. I did notice that the pivot arm kind of wobbled up and down. Maybe that is why I could slip the assembly off. Since then I have given the rivet under side of the pivot arm a nice tap to help and it tightened the arm somewhat. I have noticed that when I have the entire assembly sitting on a flat surface it is cupped up in the middle. Luckily, I have found another one and will probably use that one.
I will need to install it and play around with the adjustment of the screws and at this time I guess it is a guess. I did mark where the screws were when I dis-assembled.
Again, thanks for all of you help.

[Harry S.]

Re: Help with Heater Box Part

Don, while the box is out, remove all the cables from the dash, clean and lube them. You will be happy you did.

If your brave, take the box completely apart, including rivets. media blast all the metal, seal with a good clear paint, replace all the seals and reinstall all new rivets. It's a long painstaking process but it's not overly complex. It make a good winter project.

[Bill H.]

Re: Help with Heater Box Part

Don, while the box is out, remove all the cables from the dash, clean and lube them. You will be happy you did.

If your brave, take the box completely apart, including rivets. media blast all the metal, seal with a good clear paint, replace all the seals and reinstall all new rivets. It's a long painstaking process but it's not overly complex. It make a good winter project.

Yea, good idea.
I just glass beaded all the doors and what I could get to without removing any rivits. Painted the doors. got the gasket kit on order.

[Don Z.]

Re: Help with Heater Box Part

Thanks Bill for your information and help. Lubricating the shaft made a world of difference. With the idler cam assembly off I could take the top part of the shaft in my finger and rotate the door open / close very easily. I also lubed the cable. I re-assembled everything.
I now have an additional question and it may be a dumb one at that.
When you pull on the knob, how far does it come out to open the door or supposed to come out?
When I have mine assembled and when I pull on the knob it comes out about 1" - 1 1/2" and the door opens. If I take the knob and open /close /open /close I can hear the door shuting. ( if that make any sense)
I still have the same problem though, if I want to pull out the knob any further, then it wants to bind. But after looking at it I thought maybe the pull knob is only to come out a small portion and I've been trying to pull it out too far. The owners manual really does not spell how far out to pull it.
Again, your help appreciated.

[Bill H.]

Re: Help with Heater Box Part

When I have mine assembled and when I pull on the knob it comes out about 1" - 1 1/2" and the door opens. If I take the knob and open /close /open /close I can hear the door shuting. ( if that make any sense)

Well, mine's not in the car but, just measuring the travel fully closed to fully open, it's 1 5/16. That's measured at the post where the cable attaches. So, your's sounds about right. It's possible that the measurement could be a tad longer since that piece moves in a slight arch, not a straight line.

[Don Z.]

Re: Help with Heater Box Part

Thanks Again Bill
I was not measuring at the post but rather just ball parking the length of the shaft behind the knob to the bezel. So probably down at the actual idler arm is probably pretty close. That answers my question and sounds like I have the thing pretty much done. It works very smooth.
I don't know why I was thinking the knob pulled out further, like the other side does but I guess not.
I'd have taken your thoughts on removing but it just not suit for that type of work at this time.
Again thanks for the help.