I recently had a fuel anti syphoning solenoid installed on my 63 FI unit. A tag was on the wire that said to connect it to the constant 12 volt side of the ballast resistor. My question is which side is the constant 12 volt side? Is it the side with 2 pink wires or the side with 1 pink wire? I put a test light on it and both sides light up with the engine running. Both sides light up with the key on but not running no matter if the points are open or closed. Any information regarding this would be appreciated.
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Re: Ballast Resistor
I believe if you turn on the key and measure the voltage at both ends of the ballast resistor you will find one side is 12 volts and the other is less then that reading. You need to power your anti siphon selonoid from the 12 volt side.
I tink the 2 pink wires are the 12 volt side, but test it to be sure. -
Re: Ballast Resistor
You definitely want to be on the full 12 volt side. Many years ago I know someone that connected their wipers to the low voltage side of their ballast resister on their 1960. The engine would die when the wipers were turned on. Boy was I dumb, I mean someone I know was dumb. Good luck, Don H.Comment
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Re: Ballast Resistor
The single Pink is constant 12V from the ignition switch. This wire may be seen coming from the grommet at the firewall.
The double Pink is the output(low voltage side) of the ballast. One goes to the coil+, the other to the R terminal on the starter solenoid which applies 12V to coil+ only when cranking.Comment
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Re: Ballast Resistor
Perry,
I am not fond of test lights because of this sort of situation. I would recommend getting a Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) to help you troubleshoot in the future. I think you can get a cheap one at the hardware store (maybe auto parts store or Wally Mart). I prefer the Fluke 87, but it is not what I would call cheap (about $400.00).
JoeComment
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Re: Ballast Resistor
Thanks guys. I'm glad I asked because I have it connected wrong at this time. I will change it tonight. You're right about the test light. It seemed to glow just as bright no matter which post I connected it to. I am looking at purchasing a Power Probe III soon.Comment
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Re: Ballast Resistor
Perry, you can pick a multimeter that will serve any of your purposes at Harbour Freight or Northern Tool. H-F usually sells these on sale for under $10. In the picture below, I use my analog tester most. Just my preference.
Paul
IMG_0882.jpgComment
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Re: Ballast Resistor
Now I am totally confused. I have a single pink wire attached to the upper position of my ballast resistor and two pink wires attached to the lower one. What confuses me is that the wire going through the grommet in the firewall and to the ignition switch is attached to the lower position along with one wire that is going to the coil or starter. The single pink wire from the upper position is also going to the coil or starter. This is the way it's been since I bought the car in 1980. Can someone please post a picture of their ballast resistor so I can see the orintation of the wires installed correctly? Thanks for all your help. Please see my other post for help figuring out why my signals won't flash.
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Re: Ballast Resistor
Perry,
It appears yours is wired wrong. I think you need to trace each wire to see exactly where they go. "coil or starter" isn't clear enough. Look at the enclosed wiring diagram and you'll see on page 2 how it should be wired. Note it shows 2 wires at coil+, which is electrically the same as if there are those same 2 wires at the ballast resistor. i.e. the Pink coming from the Solenoid R terminal can connect either to coil+ or Ballast output. The single Pink from the ignition switch MUST be to other side of the ballast, i.e. the input side.
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Re: Ballast Resistor
Perry,
I don't remember if the 2nd pink wire for 12V starting is picked up at the ballast resistor or at the pos primary terminal of the coil. (I thought it was at the coil) If at the ballast resistor, that terminal should show around 7 volts when the engine is running.
The other ballast resistor terminal should show 12 volts any time the key is in the on/run position.
During cranking, the 2nd wire and terminal on the resistor should show somewhere around 12 volts, or a bit less.Comment
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Re: Ballast Resistor
Perry -
Photo below is a '67, but the '63 is the same. The pink wire coming through the firewall grommet with the wiper motor wires is from the ignition switch (full 12 volts), and it connects to the bottom terminal on the ballast resistor (input side). The other pink wire that connects to the top terminal on the resistor (output side) is in the engine harness, and the end of that wire connects to the coil (+) terminal, along with a second pink wire that runs from the coil to the "R" terminal on the starter solenoid (provides a full 12 volts when cranking). Your fuel injection anti-siphon solenoid wire should be connected to the bottom terminal on the resistor (full 12 volts with the ignition key "on").
67Resistor.JPGComment
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Re: Ballast Resistor
Thanks everyone and for the picture John. The mystery is solved. I had two wires attached to the upper terminal of my ballast resistor. Why? Well it turns out, after I removed the distributor shielding, that the second pink wire was connected to the Pertronix II that I installed years ago. It was connected to the upper voltage terminal which was wrong , so I corrected that. Now I will have more voltage to the distributor. All these years it was connected wrong but it still ran great with lots of power.Comment
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Re: Ballast Resistor
Perry,
The Pertronix II requires full 12 volts to the module inside the distributor.
If using a coil requiring a external ballast(Fig 3 below), then the ballast of course must be there and wired from it's output to coil+, then to the R terminal on the solenoid.
(edit......I misunderstood your last explanation so it seems you had it wrong originally(not 12v to Pertronix), and now corrected.
pertronix-10.jpgComment
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