Pressing new bypass pipes into intake and waterpump

[Bruce T.]

I am replacing the bypass pipes on both my intake and waterpump. This is on a 1966 396 in my El Camino, but should be the same as 1966 427 with the 948 cast iron intake and the 284 waterpump. I bought the two pipes from Corvette Central for that application and they appear to be good replacements. I was able to remove the pipe from the intake by welding a bolt to it and spinning it out. I assume that I can remove the one from the water pump in the same manner. Is there a better way to do this that won't risk cracking the pump housing? And are there any tips for reinstalling these pipes? I was assuming that I could just press them back in, but maybe I need to warm up the cast iron and chill the pipe, first?

[Keith B.]

Re: Pressing new bypass pipes into intake and waterpump

I went though three different nipples from three different vendors because two of them were not the correct size. the one I bought from Paragon was the correct size. I never tried CC. after I removed the old nipple I just cleaned the hole a little and put a little lock tight on the nipple and placed it over the hole and used a block of wood and hammer and drove it in the intake making sure I had it the correct length sticking out the intake

[Bruce T.]

Re: Pressing new bypass pipes into intake and waterpump

Thank you for the reply, Keith. You make it sound easier than I was thinking it might be. Using locktite for a sealer sounds good too!

[Joe C.]

Re: Pressing new bypass pipes into intake and waterpump

This is made for your application. It is a similar product to LokTite, in that it is anaerobic:

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/anaerobic_gasket_makers/Permatex_Anaerobic_Flange_Sealant_a.htm

[Donald H.]

Re: Pressing new bypass pipes into intake and waterpump

I don't have any experience with replacing the bypass nipples, but if you have a problem getting it in, you might try the following.

I had to replace the ball on the steering third arm on my 1960. It is a very tight inteference fit. The recommended approach was to cool the ball shaft in dry ice for a while and heat the corresponding hole in the third arm. Once I did this, the ball shaft was easy to tap into the hole and when cooled is not going anywhere.

Don

[Clem Z.]

Re: Pressing new bypass pipes into intake and waterpump

I don't have any experience with replacing the bypass nipples, but if you have a problem getting it in, you might try the following.

I had to replace the ball on the steering third arm on my 1960. It is a very tight inteference fit. The recommended approach was to cool the ball shaft in dry ice for a while and heat the corresponding hole in the third arm. Once I did this, the ball shaft was easy to tap into the hole and when cooled is not going anywhere.

Don

and you don't displace any material doing it this way

[Bruce T.]

Re: Pressing new bypass pipes into intake and waterpump

I appreciate the tips. Thank you, everyone!