'60 Fuel Injection flooding fuel bowl

[Paul Y.]

Re: '60 Fuel Injection flooding fuel bowl

An axle link assembly would be bad if the axles in the moving parts such as the roller and the balance area are worn and have excess holes where they exist. I hope that makes sense to you. Paul

[Jim L.]

Re: '60 Fuel Injection flooding fuel bowl

1) torque specifications for---

a) nozzle assembly,

Just snug. Over tighten and you'll crush the edge of the internal filter screen

b) nozzle block retainers,

First, flatten the retainers. Then tighten the bolts until you just begin to feel the teeth of the star washers begin to bite and/or until you see the retainers just begin to deflect. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BOLTS TO THE POINT THAT THE RETAINERS ARE FLAT AGAINST THE NOZZLE BLOCK. THERE MUST BE A GAP BETWEEN THE RETAINERS AND THE NOZZLE BLOCK!

c) diaphragm self locking screws,

Snug

d) diaphragm lid screws,

Snug to the point that the split washers are just flat.

e) fuel bowl lid screws,

Same answer

and f) hi pressure pump mounting screws.

Same answer

2) How does an axle link go bad? If it's not broken, bent or otherwise damaged, what goes wrong?

The pivot pin hogs out the hole in the counterweight arm:



Some early axle and link assemblies have slender, pot metal arms that will sometimes spontaneously break. Not common but it happens.

Jim

[James G.]

Re: '60 Fuel Injection flooding fuel bowl

What a school George. I rebuilt 5 units on my own cars in my lifetime, and that was in 1969 thru 1999. So I am by no means any expert here. I did learn however, as you have, if you take your time and read thru the Service manual you can do the rebuilt. You are so correct that today, the internet allows everyone into the garage together and you get a great resource of help. Just amazing how everyone is helping. Reminds me of the old racing days, when someone broke....we all helped get the car and competitor back on the track for the next race. Isn't that how we won a few wars..........

[John D.]

Re: '60 Fuel Injection flooding fuel bowl

HI Jim, That pic of your axle link made me smile a bit. That baby is really shot isn't it.
The axle link assembly is the heart of the fuel injection guys. They part has to be balanced like a clock. If you grab the front of the roller and get much side to side movement then the part is history.
Now RP wasn't too fussy with their axle links in the old days as we are today. A typical NOS expensive Axle link assembly is seldom balanced perfectly. In fact I have never seen one on the money.
Not saying the FI unit won't run with a wore out link. But it sure won't operate correctly. If you find that adjusting the economy and power stop don't really do much-don't get much results then you can expect the link may be the culprit.
I like your answers Jim.

Nozzle block torque question. Don't worry about using a feeler gauge between the center of the H-shaped steel retainer and the black plastic nozzle block. I tell people you should be able to slip a business card between the center of the steel retainer and the nozzle block. Or you should at least see a gap betwen the two parts. Failure to have this gap will cause the nozzle block to crack/break.

Nozzle retainers: When you remove on it has a bow in it. When youo reinstall it put the bow up and gently tighten the 1/4" nozzle bolt. Here is a problem I see way too much on nozzle blocks. The botttom brass pieces are breaking out. So don't overtighten the nozzle blocks. It's not going anywhere. And don't use the gasket over again.

[George W.]

Re: '60 Fuel Injection flooding fuel bowl

Thanks Jim
good photos
i'd like to speak with you--call or pm your number if you'd be so kind;
210-748-4693