1962 Fuel Injected 360hp 327CI problem

[Edward H.]

Having a little problem getting the 62 to run smoothly.

A little recap with some details. Of course the project is taking longer than planned. I completed the chassis a year and a half ago. Engine rebuild complete, adjusted valves, electronic one wire ignition, AC 46 plugs, newly rebuilt FI etc. (bascially everything new). I set up a small panel with switch, starter button, ballast resistor and oil pressure guage so I could see if the engine would start. No cooling system.

With 93 octane pump gas, the engine started after a few trys (with a little starting fluid help) - ran beautiful and smooth. I would run it for 5-10 seconds then shut it down (no cooling system). I would restart 10min. later and do the same 5-10 seconds.

I repeated this every 2-3 months - no problems, ran smooth idled nicely.

Last Nov., before paint I ran it with 93 + a heavy dose of Stabil through the system because I figured it would be 6-8 months before I could start it again. It ran rough and smoked badly. I figured that was just the Stabil, so that's the way I shut it down and didn't run it for 6 months.

The next run (after paint) with the body on, I put 10 gal. of 93 pump gas in with an octane booster. Still ran very rough and smoked.

Now, two months later I changed the plugs (plugs didn't look too bad - one gap was way low) to AC R45S (someone suggested trying R45S) and started yesterday. Basically same problem rough and smokey. With increased throttle it seems like it would clear for a second, but, still would not idle. Hard to investigate because I don't want to run it for more than a few seconds without cooling.

• I think it's getting plenty of fuel because it doesn't hesitate when throttle is increased.
• Timing seems ok, starts fairly easily and doesn't backfire.
• New plugs and electronic ignition, so spark shouldn't be a problem.

The only thing left for me to try is to drain the tank (maybe too much octane booster) and put in Sunoco 110 (I found a local source @ $10/gal). I'll recheck the plug wires also to make sure I didn't cross two of them. After that I'm not sure where to go??

Could I have damaged valves? Running without coolant? Fuel filter problem?

Any ideas appreciated.
__________________________________________________ ______________________________
This morning (7/31/12) I drained the tank and put in 10 gal. of Sunoco 110 leaded. I checked the plug wires - all ok. I checked the distributor - it's tight, so I don't think the timing has changed. (can't check it because I can't get it to idle).

Started it and it seemed to clear. Shut it down and 20 min. later started it again. SAME PROBLEM, smoke (gray-black) and very rough - won't idle.

[Matt L.]

Re: 1962 Fuel Injected 360hp 327CI problem

i had the same issue with my 64 375R . it was the cranking signal valve. but i am not familar with the 62 unit. try that 1st if it has one.

take care,
matt

[Gordon W.]

Re: 1962 Fuel Injected 360hp 327CI problem

Did you break in the cam? The way I read it you did a series of cold starts and let it idle.

[Jim L.]

Re: 1962 Fuel Injected 360hp 327CI problem

My money is on a failed Cranking Signal Valve.

Try this: Temporarily replace the 1" section of rubber hose at the CSV with a 10" section, formed into a loop. Start the engine and immediately pinch the loop of rubber hose completely shut. If the engine smooths out, it's definitely a CSV failure.

Jim

[William C.]

Re: 1962 Fuel Injected 360hp 327CI problem

Just a thought, the "S" plugs are an extended tip plug, not intended for use if you kept the popup pistons, probably not related to your current problem but you will find it the first time you run it to redline.

[John D.]

Re: 1962 Fuel Injected 360hp 327CI problem

Edward, Overdoing the Stabil is not a good thing. Then you let the engine set for 6 months or so. I have seen what an overdose of gas stabilizer does to an FI unit. It basically clogs it up big time.
Jim Lockwoods instructions are excellent. But if taking the CSV (cranking signal valve) out of the system doesn't help then I would think you might have a stuck spill valve. A spill valve is like the an accelerator pump in a carburetor.
No where in your instructions did you say anything about back firing. Back firing is very hard on the CSV's.
But it's strange that you had to use starting fluid from the get go. l
Is you electric choke hooked up in the 62? Problem you have is you really need a radiator hooked up Edward. You see it takes at least 6 minutes for the choke to open up fully on your 62. So the richness could be coming from a combination of problems.
#1. Not letting the engine run enough. #2. Stuck spill valve. #3. Issues with the cranking signal valve.

Remove the cranking signal valve and send it to me for free testing. It's really easy for all of us to blame everything on the cranking signal valve when in fact other you could have other problems.
To Repeat: FI's do not like short periods of running and shutting down. They need to go thru a cycle. Even though its a 100 degrees outside the old FI's like some a choke.
Your 62 FI is the first FI to have a true choke in that RP robbed the parts and idea from a carburetor. So 62 thru 65 had a real choke. The 57 to 61 did not have a choke at all. They had a cold enrichment which we nickname choke.
A 62 FI is an excellent unit after you get buy the wild choke on it. I assume you put 12 Volts to the choke harness. John
P.S. I reread all the posts. Your CSV is history. Send it to me anyhow for testing if you like.

[Edward H.]

Re: 1962 Fuel Injected 360hp 327CI problem

Thanks for all the responses. Gary Hodges is sending a new CSV to try. I'll keep you posted.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ________
Having a little problem getting the 62 to run smoothly.

A little recap with some details. Of course the project is taking longer than planned. I completed the chassis a year and a half ago. Engine rebuild complete, adjusted valves, electronic one wire ignition, AC 46 plugs, newly rebuilt FI etc. (bascially everything new). I set up a small panel with switch, starter button, ballast resistor and oil pressure guage so I could see if the engine would start. No cooling system.

With 93 octane pump gas, the engine started after a few trys (with a little starting fluid help) - ran beautiful and smooth. I would run it for 5-10 seconds then shut it down (no cooling system). I would restart 10min. later and do the same 5-10 seconds.

I repeated this every 2-3 months - no problems, ran smooth idled nicely.

Last Nov., before paint I ran it with 93 + a heavy dose of Stabil through the system because I figured it would be 6-8 months before I could start it again. It ran rough and smoked badly. I figured that was just the Stabil, so that's the way I shut it down and didn't run it for 6 months.

The next run (after paint) with the body on, I put 10 gal. of 93 pump gas in with an octane booster. Still ran very rough and smoked.

Now, two months later I changed the plugs (plugs didn't look too bad - one gap was way low) to AC R45S (someone suggested trying R45S) and started yesterday. Basically same problem rough and smokey. With increased throttle it seems like it would clear for a second, but, still would not idle. Hard to investigate because I don't want to run it for more than a few seconds without cooling.

• I think it's getting plenty of fuel because it doesn't hesitate when throttle is increased.
• Timing seems ok, starts fairly easily and doesn't backfire.
• New plugs and electronic ignition, so spark shouldn't be a problem.

The only thing left for me to try is to drain the tank (maybe too much octane booster) and put in Sunoco 110 (I found a local source @ $10/gal). I'll recheck the plug wires also to make sure I didn't cross two of them. After that I'm not sure where to go??

Could I have damaged valves? Running without coolant? Fuel filter problem?

Any ideas appreciated.
__________________________________________________ ______________________________
This morning (7/31/12) I drained the tank and put in 10 gal. of Sunoco 110 leaded. I checked the plug wires - all ok. I checked the distributor - it's tight, so I don't think the timing has changed. (can't check it because I can't get it to idle).

Started it and it seemed to clear. Shut it down and 20 min. later started it again. SAME PROBLEM, smoke (gray-black) and very rough - won't idle.
[/QUOTE]

[James G.]

Re: 1962 Fuel Injected 360hp 327CI problem

I also agree with GORDON

''Did you break in the cam? The way I read it you did a series of cold starts and let it idle.''

Todays engine oil if not chosen carefully will wipe a cam lobe quickly. You need to go back to square one. Coolant, 12 volts to choke......clean plugs and then start the engine and ''IMMEDIATELY'' bring the RPM to 2500-2700 RPM. Let it run for at least 20 minutes at that level, then bring the idle down and turn the engine off. Let it cool, then re-adjust the valves, re-check the distributor dwell and base timing, then restart and do final idle and cold idle adjustments. Finally take the car for a ride.

I always had my engines DYNOED at the builders shop to go thru this break in process prior to installing in the chassis. That way I ''knew'' from the get go, that the engine was ''good to go'', with no problems.

[Edward H.]

Re: 1962 Fuel Injected 360hp 327CI problem

Well, it was the CSV (cranking signal valve). Runs fine now. Thanks for all your suggestions.

Edward, Overdoing the Stabil is not a good thing. Then you let the engine set for 6 months or so. I have seen what an overdose of gas stabilizer does to an FI unit. It basically clogs it up big time.
Jim Lockwoods instructions are excellent. But if taking the CSV (cranking signal valve) out of the system doesn't help then I would think you might have a stuck spill valve. A spill valve is like the an accelerator pump in a carburetor.
No where in your instructions did you say anything about back firing. Back firing is very hard on the CSV's.
But it's strange that you had to use starting fluid from the get go. l
Is you electric choke hooked up in the 62? Problem you have is you really need a radiator hooked up Edward. You see it takes at least 6 minutes for the choke to open up fully on your 62. So the richness could be coming from a combination of problems.
#1. Not letting the engine run enough. #2. Stuck spill valve. #3. Issues with the cranking signal valve.

Remove the cranking signal valve and send it to me for free testing. It's really easy for all of us to blame everything on the cranking signal valve when in fact other you could have other problems.
To Repeat: FI's do not like short periods of running and shutting down. They need to go thru a cycle. Even though its a 100 degrees outside the old FI's like some a choke.
Your 62 FI is the first FI to have a true choke in that RP robbed the parts and idea from a carburetor. So 62 thru 65 had a real choke. The 57 to 61 did not have a choke at all. They had a cold enrichment which we nickname choke.
A 62 FI is an excellent unit after you get buy the wild choke on it. I assume you put 12 Volts to the choke harness. John
P.S. I reread all the posts. Your CSV is history. Send it to me anyhow for testing if you like.

[Gordon W.]

Re: 1962 Fuel Injected 360hp 327CI problem

Glad to hear it!

[John D.]

Re: 1962 Fuel Injected 360hp 327CI problem

Ed and others here. This is a good post with a lesson learned. Here is the lesson that was covered by Lockwood, etc in other replies.
When in doubt about the cranking signal valve just take it out of the system. Carry a 6' piece of 1/4" ID hose in your tool box. Say you are driving and the pain in the butt CSV takes a powder. Just install a longer piece of rubber hose between the CSV and the vacuum line. To do this you must loosend the vacuum line and swing it in a direction so you have the space to put a piece of hose on long enough so you can put a clamp or even vise grips on the rubber to squeeze it shut.
You can then drive the car across the country like this.
But if you were really smart you would carry a spare with you.
Carry a spare drive cable and cranking signal valve if you own a 58 to E64 fuel car.