1954 New Engine Startup Procedure Advice Needed

[John L.]

I need some help in what I need to have connected to the transmission for this start up.

1) Since the electrical system is not in place I will not have the neutral safety switch hooked up.
2) Do I need to have the shift linkage installed so I can start the car in neutral or park or does it matter?

4) I thought I would have to find neutral anyways so I can check and add transmission fluid while the engine is completing initial run in or could I wait until I am finished and add the remainder of the transmission fluid at the very end.

Have not done an initial startup such as this so I have a lot of questions so any helpful advice is most appreciated.
Thanks,
John Lanning

[Paul J.]

Re: 1954 New Engine Startup Procedure Advice Needed

John, I can answer part of your question. You run the engine for 15 to 25 minutes at 2500 rpm ( or whatever is appropriate for 6 cylinders) to break in the cam. This will not seat the rings. To seat the rings you must follow a procedure of light loadings on the engine. See post #10 in the link below, and follow the link therein.

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...t=engine+break

I agree that you should fill the transmission and keep it in neutral or park. You don't gain a whole lot by "bench" testing or running it without load, and I would concentrate on the engine. Top all of the fluids off after the initial run.

Paul

[Tim E.]

Re: 1954 New Engine Startup Procedure Advice Needed

Paul has provided good advice on the prep, start, and run-in procedure. Don't have anything further to add to that.

The need for a neutral safety switch depends on the wiring harness you plan to use. If you'll use the car harness then yes, you'll either need a switch in the netral position or a jumper. The switch does not need to be mounted, it just needs to pass current.

If you have made your own harness, then you won't need the switch.

You should not need shift linkage or the kick down assembly but you will need a way (either the lever part of the shift linkage or something as simple as vise grips) to find neutral before you start up.

Personally, I'd get the fluid topped off fairly quickly just to make sure the transmission oil pump doesn't cavitate. I'd also shift through the gears to circulate fluid through the entire valve body.

You mention a cooling fan. I'd suggest putting the biggest box fan you can find in front of and blowing air directly at the radiator. Without a shroud, the stock fan may lose too much efficiency.

[John L.]

Re: 1954 New Engine Startup Procedure Advice Needed

Thank you Paul and Tim for the expert advice.....I guess I was mistaken on the short initial break in run. I did have it in my notes about the first drive and the speeds I needed to run to set the rings. Memory loss I guess.
I am planning on having 2 fans in front of the radiator to push more air through as Tim suggested. No wiring harness on this start up only a remote switch and basic wiring to the points and starter so I will not need to hook up the neutral switch. Really it seems not to worry about the accelerator kick down linkage either but certainly need to find park/neutral.
Hopefully will be ready in the next couple weekends to start up .... and if the support team is avaialble as well Ha!

[Guy M.]

Re: 1954 New Engine Startup Procedure Advice Needed

To answer some of the questions, Tranny, start with 4 quarts, once running for a few start adding fluid, will take a total 12 quarts I believe. I believe you will need the yoke in there to keep the fluid in. You dont need the kick down or neutral switch in place. Make sure all the bots on side covers are good and tight, mine still ozzes. The main tranny linkage would be advisabe to find neutral, one click towards rear........Be sure to use a break in oil, I have Joe Gibbs in mine for a while, need the zink. I connected my choke cables to the carb for easy management. It will crank for 6 or 7 times till gas gets up there, make sure the coil is hooked up to the + side of batery and use a thick wire switch. I use 91 octane. Keep the fuel pump to wiper motor vaccume line open, it will bounce around if its closed. Make sure all connections are tight. Let her rip and check for leaks. Have fun! Guy

[John L.]

Re: 1954 New Engine Startup Procedure Advice Needed

Guy - thanks for the additional information ..... I knew I could count on you for your insight especially since I believe it has not been long since you were at this point. Ha and yes I do remember a previous suggestion you had to hang kitty litter filled coffee cans under each carb to catch the drips to save the frame paint!!

OK a couple more question:
at the begining of the start up procedure I was planning on removing the distributor and spinning the oil pump with an electric drill to get oil circulating up to the rocker arms and such before cranking the engine. Additionally there was a suggestion somewhere I read to fill the carb bowls. Has anyone else done this as well and how would you suggest accomplishing this?


Does anyone have a simple schematic for the electric hook up between the coil, starter solinid, battery, and push button starter.... planning on having a disconnect on the battery but have also seen a set up with a toggle switch to kill the power mounted on a test panel next to the starter push button. Simple stuff I know but I appreciate a second check.
Thanks to all for your advice!!!
John Lanning

[Paul J.]

Re: 1954 New Engine Startup Procedure Advice Needed

OK a couple more question:
at the begining of the start up procedure I was planning on removing the distributor and spinning the oil pump with an electric drill to get oil circulating up to the rocker arms and such before cranking the engine. Additionally there was a suggestion somewhere I read to fill the carb bowls. Has anyone else done this as well and how would you suggest accomplishing this?
John Lanning

Yes you should bring the oil to the top of the engine. I have an old distributor shaft and housing that I spin with a drill to do this. Pull the valve cover and when you see oil flow, you're good to go. I usually just crank it to fill the bowls.

[Guy M.]

Re: 1954 New Engine Startup Procedure Advice Needed

I agree with Paul, I just cranked mine, those filter caps on top of the fuel bowls need to be really tight or they leak. I just disconnect the negitive battery cable to kill the engine. Mine flooded the first time so be ready to kill it if excessive fuel comes out. I cut off the end of a long screwdriver to prime the oil pump, you really need to prime it. Also make sure the distributer is not 180 degrees out or it will never start. I cranked 10 seconds at a time. As far as starter switch, go from + on battery to one side of switch and the other wire to the top terminal on selonoid. Connect + on battery with the same I believe on coil. Thats all you need to make it run. With a fresh battery it should work. I leave mine on a battery tender when done. Initial start up was nerve racking for me, wondering if anything was going to blow or leak, and there were oil leaks.

[Tim E.]

Re: 1954 New Engine Startup Procedure Advice Needed

John - I'm attaching a document that contains instructions and a schematic for an Engine Test Dashboard and minimal wiring harness. I built this for my 12v 1966 but don't see a reason it wouldn't work on a 6v system as well. Email me at tim.ehlers@att.net if you want a version of this document with pictures or have any questions on its design or construction. Tim

[Chris S.]

Re: 1954 New Engine Startup Procedure Advice Needed

Have a fire ext standing by - the carbs leak !
Cover the drivers side of the frame by the engine- the carbs leak when you shut the motor off
Prime the oil pump - Check your oil pressure
Use a break in type oil
place the rear end on jack stands - if you have the driveshaft installed.
- you may have to place your hands over the carbs to get fuel up to the bowls - helps to pull the fuel up
check for leaks - check your fuel lines

[John L.]

Re: 1954 New Engine Startup Procedure Advice Needed

WHAT GREAT SUGGESTIONS!
I believe I have much to go with this weekend. Have a couple last minute parts to track down but I understand what is needed.
Thank you Tim for the schematics on the "test box".
Regarding the timing and TDC of #1 clyinder.... I hand cranked the motor until I felt the compression out of the #1 spark plug hole and then the mark on the flywheel (the silver BB) lined up with the pointer. That is the point at which I set the rotor at #1 spark plug wire (approximately 6:00 on the distributor cap) and a good fit of the distributer shaft into the oil pump slot. Numerous posts on timing the 6 clyider engines so this is what I intrepetted this as being the right process.
thanks for everyone's help!
John