I'm sure this has been covered many times, but I couldn't locate an appropriate post... in refurbishing my heater box ('67) I have had to remove the studs that penetrate the firewall to repair fiberglass. I've test fit new 5/32 rivets and can't get them to look like the originals. I assume there are tools available to shape the rivets correctly. Rather than reinvent the wheel I thought I'd ask the forum for suggestions. Thanks. John
Rivet Shaping
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Re: Rivet Shaping
John,
I use a air hammer tool set at about 15-20 psi with a special attachment I made from a old chisel head I cut up. I cupped the end to fit over the rivet end. That and a backing bar of heavy steel. You may want to practice on other pieces before you attempt it on that heater box.
Check this thread and other "Similar Threads" at the bottom of that page.
https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...t-Rivet-How-to
Rich
edit.......Here's a example.
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Re: Rivet Shaping
Same as Rich- I purchased a rivet gun from aircraft-tool. Works great! I also purchased the "back rivet" attachment where you can used the gun on the shank side of the rivet and use the backing bar on the head. The plastic collar makes a nice symmetric mushroom that looks factory. When sizing rivets, the general rule is the shank should protrude 1.5 X's the diameter of the shank on the back side of the surface. i.e. a .125" dia. shank will protrude approx .1875" length before riveting.
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Re: Rivet Shaping
Since I'm dealing with the heater box (and not anything that's attached to the car) It seems to me like I should be able to use a hammer and a set tool/clincher (with the rivet head against my anvil) and get a good shaped mushroom out of a semi tubular rivet.- Top
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Re: Rivet Shaping
Are you working with solid shank rivets or tube rivets? The heater box on my 70 used tube rivets. When I rebuilt my heater box I purchase the appropriate rivet set and rivets from these guys. I don't recall what size i used. The trick is to purchase the correct length and diameter rivet so the flared end looks and functions correctly. I think I ended up buying 2 different length rivets depending on grip length or thickness of materials to be riveted. Also, the rivet sets are different for each diameter of tube rivet your working with. The rivet set for the tube rivet is different then the rivet set for the solid shank rivet. If your not in a hurry I am willing to mail you my rivet sets but I don't know which sets i have, I'll have to look when I get home
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Re: Rivet Shaping
Hi Terry,
They are 5/32 dia semi tubular rivets. The original length is not going to work. I am going to need to use a longer rivet because I'm going to reinforce the flange of the heater box with another layer of fiberglass. The existing fiberglass has become too cracked and friable to simply patch. I've patched missing spots with structural fiberglass and they've turned out really well. But, its going to require the additional layer of FG to make the flange strong enough (it will be on the inside of the box so it won't be visible). Part of my concern in using an air gun is they are pretty rough and that FG seems to be easily damaged. I think that I could get a better feel for manually peening the rivet. I've also noticed the c-clamp style which seems like it might be worth a try.- Top
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Re: Rivet Shaping
The c-clamp rivet setting tool is probably better for what you want. I had forgotten about it. It has a nice set of dies and the rivet pressure can be easily managed.
Larry- Top
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