Spicer U-joint

[Rob M.]

Hi all,

I have read the archives and would like to know if someone can confirm that the Spicer u-joint for the drive shaft for a '66 would be the SP5-785x and that the GM# is 26015249

I called the local driveline shop today and they stated that the new part number is 5-1310x and that the 785x is old.

Can anyone confirm if this new Spicer u-joint is correct for my application?

Is there another u-joint option to consider?

Thanks in advance,

[Gary R.]

Re: Spicer U-joint

Rob
That is correct, the new # is 5-1310x for the solids which is all I recoommend using. The zerk joints are a different number. The primary difference is the dust caps were replaced with better ones that don't break easily. The old ones were black and brittle for lack of a better word. The new ones are white and I have not broken one yet(knock on wood!)

[Rob M.]

Re: Spicer U-joint

Gary,

Thank you for confirming. The shop also stated that the change was in the cap.

My follow up question is, what is a reasonable price to balance the drive shaft? The u-joints are $25 each, but he stated that to install and balance the drive shaft they wanted $199 (not including u-joints).

Thoughts?

[Gary R.]

Re: Spicer U-joint

I have replaced many DS joints without balancing them and there was no vibration issue. The only time I will have them balanced is when cutting them for custom trans/ rear end installs. $25 per joint is the same price I have and a common, the 1350 1/2 shafts are about $5 more per joint.
DS joints are not too bad to do, you might give it a shot. I burn them all out and use a plate if doing 1/2 shafts. Prep and paint is time consuming but just the joints are an hour or less.

[Rob M.]

Re: Spicer U-joint

So, it sounds as though balancing the drive shaft is not really required when just replacing the u-joints. I am going to replace the u-joints because of a vibration that I feel when the car is under load between about 45-60 mph and about 1800-2500 rpm. The vibration goes away if I engage the clutch at same speed.

I don't notice a vibration at low speeds. The 1/2 shaft u-joints have recently been replaced with Spicers, so I doubt they are the issue.

Am I all wrong is thinking the drive shaft u-joints?

[Gary R.]

Re: Spicer U-joint

Rob
How are the motor and trans mounts? Do the joints fit tight in the yokes? Was there any damage to driveshaft or did any of the weights come off?

[Rob M.]

Re: Spicer U-joint

Motor mounts are new and joints fit nicely in the yokes. But, the u-joints have have not been addressed since I've owned the car and I doubt ever on the driveshaft. They are the last likely culprits.

No damage to the driveshaft and if weights came off, I'm totally unaware.

[Gary R.]

Re: Spicer U-joint

Rob,
Since you have ruled out some of the other possibilities and given that DS condition may be unknown then you may want to get it checked and balanced. I always mark the front & rear of the shaft when removing so that is goes back in the same orientation but that is just the way I was taught a long time ago.

[Larry M.]

Re: Spicer U-joint

When rebuilding the rear suspension of my 1967 car a few years ago, I replaced the u-joints.... and then had the driveshaft balanced before installation "just in case." If I recall correctly, the balancing was about $100 for this work. Unless you find a very special (very old-fashioned) shop, the new balance weights are not like the old GM originals......but at least the driveshaft is balanced. They are not too noticeable. Not certain that I would do it again, though, unless I had known issues.

I used Federal-Mogul U-joints with GM/AC DELCO part numbers. They are closer to original appearance than the Spicers, but I believe that the Spicers are a better and stronger u-joint. My days of 3000 RPM hole-shots and 7000 RPM shifts are (mostly) behind me, so I don't worry any about driveline breakage. I can provide u-joint part numbers if you request.

Larry

[Timothy B.]

Re: Spicer U-joint

Larry,

What are the FM part #'s as I will probably replace the joints on my 67 Ddrive shaft as I just completed the half shaft u-joints.

If anyone is going to balance there driveshaft make sure you take the transmission yoke also..

[Larry M.]

Re: Spicer U-joint

Larry,

What are the FM part #'s as I will probably replace the joints on my 67 Ddrive shaft as I just completed the half shaft u-joints.

If anyone is going to balance there driveshaft make sure you take the transmission yoke also..

Driveshaft joint is GM #89029327 or DELCO #45U0145 or FM Precision #269. Non greaseable, solid. Cost about $15 each.

Halfshaft joint (for those interested) is GM #89029305 or DELCO #45U0123 or FM Precision #231. Non greaseable, solid. Cost about $20 each.

I ordered through a local Chevrolet dealer (with a decent discount) and they arrived direct from the FM factory in Chicago. Had GM/DELCO boxes, etc.....but drop shipped from Federal-Mogul. Both of these u-joints look similar (but not exact) to originals.................the half-shaft u-joints look very similar. Driveshaft u-joints are not quite as close to originals.

Remove the U-joint caps and factory grease, and then re-grease with a quality wheel bearing lube before installing in your car.

Larry

[Gene M.]

Re: Spicer U-joint

For less than the cost of rebalance of your old drive shaft you can buy a brand new one with correct not jerk joints installed and ready to install it on the car. Long Island Corvette has them in stock #5171 @ $165 each. A no brainer if ya ask me.

[Larry M.]

Re: Spicer U-joint

For less than the cost of rebalance of your old drive shaft you can buy a brand new one with correct not jerk joints installed and ready to install it on the car. Long Island Corvette has them in stock #5171 @ $165 each. A no brainer if ya ask me.

Gene:

From a purely dollar standpoint, you are correct. But many of us like the challenge of working with and restoring these old/original parts.

But sometimes a reproduction/replacement is needed.

Larry

[Gene M.]

Re: Spicer U-joint

I agree, and I do appreciate your intent to restore. I always try to save the "original" pieces. But the drive shaft is not the typical easy to view (judge) piece. And for piece of mind it is not the type of part ya want to blow apart at 70 MPH. After all the rust and stress of 40 plus years of use and restoring it by turning it down to remove any traces of rust the tube becomes thinner. Bead blasting or wire wheel marks do not look as original. This is a difficult part to restore and look correct and still be as safe. Any type of finish (paint, wax, oil etc) is not going to look correct. This was a bare metal part when new and had no protection.

True well preserved southwestern cars don't run into this rust problem. But us guys in the snow belts do.......

[Timothy B.]

Re: Spicer U-joint

Driveshaft joint is GM #89029327 or DELCO #45U0145 or FM Precision #269. Non greaseable, solid. Cost about $15 each.

Halfshaft joint (for those interested) is GM #89029305 or DELCO #45U0123 or FM Precision #231. Non greaseable, solid. Cost about $20 each

I ordered through a local Chevrolet dealer (with a decent discount) and they arrived direct from the FM factory in Chicago. Had GM/DELCO boxes, etc.....but drop shipped from Federal-Mogul. Both of these u-joints look similar (but not exact) to originals.................the half-shaft u-joints look very similar. Driveshaft u-joints are not quite as close to originals.

Remove the U-joint caps and factory grease, and then re-grease with a quality wheel bearing lube before installing in your car.

Larry

Larry,

I just replaced the half shaft joints on my 67 with the Delco 45U0123 and I could not tell the difference between the original joints and the replacements they were so close. There is a slight difference in the dust cap seal but the body looked the same. If I understand you the FM joint is the same as GM and made for GM/Delco.

Probably be ahead if I just buy the driveshaft joints from FM.. Thanks for the info..