Buff Old Paint?

[Larry M.]

The pewter silver paint job on our 1972 is old; probably from 1981 or 1982. I don't know if the paint is lacquer, or enamel, or something else.

There are a number of very tiny, barely noticeable scratches on the surface of the paint, the finish is dull in spots, and I'd describe the overall appearance as 'tired'.

From what I've described, does this sound like something that could be improved by a professional buff job? If so, would I need to know what type of paint was used, and how could it be identified?

Larry

[Edward J.]

Re: Buff Old Paint?

Larry, I believe the types of paint used in the 80's were still laquer and enamel. if a laquer finish was used you should be able to take a cleaning towel with some polishing compound and clean a small area and the look at the towel you should see alot of body color on the towel.lacquer will generally compound out depending on just how bad the dulled finish is. But would not use a heavy compound not knowing just how many coats of paint is left. Ed

[Paul J.]

Re: Buff Old Paint?

Larry, there's several things you can try before you buff it. Clay bars, swirl mark removers, etc. all can greatly improve your finish, without any prior knowledge of buffing techniques. There are many kits available from Meguires's and others, and you can see some of these products used at junkman2000 (funny guy), autogeek, and other websites, as well as on most of the TV "car shows" on Speed and Spike.

You can check if you have lacquer paint by taking some lacquer thinner on a rag and vigorously rubbing a hidden area like an upper wheel well lip. Remember that clear coat finishes were available in the 60's and 70's so you need to look carefully to see if you are removing clear.

I assume that you did'nt lay down the paint yourself 30 years ago. If this is correct, be carefull not to buff through the paint (don't ask me why I know this!)

Paul

[Dick W.]

Re: Buff Old Paint?

Larry, I believe the types of paint used in the 80's were still laquer and enamel. if a laquer finish was used you should be able to take a cleaning towel with some polishing compound and clean a small area and the look at the towel you should see alot of body color on the towel.lacquer will generally compound out depending on just how bad the dulled finish is. But would not use a heavy compound not knowing just how many coats of paint is left. Ed

The "modern" era paints were getting started in the late '70's. I sprayed lacquer, synthetic enamel, acrylic enamel, acrylic with hardener, Imron all in that era. Unless the lacquer thinner trick works, it is anyone's guess as to what is on the car.

[Larry M.]

Re: Buff Old Paint?

Guys, thank you for your information.


I believe a new question has been raised - if the paint is not lacquer, can it be buffed? And if so, are there different techniques or materials to use?


Larry

[Dick W.]

Re: Buff Old Paint?

Guys, thank you for your information.


I believe a new question has been raised - if the paint is not lacquer, can it be buffed? And if so, are there different techniques or materials to use?


Larry

I would start off with a mild polish material such as Meguirs Fine Cut Cleaner, Adams Revive Hand Polish, or the favorite product of the day. Be aware of the miracle "cures" for paint. There ain't no substitute for a lot of sweat equity in a fine polish and wax job

[Larry M.]

Re: Buff Old Paint?

Thanks, Dick. I'll try one of those.

[Bill W.]

Re: Buff Old Paint?

If you find someone good enough to buff it they will know in the first 5 minutes what type of paint is on it and what to use to make it look new. The only unknown is how much is left. Beware of used car type clean up shops . I would try and find a good bodyshop that has been around a while . Call your insurance agent they can usualy give you a short list of the good ones.Bill

[Douglas C.]

Re: Buff Old Paint?

I would start off with a mild polish material such as Meguirs Fine Cut Cleaner, Adams Revive Hand Polish, or the favorite product of the day. Be aware of the miracle "cures" for paint. There ain't no substitute for a lot of sweat equity in a fine polish and wax job

Good points here, start with the most gentle compound / product to be safe. I love the Adams Revive, super safe and has natural oils that add some depth to the paint.

I would first clay bar the paint, otherwise with any polish you are swirling around dirt particles you don't see by eye. Then follow with Revive by hand. You may be surprised by the good results.