Grinding Gears
nd and 4thAt any rate, does the fact that the grinding only happens when shiftinginto 2nd and 4th mean anything? Is there a chance that this is a simplematter related to the shifter, or is something likely broken inside thetransmission, possibly in the side cover detent assembly? I would appreciate any suggestions as tofurther trouble shooting or repair. Thanks.
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Re: Grinding Gears
Dan grinding is not a good thing. sounds like internal problems since its only 2nd and 4th. Its likely a sycro. problem, The sliders hang up (part of the sycro) and with cause this problem.New England chapter member, 63 Convert. 327/340- Chapter/Regional/national Top Flight, 72 coupe- chapter and regional Top Flight. -
Re: Grinding Gears
Dan, I'm not a transmission expert but I agree with Ed. I don't know what kind of oil you're running, but I've heard that GL5 can corrode the synchronizers. I can't independently confirm this, but Red Line Oil has some hype for thier GL4 synthetics that effectively states this. Once again, I can't confirm whether or not this is true.
http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performan...44471/10002/-1
PaulComment
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Re: Grinding Gears
Thanks Edward and Paul. I'm afraid that's the answer I was expecting. I think I'll wait until the Virginia weather cools down before I start pulling things apart. Paul, thanks for the links regarding oil.
DanComment
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Re: Grinding Gears
The most interesting part of this is that there is a lockout in the side cover to prevent second and fourth from moving at the same time. I suggest you have someone very knowledgable about Muncies with you when you disassemble the trans. The SHOULD be no relationship between the two.Bill Clupper #618Comment
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Re: Grinding Gears
I would consider the clutch disc also because it may be wore thin.Comment
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Re: Grinding Gears
Tim, I think a clutch disc problem might not be a issue since its only 2ND and 4TH gears. What I see when a clutch disc wears to the point of replacement or badly worn, Is slipping and a high release point on the pedal.New England chapter member, 63 Convert. 327/340- Chapter/Regional/national Top Flight, 72 coupe- chapter and regional Top Flight.Comment
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Thanks Tim and Bill. I understand that the travel range of the pressure plate gets out of whack as the disc gets too thin. Since it looks like everything needs to come apart, I will do the clutch also.
DanComment
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Re: Grinding Gears
Dan,
I would do a linkage adjustment before you look inside because of the bind up problem you said happened while in reverse.
A munci can be in reverse and any forward gear at the same time causing a locked up transmission.
That was a dirty trick that was done to nasty people.
All you had to do was lay on your back and reach the reverse lever on the trans and move it into reverse.
There was no way the shifter could work and it would have to be released at the trans to get it normal again.
I have seen this happen with linkage that was out of adjustment and your bind up in reverse may be a sign that you need to adjust your linkage.
DOMComment
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Re: Grinding Gears
Dan,
I have to agree with Dom. I had a muncie with a worn Mr. Gasket shifter that would leave the transmission in one gear when trying to shift to another. The reverse and forward gear being simultaneously engaged also happened although less frequently. The shifter would bind up and require a trip under the car and often very inconveniently.
You didn't indicate if you have a stock or aftermarket shifter. Is it possible to shift into 2nd and 4th and it is just difficult? Does it always grind into 2nd and 4th?
If your transmission has been grinding, then the blocking rings (syncros) may be worn on the inside tapered diameter. If they are, then they will not speed up or slow down the gear on the output shaft to allow the hub to engage the gear with the shaft. The hub making an effort to engage the gear is where grinding occurs. The teeth on the blocking rings will also wear since they are brass which can also make engagement more difficult. I would believe that all of your blocking rings or only one would have a problem if you had an internal problem especially with only 46,000 miles. The clutch might need replacing if the car has seen a lot of stop and go or city traffic.
I would be inclined to believe that the shifter is the culprit. The problem is related to directional movement. It may not be pulling the levers completely out of 1st or 3rd before trying to engage 2nd or 4th. Make sure that it is not loose and the bolts that secure it to the side of the transmission housing are tight. It is possible that the shifter has worn or is malfunctioning in some manner to cause your problem. Since you have not indicated a problem with 1st or 3rd, I would think that the clutch is not the problem. Be careful about adjusting out to much of the free play, because that could cause the clutch fork to engage the throw-out bearing on a regular basis causing a shorter service life.
I would make sure that the shifter is working correctly before taking everything apart unless you are sure that everything else is in need of an overhaul.
Good luck with your transmission.
Would you consider e-mailing me when you get everything sorted out? I am very curious.
Thank you,
SteveComment
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Re: Grinding Gears
keep in mind that a proper muncie side cover with all parts functioning will NOT allow the problem as described to occur. First I would pull the side cover off and look for problems, before getting deeper. If reverse is engaging at an inopportune time, a shifter adjustment is needed, BADLYBill Clupper #618Comment
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Thanks. Based on these replies, I am getting a better understanding of what might be happening with the shifter. I will explore that further before I tear anything apart. Since theproblem seemed to develop rather quickly, the shifter diagnosisseems to make sense.
DanComment
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