Horns; More electrical help needed

[Doug L.]

I removed all 7 turn signal and horn wires from their plastic connector where they exit the steering column. This was done when I removed the steering column for restoration. I made a connection diagram at the time but didn't clarify the orientation on it. Well it seemed clear at the time. Now not so much. So I replaced the wires in the connector as I thought was correct. The electrical diagram in the shop manual is not real clear for '64s.

Today when I installed the last component, a restored horn relay,and connected the battery, the horns immediately sounded. The horn button doesn't seem to be stuck. Before I pull the horn button, steering wheel, etc. I think I should try to determine if the wiring in the connector is actually correct. I made the attached sketch of both parts of the connector. The dash harness is new and has not been apart, so the side from the turn signals and horn is what I am interested in. Any help out there?

Thanks in advance. Doug

[Paul Y.]

Re: Horns; More electrical help needed

Just remember that the wire that operates your horn, (green on 63's) is grounded to make the horn work. I would check somewhere for a ground that is not supposed to be. Sorry I can't be more specific. Paul

[Dan B.]

Re: Horns; More electrical help needed

First, pull the wire connector at the horn relay (at the radiator support) so you can test your turn signals, brake lights ect.... with the key on to make sure your other connections are good. As mentioned, sounds like you have an inadvertent ground in the column. The most common problem is the horn wire (part of the turn signal switch wire ribbon) can easily get pinched when clamping the column to the dash support. I'd loosen the support clamp that holds it to the column and try moving the wires slightly and see if that makes your problem go away. Don't forget to replace the plug at the horn relay after testing. Dan

[William C.]

Re: Horns; More electrical help needed

Ok, did the horns work before you started working to the connections? If so, have you looked at the wires coming out of both sides of the connection you worked on? In General, the wire colors on both sides of the connection should match. As that is where you did the work, id check for color math on both sides of the connection before I get too carried away.

[Doug L.]

Re: Horns; More electrical help needed

Following up on this thread. Sorry I never saw your response Bill. The car was a mess when I bought it. It wasn't running and I don't recall trying the horn. I did nothing to the steering column except clean and paint it. Nothing was disassembled except the connector was removed from the wires exiting the column (horn and turn signals).

Since last posting I removed the steering column and the turn signal cam. I found 2 things. 1) There was no horn contact button installed, and 2) the black wire was pinched below the turn signal cam with the jacket crushed and strands of wire visible. It was probably shorted to the inside of the column, and I think such a short would cause the horn to blow.

I taped the bare spot, moved the wire bundle so it would not pinch again, and re-assembled the column. I installed a horn contact by placing the small end through the hub from the steering wheel side. I have another thread started asking for advice on how the contact is supposed to be mounted because the AIM doesn't show any detail. The recess in the hub nicely accommdates the plastic shoulder of the contact so I assume it is installed correctly.

After putting the column back together I connected the battery and horn relay. No sound from the horn so I thought I solved the problem. However when I tried blowing the horn at the steering wheel I got nothing. The 2 things I did stopped the horn from blowing continuously but now it doesn't work at all.

On the bright side, I previously had no turn signals either. After the repairs and reassembly they still didn't work so I started looking for possible causes. The first thing I looked at was the capacitor for the flasher. I found that 1 of the 2 tabs of the condenser that must be inserted into the flasher socket was bent over and not in the socket. I straiightened the tab, got both inserted and reinstalled the flasher (the original blue one) and they now work! Yipee. Now to figure out how to trouble shoot the horn problem.
Doug

[Timothy B.]

Re: Horns; More electrical help needed

Doug,

The only thing I suggest is to remove the horn button and use a remote wire to ground the horn contact and see if that completes the circuit to make the horn blow. Sounds like you are getting close, that ground goes through the rag joint but if the horn worked before the connection there should be good.

Keep in mind the ground throught the horn button powers the horn relay and that in turn sends full 12V to the horns so your horn button connection only makes the relay and it's job is done..

[Doug L.]

Re: Horns; More electrical help needed

Hi Tim,
Thanks for your reply. I'll try your suggestions but I also neeed to resolve the issue of the horn contact.

I found a diagram in the 64 shop manual. See below. It shows the horn contact (#2) being inserted into the cancelling cam (#1) from below. I had it inserted from above and the shoulder dropped nicely into the recessed hole in the hub. I pulled the hub and shaft and tried installing the contact per the diagram. It doesn't fit because the shoulder of the plastic housing of the contact interferes with the side of the cancelling cam. I think I need to resolve this problem first, or at least eventually. I'm hoping someone with a '64 will pop their horn button off and look through the center hole of the steering wheel to see how the contact is installed. If installed from above the plastic shoulder will be flush with the upper surface of the hub. If it does in fact install per the diagram in the manual I need some help with an explanation of how to make it fit.

Doug