steering wheel/hub and more

[Wolf S.]

[Jim S.]

Re: steering wheel/hub and more

That "large plastic toothed washer" is actually a plastic retainer (insulator) under the big telescope spring. It is a safety part the insures that the c-clip washer stays in place. It also has another function in that it insulates the big spring from touching any metal steering column parts that would ground the horn. The spring should be on top of the plastic retainer. If you look closely there are three brass contacts that are part of the cancelling cam that is fitted underneath the toothed locking plate. The three contacts extend up through the locking plate and there is clearance in the ears of the retainer so that the big spring rests on those contacts.

I have no idea why there are two chisel marks on the end of the upper steering shaft. I would suggest that since your road wheels are pointing straight ahead when the steering gear flat on the input shaft is a t 12 o'clock, I would just assemble the steering wheel hub so that the steering wheel is straight. You may have to tweek the tie rods one last time to get everything perfect.

1969 thru 1976 T&T steering columns will all interchange between those years. There are two ways to check as to which year steering column that you have. The first would be the easiest but also the least likely to have survived 42 years. There should be a sticker on top of the steering column jacket down under the dash about 6 3/4 inches up from the metal toe plate on the column. If it is a 1970 column the sticker would have CV 7811526. The CV alpha code remained the same through the years, the part number changed almost every year.

In the same general location but this time on the underside of the steering column jacket there should be a series of numbers and letters that were roll stamped on the tube when the steering column was assembled The code was as follows: 000 X Y Where 000 was the day of the year (001 through 365) must be a three digit number; X is the shift designation (A, B, or C); Y last digit of the year (0 for 1970).

Jim

[Wolf S.]

Re: steering wheel/hub and more

hi jim,
thanks very much for the informative write up.

if i understand correctly, the horn contact spring first coil closest to the steering column (opposite the steering wheel) goes under the toothed plastic washer and touches the three small metal tabs on another plastic piece. the toothed washer holds the first coil on to the tabs.

i finally fitted/centered the steering wheel. but there is a lot of play -- more than an 1" -- toward the left or right before the steering
is engaged.

i suppose the steering box has to be rebuilt. i can't adjust it anymore
as the center screw head is level with the blocking nut!


i noticed one thing. the blinker cancelling is off. is there a way to
adjust this? turning left cancels better that turning right!

happy new year 2013

[Edward J.]

Re: steering wheel/hub and more

Wolf, sound s like you don't have the total alignement of the steering componets. if you have a shop manuel it should spell it out. the corvette steering box has to on center, other wise the box will have play If to the right or left of center. On the steering box shaft tip there is a stamped alignement mark, When the front tires are dead straight ahead this stamped mark should be at 12 oclock. you maybe want to check this but will require the removel of the steering coupling. Once this is set the flex coupling is the next step,the split (or opening) in the front of the coupling then should align. with the stamp mark on the steering shaft end. From there the front of the coupling should just slide into the flat on the front pinch bolt. and then put steering wheel to center.


Hope I did not confuse you. Jim S. correct me if I am wrong. Or can explain it better.

Wolf wanted to add about the directional canceling. if the steering wheel is not centered correct ,Canceling of the directioanal will be off on one side or the other.

Also the steering box adjustement, if you have it turned to far in you will find the steering will not return after taking a cornor. and will have a oversteer condition.

[Wolf S.]

Re: steering wheel/hub and more

hi,
my steering is centered.
the flat on the sterring box in shaft is at 12 o'clock. the pinch bolt is in a vertical position.
the flat at the end of the steering column shaft is also at 12 o'clock. the pinch bolt is in a horizontal position (9 to 3).
the position of the different elements--steering box, coupleur/rag joint, column shaft--are as in the photo found in jim's doc "steering wheel & steering system centering procedure.
i'll post a photo of mine tomorrow.

happy new year 2013

[Edward J.]

Re: steering wheel/hub and more

Wolf, Keep in mind that if all is centered that the front wheels may not be quite straight ahead. since you have tampered with all that been done prior to. the front alignement may have been done, which now may not have the wheels pointing straight ahead. Again if so, This will have center steering feel off because the wheels are not quite straight ahead.

[Wolf S.]

Re: steering wheel/hub and more

i still have to set the toe up front and at the rear. camber/caster front and rear camber have been done.

[Jim S.]

Re: steering wheel/hub and more

If everything from the steering column shaft to the steering gear are centered and the front wheels are pointed straight down the road, now move the steering wheel hub so that the indentation on the end of the steering column shaft and the indentation on the steering wheel hub are aligned. That should center your turn signal cancelling and the steering wheel should be able to be attached with the lower spoke at 6 o'clock. If things need to be tweeked a small amount, do it with the tie rods.

It is possible to misassemble the steering column so that things might be 180 degrees out (steering wheel upside down). But not 90 degrees, 45 degrees, etc.
Jim

[Terry M.]

Re: steering wheel/hub and more

i still have to set the toe up front and at the rear. camber/caster front and rear camber have been done.

Without respect to your steering gear alignment issues, there is a proper procedure for a four wheel alignment. In general the rear (caster, Camber if possible, and toe) is set first. Then the front Caster, Camber and toe in that order. You should have the rear camber and toe set before you make any front adjustments. If you don't know where the rear tires are at how can you accurately adjust the front?

[John H.]

Re: steering wheel/hub and more

If everything from the steering column shaft to the steering gear are centered and the front wheels are pointed straight down the road, now move the steering wheel hub so that the indentation on the end of the steering column shaft and the indentation on the steering wheel hub are aligned. That should center your turn signal cancelling and the steering wheel should be able to be attached with the lower spoke at 6 o'clock. If things need to be tweeked a small amount, do it with the tie rods.

Jim & Wolf -

That's exactly how the car was built originally - the coupler came indexed to the steering gear input shaft from Saginaw, the bottom end of the steering column shaft was indexed to the coupler, and the chisel mark on the steering wheel hub was aligned to the chisel mark on the top end of the steering shaft. Then the steering wheel was held level with a fixture that attached to the door when the car was in the toe-in pit, and the final adjustment was made to the tie rods to get the front tires pointed straight down the road and the toe-in set to spec. That process also ensured equal turn signal cancelling positions on both sides of center. Don't try to correct it by re-positioning the steering wheel hub on the shaft splines - that's a Bubba fix, which causes unequal turn signal cancelling action.

[Wolf S.]

Re: steering wheel/hub and more

here's a quick photo with everything centered on my steering.
(non original rag joint is a temporary fix)

i'll get back when the alignement has be done.

[Gary R.]

Re: steering wheel/hub and more

Hi Wolf,
I can see in your pictures and by your comments the box is worn out. The fact the lash screw is buried in the cover past the lash nut indicates there is no more adjustment left in the gears. You need new gears and a rebuild.

[Wolf S.]

Re: steering wheel/hub and more

Hi Wolf,
I can see in your pictures and by your comments the box is worn out. The fact the lash screw is buried in the cover past the lash nut indicates there is no more adjustment left in the gears. You need new gears and a rebuild.

that's what i thought.
so, the box definitely will have to be rebuilt!