Best way to set camber initially after rear rebuild on '69

[Jack O.]

Is there a "best" initial setting for the camber bolts before trying to adjust, i.e. set it such that the hole in the washer is at 12 o'clock or one of the hash marks is set to a particular place? I haven't normalized the suspension yet since rebuilding the rear compoents.
Thanks,
Jack

[Timothy B.]

Re: Best way to set camber initially after rear rebuild on '69

Jack,

I can't remember if it's best to set the bolt with the head toward the bottom or top of the adjustment slot but it is no problem to turn. Use never seize on everything and make sure to use the correct washers at the bushing ends because they lock with the serrated tips on the bushings when the joint is tightened and are designed to take up the space in the joint and allow the strut rods to move and adjust.

Lower the car on two pieces of floor tile and pull the tire out at the bottom so the suspension is somewhat normalized. Adjust the camber with a floor level against the rim set level top and bottom. Tighten and go for a shot ride around the block and recheck after you pull the rear wheels back on the floor tile. At that point you will probably need to adjust again, I always set mine so it's level or no more than 1/8" negative with no passengers in vehicle and torque the bolts.

[Jack O.]

Re: Best way to set camber initially after rear rebuild on '69

Timothy,
Thanks for the advice. You're talking about the washers that go on the adjustment end of the strut rod, correct? I got new washers from Dr. Rebuild and didn't notice until I went to put them on that they only go on the one end - no washers on the trailing arm end. Is that correct?
Thanks,
Jack

[Timothy B.]

Re: Best way to set camber initially after rear rebuild on '69

Jack,

You are correct about the washers they only go inboard, they are not used on the trailing arm shock bolt.