Front spring replacement?

[Terry M.]

Re: Front spring replacement?

Thanks, Sounds much the same as all the others I've done. The main reason I was curious and looking for some sort of verification, is some "Professionals" have been saying I need to remove the springs fron the inboard from under the car, sounds like a lot of trouble to do it that way, Thanks again!........Any more ideas are also welcome

The Chevrolet Service Manuals (at least the early C3 versions) show removal of the Corvette lower control arm by removing the inner lower control arm mounts and lowering the control arm. I never tried it that way, but I suppose it could be done. It is probably a little safer in that if the spring pops out it will not go far or do quite so much damage.

Separate the ball studs with:

http://img.inkfrog.com/click_enlarge1.php?image=IT_140.JPG&username=toomuchstuff&aid=952139002

or make your own. I think there is an old thread in the archives showing how to make one like this.
or if you intend to replace the ball studs anyway the old "pickle fork" will do the deed with the accompanying damage to the rubber seal.

I have done the front springs/spindle/ball joints on the ground with jack stands, and on a lift with Snap-on spring compressor and clips to hold the spring in the compressed curved position. The latter is a lot safer, but no less work other than getting up and down off the floor. Either way the job requires a little (well maybe more than a little) common sense and thought and a whole lot of hard work. Undercar suspension work is almost always dirty greasy hard work -- just a fact of life. Be careful.

[Larry M.]

Re: Front spring replacement?

James,

I've done this to our Corvette twice in my garage; one with Tom's method in post #4, once like Terry in post #6.

Before I ever attempted it, I was concerned; it really was easier than I expected - you can do it!

Larry

[Jim S.]

Re: Front spring replacement?

James,

I used the 5/8 bar stock method . I got the idea from this forum.

The only changes I made , because I am always paranoid, are these .

I did double nut the bottom.

I added a few washers to the top and lubed them , to make the compression and release of the nut easier.

Then I added a really large Coupler nut to the top end . This was both for ease of grabbing with the wrench and also for fear of thread slippage.

then I still added a top nut as an even further protection from thread slippage .

Lastly I cannabalized the bottom half of the spring puller I rented form checker (for Free by the way ) It was the double u hooks they have and I placed it on the bottom of the stock rod and on top of the piece of flat iron that Russ metioned . As I said , Paranoid !

I did however take them off and put them back in without injury ! First and hopfully last time !


You may also want to have a come along strap handy when recompressing the spring to get the correct arch in them as you tighten .



I know this is a lot to take in, so I am Enclosing a picture of it . Disregard all those washers . I only used two at the top in the end . The others are just extras. The hooks are back at Checker, and I don't know where the piece of flat iron went .

Hope this helps,

Jim