C2 Help with broken Engine Mount Bolt - NCRS Discussion Boards

C2 Help with broken Engine Mount Bolt

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  • Frank C.
    Very Frequent User
    • August 31, 2003
    • 170

    C2 Help with broken Engine Mount Bolt

    I am getting my car ready for spring summer, I am replacing the exhaust, clutch, doing some other projects, and clean up.

    I noticed while doing so that an engine mount bolt was missing. After looking more closely I noticed the bolt was broken. I removed the engine mount. I have posted some pictures, and hope there are some here who can suggest a good method to extract the bolt.

    Thanks!

    Frank

    IMG_1270.jpgIMG_1240.jpgIMG_1243.jpgIMG_1256.jpg
    Frank Clark
    U.S. Army Retired, current serving DoD Civilian
    C1 1962 300hp, 4spd. Black/Fawn
    C2 1966 Coupe, L79, A01, C60, J50, M21, N40. Silver/Black
    C20 1966 Custom Camper, L30, J70, M49, N40, G60, Saddle/White
    C20 1966 Custom Camper, L30, M49, N40, G60, Saddle/White

  • David L.
    Expired
    • July 31, 1980
    • 3310

    #2
    Re: C2 Help with broken Engine Mount Bolt

    Frank,

    Does the engine need a rebuild? I don't see how you can drill a small hole in the broken bolt while the engine is still in the car to use a bolt extractor without risking damage to the threads in the block.

    Dave

    Comment

    • Frank C.
      Very Frequent User
      • August 31, 2003
      • 170

      #3
      Re: C2 Help with broken Engine Mount Bolt

      Dave,

      One option I am considering is using a right angle attachment and drill a small hole. If that is the best option, What is the best brand and size of extractor to use?

      Thanks for the reply.
      Frank Clark
      U.S. Army Retired, current serving DoD Civilian
      C1 1962 300hp, 4spd. Black/Fawn
      C2 1966 Coupe, L79, A01, C60, J50, M21, N40. Silver/Black
      C20 1966 Custom Camper, L30, J70, M49, N40, G60, Saddle/White
      C20 1966 Custom Camper, L30, M49, N40, G60, Saddle/White

      Comment

      • David L.
        Expired
        • July 31, 1980
        • 3310

        #4
        Re: C2 Help with broken Engine Mount Bolt

        Frank,

        I have not had much luck in removing broken 3/8" studs from exhaust manifolds using a hand drill. It might be slightly easier on an engine block. You have to drill the hole perfectly down the center of the broken bolt. In my experience the drill bit tends to "drift" towards the threads when you use a hand drill and that is not good. A drill press is best but impossible in your case. Heat from a torch also helps but could be very dangerous in close quarters. That's all I can say.

        Dave

        Comment

        • Russ S.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • April 30, 1982
          • 2161

          #5
          Re: C2 Help with broken Engine Mount Bolt

          Originally posted by Frank Clark (40549)
          Dave,

          One option I am considering is using a right angle attachment and drill a small hole. If that is the best option, What is the best brand and size of extractor to use?

          Thanks for the reply.
          I would say the most important "brand" is "Made in the USA"

          Comment

          • Edward J.
            Extremely Frequent Poster
            • September 15, 2008
            • 6940

            #6
            Re: C2 Help with broken Engine Mount Bolt

            Frank, I have had quite a bit of experience removing broken bolts in my automotive shop over 40 years, The best thing I can tell you is if you cannot get a center punch and get it dead on don't try it, This is the most important step. so my advice is you should be fine with two bolts unless this car will be on the race track. when you do want to remove the broken bolt remove the engine and put on a stand to do the job. or just give it to the machinst to do, They to have much experience with this to.
            New England chapter member, 63 Convert. 327/340- Chapter/Regional/national Top Flight, 72 coupe- chapter and regional Top Flight.

            Comment

            • Dick W.
              Former NCRS Director Region IV
              • June 30, 1985
              • 10483

              #7
              Re: C2 Help with broken Engine Mount Bolt

              Use a reversible drill, LH drill bit, and hopefully it will back out. I have had very good results with broken bolts by using a LH drill bit.
              Dick Whittington

              Comment

              • Tom K.
                Very Frequent User
                • February 26, 2008
                • 167

                #8
                Re: C2 Help with broken Engine Mount Bolt

                Try soaking the bolt with penetrating oil. Then try to drive it in a counterclockwise direction with a long punch or centerpunch and a hammer. I have on a few occasions been successful with this approach if the bolt is not too tight or bound up in the threads. Good luck.
                Tom

                Comment

                • Frank C.
                  Very Frequent User
                  • August 31, 2003
                  • 170

                  #9
                  Re: C2 Help with broken Engine Mount Bolt

                  I appreciate all of the responses. I am going to try to get this bolt out next week after I get the tools lined up. It is a good call to soak with penatrating oil, I am going to order a LH drill, and the MATCO/Snapon extractor kits look like a good choice. I made an extension for a center punch and was able to get a good strike. I also have a mini torch set up on MAP gas which can apply heat. I will report back on the results.

                  Thanks again to all those who have offered your advise.


                  Frank
                  Frank Clark
                  U.S. Army Retired, current serving DoD Civilian
                  C1 1962 300hp, 4spd. Black/Fawn
                  C2 1966 Coupe, L79, A01, C60, J50, M21, N40. Silver/Black
                  C20 1966 Custom Camper, L30, J70, M49, N40, G60, Saddle/White
                  C20 1966 Custom Camper, L30, M49, N40, G60, Saddle/White

                  Comment

                  • Chuck G.
                    Extremely Frequent Poster
                    • May 31, 1982
                    • 2029

                    #10
                    Re: C2 Help with broken Engine Mount Bolt

                    Just be real careful with those extractors, aka "easy outs". They're not "easy" and they've never taken anything "out" for me. If you break one off in your pilot hole, they're hardened steel, and virtually impossible to drill out. Don't ask how I know this.

                    Chuck
                    1963 Corvette Conv. 327/360 NCRS Top Flight
                    2006 Corvette Conv. Velocity Yellow NCRS Top Flight
                    1956 Chevy Sedan. 350/4 Speed Hot Rod

                    Comment

                    • Timothy B.
                      Extremely Frequent Poster
                      • April 30, 1983
                      • 5177

                      #11
                      Re: C2 Help with broken Engine Mount Bolt

                      Frank,

                      The threads in the back hole don't look very good to me in your picture. If the transmission and exhaust is out with a clutch job, why not lift the motor out and fix it right checking all the mount holes on both sides.

                      I know it's a much longer job but you will get a chance to clean the engine and install some new valve cover gaskets because they look like there leaking. I can't add to the advice given above except to say the access to the broken bolt will be paramount to a correct fix and if it's a original motor you should think about this.

                      If the engine runs fine you don't need to create extra work, just fix the bolt and check all the others. One thing to consider, if the antifreeze has not been changed in a while remove the plugs on the side of the block and drain/flush the water jackets to remove debris then clean those holes with a pipe tap and seal and install the plugs again (snug).

                      Comment

                      • Frank C.
                        Very Frequent User
                        • August 31, 2003
                        • 170

                        #12
                        Re: C2 Help with broken Engine Mount Bolt

                        Tim and Chuck,

                        This car runs well. Over the past two years I have driven it 4k miles. The car has mostsy original paint (rough faded etc) original drive train with 80K miles. I am resisting pulling the engine for one broken bolt. I do not want this project to end up like others I have done. I pulled ny 69 Cub Cadet into the garage 18 months ago to replace a wiring harness, that turned into a nut and bolt resto. (still not done) My goal for now is to keep the car in good mechanical condition and just drive it.

                        Garage.JPG
                        Frank Clark
                        U.S. Army Retired, current serving DoD Civilian
                        C1 1962 300hp, 4spd. Black/Fawn
                        C2 1966 Coupe, L79, A01, C60, J50, M21, N40. Silver/Black
                        C20 1966 Custom Camper, L30, J70, M49, N40, G60, Saddle/White
                        C20 1966 Custom Camper, L30, M49, N40, G60, Saddle/White

                        Comment

                        • Joe L.
                          Beyond Control Poster
                          • February 1, 1988
                          • 43193

                          #13
                          Re: C2 Help with broken Engine Mount Bolt

                          Originally posted by Chuck Gongloff (5629)
                          Just be real careful with those extractors, aka "easy outs". They're not "easy" and they've never taken anything "out" for me. If you break one off in your pilot hole, they're hardened steel, and virtually impossible to drill out. Don't ask how I know this.

                          Chuck
                          Chuck------


                          Yup, that's just how it is. The only way you'll get a bolt out with a head broken off with an "easy-out" is if the threads are not seized. However, if the threads are not seized, the head would not have broken off in the first place. So, "easy-outs" are an answer to a non-existent problem situation. I have NEVER had an "easy-out" work to remove a bolt with a broken off head and stopped using them years ago.

                          The only way you can remove a seized bolt with a broken-off head is to drill it out. This usually damages the female threads so you need to install a Heli-Coil (or other thread repair device). Motor mount tappings in the block often have damaged threads and require thread repair even if there is not a broken off bolt involved.
                          In Appreciation of John Hinckley

                          Comment

                          • Timothy B.
                            Extremely Frequent Poster
                            • April 30, 1983
                            • 5177

                            #14
                            Re: C2 Help with broken Engine Mount Bolt

                            Frank,

                            Don't let the job get out of hand. Get it in your mind to make the correct repair and do some simple maintainence then put it back and drive the car.

                            Comment

                            • Donald H.
                              Extremely Frequent Poster
                              • November 2, 2009
                              • 2580

                              #15
                              Re: C2 Help with broken Engine Mount Bolt

                              I agree with Chuck, if you break off the hardened steel bolt removers you will be in for a mess. I've done it a couple of time, and it is nearly impossible to then drill them out. One thing you might try is use a grinder with a metal cutting wheel and cut a good slot into the bolt then use a heavy screw driver with vice grips on the shaft to try and ease the bolt out.
                              Don Harris
                              Current: 67 convertible Marina Blue L79
                              Former: 60 Red/Red, 2x4, 245hp (Regional and National Top Flight 2013), 66 coupe Nassau Blue, L79 (Chapter and Regional Top Flight 2017)

                              Comment

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