Winter Storage

[Luis R.]

Any tips on what's best when putting the car away for winter storage. If it's in a heated garage, is there any need to start the car regularly, is it even recommended? Other than changing the oil, putting fuel stabilizer in the tank, disconnecting the battery and putting on a car cover, is there anything else to do? What if the car is kept in a cold garage - is there anything different i should be doing? Do I have to worry about the water/slush that comes off my other car? Guidance is appreciated.

[Jim L.]

Re: Winter Storage

Don't over think the problem. All you need to do is to hook up a battery minder and resist the temptation to go start the car periodically. Next spring, it will be just fine.

Jim

[Kenneth B.]

Re: Winter Storage

YES you should worry about the SNERT ( snow/saltdirt) It wlll rust the frame ETC.If you have a garage with a drain make sure you wash the floor after the other car drops the slush on the floor. All I do anymore is disconnect the barrery put on a good trickel charger & cover till the spring.

[Michael W.]

Re: Winter Storage

Do not start the engine- there is no benefit and you'll just add another cycle condensation on the rest of the car by running it in and back out of the garage, not to mention wear and tear. Try to choose a garage that is stable in temperature and humidity again to avoid condensation. Connect a battery minder and let it slumber peacefully.

[Kenneth B.]

Re: Winter Storage

Do not start the engine- there is no benefit and you'll just add another cycle condensation on the rest of the car by running it in and back out of the garage, not to mention wear and tear. Try to choose a garage that is stable in temperature and humidity again to avoid condensation. Connect a battery minder and let it slumber peacefully.

Thats what I found works best.I finally moved to AZ. so I can drive mine all year long with NO snow!

[John S.]

Re: Winter Storage

in a unheated garage place 4 pieces of 4'x8' greenboard under car. greenboard can be used all year and is very durable. disconnect negative side of battery, no need to use fuel stabilizer, a bar or two of irish spring in or around car to deter mice and a breathable cover. to avoid a flat spot on tires i push the car a foot or so after a few months. if dealing with a very early C1 powerglide i shut the car off in reverse. this seems to deter the chance of the transmission burping at startup.

[Terry M.]

Re: Winter Storage

I change oil before putting the car to rest for the winter. That way it is fresh to go in the Spring.

[Duke W.]

Re: Winter Storage

Fill the fuel tank with fresh fuel just prior to storage. I've never used any kind of fuel stabilizer and have never had any fuel system related problems in twenty-plus years of storing my vehicles for up to a year.

Also, fill the tires to the maximum cold pressure placarded on the sidewall or as least 35 psi. If flat spots develop from sitting for a few months they will "smooth out" on the first drive when the tires warm up. There's no need to roll the car during a few months of winter storage. Temporary flat spots are most common on tires with nylon cord, which nowadays means a high speed rated radial, which few vintage Corvette have installed. All my cars have high speed rated radials with nylon cap belts and flat spotting has never been a problem.

I would also recommend mouse traps/poison under the car, in the engine compartment, cockpit, and trunk.

Guys fret about "engine damage", and think they need to start the engine and warm it up every month. As stated, this is not necessarly and can even be harmful. By far the biggest storage risk is rodent damage.

If you drive home in a slushy, saltly car, leave it outside overnight. Putting it in a warm garage will allow the corrosion gemlins to work all night and possibly affect the stored car. If you leave the daily driver outside and the slush freezes overnight the corrosion gremlins are asleep, too. Electolytic corrosion requires liquid water.

There are a lot of "winter storage" discussions in the archives.

Duke

[Kenneth B.]

Re: Winter Storage

Fill the fuel tank with fresh fuel just prior to storage. I've never used any kind of fuel stabilizer and have never had any fuel system related problems in twenty-plus years of storing my vehicles for up to a year.

Also, fill the tires to the maximum cold pressure placarded on the sidewall or as least 35 psi. If flat spots develop from sitting for a few months they will "smooth out" on the first drive when the tires warm up. There's no need to roll the car during a few months of winter storage. Temporary flat spots are most common on tires with nylon cord, which nowadays means a high speed rated radial, which few vintage Corvette have installed. All my cars have high speed rated radials with nylon cap belts and flat spotting has never been a problem.

I would also recommend mouse traps/poison under the car, in the engine compartment, cockpit, and trunk.

Guys fret about "engine damage", and think they need to start the car and warm it up every month. As stated, this is not necessarly and can even be harmful. By far the biggest storage risk is rodent damage.

If you drive home in a slushy, saltly car, leave it outside overnight. Putting it in a warm garage will allow the corrosion gemlins to work all night and possibley affect the stored car. If you leave the daily driver outside and the slush freezes overnight the corrosion gremlins are asleep, too. Electolytic corrosion requires liquid water.

Duke

DUKE
I will bet that the wife will not buy leaving the car out all night in zero weather or snow. Remember if she an't happy your not going to be happy on cold winter nights. LOL

[Terry M.]

Re: Winter Storage

Also, fill the tires to the maximum cold pressure placarded on the sidewall or as least 35 psi. If flat spots develop from sitting for a few months they will "smooth out" on the first drive when the tires warm up. There's no need to roll the car during a few months of winter storage. Temporary flat spots are most common on tires with nylon cord, which nowadays means a high speed rated radial, which few vintage Corvette have installed. All my cars have high speed rated radials with nylon cap belts and flat spotting has never been a problem.
Duke

Originally ALL the 1968-1972 tires installed on Corvettes were Nylon Cord, and the reproduction F70x15 from Kelsey are also Nylon Cord. These will all flat-spot like mad, even in a 6-months winter storage. Not withstanding that I have not had issues with that flat-spot going away after the tires heated up in normal driving. Since my 1970 has sat for a decade on them I might be faced with a challenge when it goes into service again. I suspect, however, tire flat spots will be the least of my problems in putting it back in service.

[John M.]

Re: Winter Storage

Bring her to me down and Fl. I'll drive it all winter so she will be ready to go in the spring. Man Its hot here in the summer but at least we can drive our cars all winter. Good luck.

[Terry M.]

Re: Winter Storage

Bring her to me down and Fl. I'll drive it all winter so she will be ready to go in the spring. Man Its hot here in the summer but at least we can drive our cars all winter. Good luck.

I hope you mean when there is no hurricane.

[John S.]

Re: Winter Storage

[QUOTE=Duke Williams (22045);629237]Fill the fuel tank with fresh fuel just prior to storage. I've never used any kind of fuel stabilizer and have never had any fuel system related problems in twenty-plus years of storing my vehicles for up to a year.

i would add fresh gas, but not completely fill the tank. why fill the tank with gas that will sit for six months. on top of that many states are now selling a winter grade gas. my C4 will always fail an emission test if it has the winter grade gas.

[Terry M.]

Re: Winter Storage

[QUOTE=John Scopelite (50653);629248]

Fill the fuel tank with fresh fuel just prior to storage. I've never used any kind of fuel stabilizer and have never had any fuel system related problems in twenty-plus years of storing my vehicles for up to a year.

i would add fresh gas, but not completely fill the tank. why fill the tank with gas that will sit for six months. on top of that many states are now selling a winter grade gas. my C4 will always fail an emission test if it has the winter grade gas.

John, I fill the gas tank to prevent internal condensation and possible corrosion of the fuel sending units. The one year I did not fill all the way up before putting it away I had "issues" with the fuel gauge in the 2008 and just narrowly missed having to have the fuel tanks removed to replace the corroded sending unit. If I didn't have the extended warranty that charge is in the range of $1500 for my C6. I will not take that risk again.

[Michael J.]

Re: Winter Storage

Originally ALL the 1968-1972 tires installed on Corvettes were Nylon Cord, and the reproduction F70x15 from Kelsey are also Nylon Cord. These will all flat-spot like mad, even in a 6-months winter storage. Not withstanding that I have not had issues with that flat-spot going away after the tires heated up in normal driving. Since my 1970 has sat for a decade on them I might be faced with a challenge when it goes into service again. I suspect, however, tire flat spots will be the least of my problems in putting it back in service.

That's interesting, I didn't know the '68-'72 Corvettes didn't use the belted Polyglas Goodyear tires other muscle cars of the era came with. Wonder why?