67 Rag Joint Steering Coupler Removal

[Al P.]

What is the preferred and easiest way to remove and replace the steering coupler between the steering box and steering column? Any tricks of the trade?

Once the clamp bolts are loosened, will the joint easily side on the column or will it need to be "encouraged" with a hammer or something? Mine is the original.

and lastly - Who sells the best quality replacement rag joint?
Thanks All!

[Doug L.]

Re: 67 Rag Joint Steering Coupler Removal

Hi Al,
I broke mine in the process of removing it from my '64. There is a radial groove near the end of the steering shaft. The through-bolt on the coupler engages that groove and will prevent the shaft from sliding out of the coupler. I think you have to remove both bolts, not just loosen them. I would also spray some penetrating oil on the couplers of the rag joint, let it seep down between the steering shaft and the coupler, then maybe tap it lightly with a hammer. Be very gentle when trying to pull the shaft from the coupler. Of course if you're planning to replace it there may not be much point in using such care.

I can't advise on who sells the best replacement. I sent my original 2 couplers and had them rebuilt. I'm traveling now so don't have records and don't recall who did the work. I can look it up when I return if you want to consider that route.

[Jim S.]

Re: 67 Rag Joint Steering Coupler Removal

There are two recommended ways of gaining clearance so that you can remove the flexible coupling:
1). The first is to detach the steering column from the floor pan and also remove the covers to the instrument cluster and the three vertical bolts that hold the steering column up into the dash structure. This will allow you to pull the entire steering column a couple inches back into the driver compartment (thus gaining just enough clearance to remove the flex coupling.)


This is the 1968 column attachment. 1967 is similar.
2). The other is to unfasten the steering gear from the frame. This will allow you to tip the gear sufficiently to gain clearance to again remove the flexible coupling.

1967 was the first year for the collapsible, energy absorbing steering column in the Corvette. If you pry on the flexible coupling when trying to make more axial clearance so that you can remove it, you will most likely cause the steering shaft to slide up inside the steering column. You will have to pull it back out. For some reason, it is much more difficult to "pull the shaft back out" than it is to press it into the column.

Jim

[Clark K.]

Re: 67 Rag Joint Steering Coupler Removal

and lastly - Who sells the best quality replacement rag joint?
Thanks All!

I bought a new reproduction rag joint from Long Island Corvette Supply last year and had it installed on my '65 Coupe. When it was judged last month, there were no deductions for it.
-Clark

[Al P.]

Re: 67 Rag Joint Steering Coupler Removal

Thanks All - Will replace mine shortly.....

[Jim S.]

Re: 67 Rag Joint Steering Coupler Removal

The correct 1967 Corvette flange and coupling assembly should be GM part number 5699250. Also 7806391 can be modified to work. They should both have a 7 ply coupling disc with a wire screen ground molded into one face. Both bow tie flanges should be 3/4 inch full round with no flat. There should theoretically be 36 splines if the splines were to extend around 360 degrees.

The stop pins on the original Saginaw 5699250 drawing were only 0.63 inches long. The drawing was revised in August 1967 to a pin that was 0.87 inches long. Now whether the actual pin went into production during the 1967 model year or later, I cannot say.

I am pretty sure that the 5699250 went into production with a rubber cap on the stop pins. The caps were added to the 5699250 drawing in January 1966. You would expect that the cap could have been incorporated for SOP 1967 model year. The 5699250 drawing was revised to eliminate the cap in late March 1967. So the caps could have been eliminated as a running change during the 1967 model year. I just don't know.

Shoulder bolts should be 5/16-24 and 3/8-24. You may find that the 7806391 has special bolts where there is a cylinder extending up from the hex head. Your original coupling assembly should have bolts that do not have these extensions. Use your original bolts if NCRS judging may find fault with the extended heads.

This is not the correct flange and coupling assembly for your Vette. Your flex coupling should not have a capturing strap. But the picture also shows those extended head bolts that were used for several years from 1969 through the early 1970s (but not 1967-68).

Hope that you can find the correct NOS coupling and flange assembly.

Jim