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Lifters Continued

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  • Bob W.
    Expired
    • August 31, 1981
    • 84

    Lifters Continued

    Upon further inspection the lifters are not the culprit. One stud seems to be pulling out and I can't get any adjustment before the nut bottoms out. I appears the studs are pressed in, is that correct?
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  • Gene M.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • April 1, 1985
    • 4232

    #2
    Re: Lifters Continued

    Bob, yes the early small blocks had pressed in studs. They can be machined for screw in studs. Some later HP small blocks had screw in studs with guide plates.

    Comment

    • Bob W.
      Expired
      • August 31, 1981
      • 84

      #3
      Re: Lifters Continued

      As long as the heads are off, is there anything I need to do to run unleaded gas or don't bother.

      Comment

      • Joe L.
        Beyond Control Poster
        • February 1, 1988
        • 43193

        #4
        Re: Lifters Continued

        Originally posted by Bob Wheeler (4809)
        As long as the heads are off, is there anything I need to do to run unleaded gas or don't bother.

        Bob------


        Don't bother installing hardened exhaust seats.

        There are 3 ways to repair the stud problem:

        1) Install an oversize stud available from GM. A 0.003" oversize stud is available from GM under GM #3814692. Follow instructions in the service or overhaul manuals for installation. However, I do not recommend this fix. Very often the stud will pull out again.

        2) Remove the existing stud and drill and tap the existing boss for a non-flanged type, threaded stud. This type of stud is available from Pioneer and Dorman Products. This type of repair is the best way to go if you are only going to replace the one stud. It's also a good way to go if you are going to replace all the studs and you want them to appear as much like stock as possible but with the advantage of them being screw-in type studs that will not pull out and can be easily replaced;

        3) Remove the stud, have the boss machined down and drill and tap for flanged type, screw-in studs. This is the best way to go if you want to convert all the studs to screw-in type and you don't care about retaining the original configuration. This is the style studs that were used on 1969-81 small blocks with SHP (e.g. Z-28, LT-1, L-82). With this style stud, guide plates can also be installed, if desired.

        One more repair methodology I should have mentioned: you can drive the stud back into the boss. Then, towards the bottom of the boss, drill a hole through the boss and the stud and install an interference fit, hardened pin through the hole. This is another repair methodology that I don't like, but many have done it effectively.
        In Appreciation of John Hinckley

        Comment

        • Timothy B.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • April 30, 1983
          • 5177

          #5
          Re: Lifters Continued

          Bob,

          You can remove the stud by using two rocker balls and the nut and wrench it out. If you are sure this stud is pulling out, Joe's idea #2 seems to be the best repair IMO. One more thing is to make sure the springs are the of the OE spec and not heavy springs. I owned a set of #461 heads once that had the rocker studs pinned and never had any problems.

          I would not have the heads plained unless they are checked first and determined NOT to be flat. Have the valve guides checked and pay attention to the valve stem height and rocker geometery.

          Comment

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